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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: rascal on September 10, 2008, 10:40:00 PM
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Hey all, I recently finished up my first self bow. Against popular advice I started with a nice Yew stave and probably despite some of my efforts Iv managed to turn it into a nice looking bow that shoots quite well IMO.
Here is some back ground info on the bow:
Tip to tip = 73" (unstrung)
Nock to nock = 71 3/4" (unstrung) 68" (strung)
Handle = 4" (12" non bending)
Fades = 4"
Flares = 1 3/16"
Tips = 5/8"
Brace = Currently at 7 5/8"
Weight = 40# @ 28"
Now for my questions, my original intention was to get this bow closer to 50# @ 28", any recomendations on how to raise my #?
I know I can cut the bow down by an inch on each end and gain some (3# per inch?) but is that per inch I cut off (as in 3# for the inch off the top limb and 3# for the inch off the bottom limb) or 3# total for trimming an inch off each end?
I also have heard that sinew backing the bow will add to the weight of the bow although I havent really heard solid numbers to go with that, anyone know what might be achieved by using sinew? I have plenty of dried sinew saved up from last years deer.
To tell the truth Im pretty happy with the way the bow feels, looks and shoots right now but I really feel I need to get the draw weight up nearer to 50 for my own satisfaction. Im leaning toward sinew if it will give noticeable results versus changing the length of the bow.
Also just so I have an idea can anyone tell me where I might start with my brace on a bow like this? I figured it was a safe bet at 7"-8", Ive tried working on the initial set up but honestly I cant seem to find a spot in the brace that feels or sounds any better or worse when I increase or decrease the brace. Maybe Im just not paying close enough attention.
As always thank you in advance for any help you might offer.
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I believe your brace height is a bit high. I use my fistmele(closed hand with thumb extended up between the belly of the handle to the string...about 5 1/2"-6 1/2").
You don't want to use sinew on a bow that long. Sinew and hide glue weigh more than wood so it will slow your long bow down. Sinew is best used on a short highly stressed bow.
As was suggested on another thread, add string nocks 1" below the string nock on your bow and see how much weight you increase. If not enough go a bit lower. Once you find the weight you are shooting for, check the tiller again and reshape the tips to suit. At 73"t/t you have a lot of wood that you could loose. Also you could bring the working portion of each limb closer to the handle to get more working limb and will reduce the stress on the shorter(relatively) bow. Reduce your tip width to decrease tip weight. Keep them thick for strength.
You have plenty of wood in your bow to reach 50# or even 60# with a bit of reworking. Pics will help us guide you along. Pat
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I dont think I will be able to modify the working portion of the limbs actually, I had to work around a trouble spot in the stave and that is partially why such a long handle. Thanks for the advice on the sinew, at least knowing its not a good option narrows my choices.
Seems like the best/only choice is gonna be to shorten the bow if I want more poundage. I will have to mess around with that concept a little and see what I can manage.
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Can you post pics of your bow. Braced, unbraced and full draw would be nice to see. Maybe we could come up with some other options for you. Pat
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Rascal, sounds like you have a nice bow there, and yes you can shorten it to get the # to where you want. But hey, what's wrong with making another one-you can't have too many you know! LOL!! Spec out that 50# and get to it!
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Couldnt agree with you more Bjorn, Ive been wrestling with that very concept myself. I dont want to ruin my first bow by attempting to modify it after the fact so Im a little hesitant to start lopping off inches if you know what I mean.
Ill endeavor to get some pics up when I get the chance guys.
Again I am grateful for all the help here!
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Take PAT'S advice.He has the right idiea.