Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Bear #20R on October 29, 2008, 09:16:00 PM
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Here is a red oak bow I built for a friend.
(http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr311/umpmod20r/102_0223.jpg)
(http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr311/umpmod20r/102_0221.jpg)
(http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr311/umpmod20r/102_0220.jpg)
Rawhide backed 32@28 it is 70 ntn. There are no overlays in the pic but I put layered leather superglue ones on. It is smooth drawing and alright shooting. It definately doesn't have the cast of a glass bow but I am happy with how it shoots. It will be a good bow for a friend who has never shot trad before.
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I mat be wrong on this, but the upper limb looks way to stiff. I can see that the upper limb is longer and it could be the pic.
Can you post unbraced & full draw pic's?
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The full draw pic is more important when sizing up the tiller. Everything looks OK at brace to me although the upper limb looks quite a bit longer than the bottom. That's not necessarily a problem if that is what was intended and the bow is balanced. The Japanese Yumi bows have top limbs twice as long as the bottom limb. Pat
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I like it. I'm building one now but I have torn a tendon in my elbow so I will not finish anytime soon. Looks good to me, keep it up!
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It's just the angle the picture is taken and the lighting the tiller is even at brace for three under and balances in the hand pretty well the bow is very nice to shoot in the hand. The limbs are actually the same length. I'll try to get some outside in better lighting and angle after the finish dries. I used the torges method of keeping an "identity" card on the bow and after about 1000-1500 shots the profile hasn't changed or taken more than the set I had in it after tillering. I also used a couple of different length boards to check the bend while bending a six inch and a four inch. I want to make the tillering device that uses the pencil I just need to make time next time I'm home. The only real problem with the bow is the boards grain turned at the end and the ends have twist but luckily the twist is opposite and the string still runs through the handle. I will get a full draw pic when I give it to my friend this weekend as I don't have anyone to take the pic.
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(http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr311/umpmod20r/102_0225.jpg)
(http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr311/umpmod20r/102_0224.jpg)
He shot the bow 6 or 7 times and this crack developed. :( I didn't let him take the bow. Is it saveable if I wrap the crack with rawhide or is it firewood?
(http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr311/umpmod20r/102_0243.jpg)
(http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr311/umpmod20r/102_0244.jpg)
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Bear, congratulations on your bow. It needed more bending close to the handle. As it is all the bending is taking place at mid limb. It looks like that's where the crack developed. My site has info. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/
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Could I syringe some super glue in to the crack and then wrap it with rawhide as more insurance or is it just going to fail.
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Yes you can try that. I've also wrapped such cracks with silk fabric set in glue. Then wound some artificial sinew or serving thread around it. Set that in glue too. Wrap the corresponding area of the other limb with the thread to as a decoration. Then, I suggest you fix the tiller for safety. Jawge
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Thanks for your help I will wrap it with rawhide and then get the fades bending more before I give it to my friend.
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Welcome. The area past the fades should bend. Not the fades. How big is your non bending handle area. What is your friend draw and how long and wide is the bow? Jawge
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The bow is 70 ntn and 2 inches wide at the fades. He has a 27 inch draw. And I meant after the fades but closer in.
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Good show, Bear! Sounds good. Jawge