Trad Gang
Main Boards => Hunting Knives and Crafters => Topic started by: D.Ellis on June 20, 2014, 12:02:00 AM
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Here's the next installment. I'll be showing the way I do one style of guard and spacer as well as the coffin handle and probably some checkering and carving along the way. This is the way I do it, not the only way, and in some cases other smiths may have far superior methods than I do. Anyone with ideas or tips to contribute please feel free. :readit: not too much else is needed to make this guard. I will be using a rotary tool later on(for texturing) but that is not required.
Here's the bar of steel, and a scribe for marking lines. You can see the tang of the blade and I am holding a drill bit shank over it to determine the correct size to drill the holes.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190401_zps23b8cb10.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190401_zps23b8cb10.jpg.html)
In this pic you can see a few of the files I use. At the very least you will need a couple of sizes of round chainsaw files, a large flat file double cut on one side and single cut on the other, and a small square needle file or auger file(more about this one later). Needs to be small enough to get inside the holes to square them up. I also use a coarse half round file and a round, course rattail file a lot for shaping and contouring.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190408_zps40c8ee34.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190408_zps40c8ee34.jpg.html)
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In that last pic there is a slotted wooden stick. I use that for tapping the guard onto the tang. More on that later.
Here I am laying out where the slot for the tang needs to be in the guard. This guard will be blade centered. In other words the distance from the top of the guard to the spine will be the same as the distance from the top of the guard to the edge, not to the bottom of the ricasso. See arrows in photo.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190402_zps734fba06.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190402_zps734fba06.jpg.html)
After laying out where the slot needs to be, I determine how many holes I can fit with the drill bit(slightly smaller diameter than the tang thickness) without the holes overlapping. In this case 4 holes. If you are using a hand drill measure very carefully and center punch for each hole. I didn't get the punch marks perfect, and it caused a goof up. The drill bit was narrow enough that it didn't cause me any grief though.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190403_zpse285a292.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190403_zpse285a292.jpg.html)
Here's the goof up. Worked out OK anyway. There should have been a web between those two overlapping holes, but the combination of poorly placed center punch mark, and a very dull drill bit caused the bit to wander.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190404_zps0d446c31.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190404_zps0d446c31.jpg.html)
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After drilling the holes, the web between needs to be filed away with a suitable sized round file. Open it up until you can get a flat file in there. In this case I am using an auger file. It has teeth on the flats at one end, and teeth on the edge at the other end. Also, it's tapered to fit in a fairly small slot. Very handy file for squaring up the corners of the slot. If you can't find one of these, small flat or square needle files will work also.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190405_zps86d38920.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190405_zps86d38920.jpg.html)
Continue to open the slot up until the tang will fit in the slot. The tang is tapered so the guard will only go on a short distance at first. Just keep filing and checking and try to keep the slot sides as flat and square as possible.
Here is a view from the top. I am now using a 6 inch flat file with teeth all around to enlarge the slot more. The hole in the guard should be tapered so it is larger in the back than the front. This helps to get a nice tight looking joint. Guys with mills often mill a larger slot in the backside of the guard........this is the same effect. Makes it easier to get the guard fitting tight and square.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190406_zps167a6201.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190406_zps167a6201.jpg.html)
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Here you can see I am getting close to the shoulders of the tang.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190407_zps6813067a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190407_zps6813067a.jpg.html)
At this point I make sure the shoulders are as true and square as possible with the blade. I use a round file for this. Don't want any sharp corners here. I also bevel the edges of the tang a little bit. If you have a file guide to help here that's great. I just use my eyeball and then check it with a machinist square when I get things really close to seated.
Now I'll take my slotted stick and tap the guard towards the shoulders lightly. Don't whomp it too hard or it'll stick on really tight. If this happens, just use the slotted stick to tap the guard back off again........and don't hit so hard next time. :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190409_zps04c19520.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190409_zps04c19520.jpg.html)
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After I remove the guard from the tang I look inside the slot to see where it is too tight. This will show up as rubbed and dented spots. See red arrows pointing where things are too snug.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190410_zps9972503b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190410_zps9972503b.jpg.html)
I use the auger file and round this over gently......the goal is to have this shape match the shoulder of the tang. It should be a tight fit.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190411_zps652ceb26.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190411_zps652ceb26.jpg.html)
Tap it back on and see where it gets to.
getting closer.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190412_zps2030dfbc.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190412_zps2030dfbc.jpg.html)
Take it off and check for tight spots.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190413_zps1e3b0710.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190413_zps1e3b0710.jpg.html)
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A few more tries, including filing the shoulders a bit to get the fit closer, and we end up here.
It is a snug fit to get here, can't push it on with my fingers, it still needs to be tapped into place with the slotted stick.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190414_zps1e4b129d.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190414_zps1e4b129d.jpg.html)
Checking for square. I check for square from the side as well as the top.
So far so good, but this sure is an ugly guard!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190415_zpse4996599.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190415_zpse4996599.jpg.html)
Let's do something about that.
I have an idea what I want it to look like, so I make a cardboard cut out the shape I want.....notched so it fits over the blade and spine/ricasso. I scribe(and here I also used felt pen so it's easier to see in the photo) around the shape, and then repeat all the way around.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190416_zps5f636ee5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190416_zps5f636ee5.jpg.html)
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Take the guard off, back in the vice(padded with leather) and break out the hacksaw.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190417_zpsc7c56bbb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190417_zpsc7c56bbb.jpg.html)
And files. It goes much faster if you file the one side to your line (see pic below) and then the other side to match......and finally bring the center down to meet the bevels.
Another filing tip. A file is meant to cut on the push stroke, and a lot of guys will tell you to only file that way. That's good advice, but if you lift the file at the end of each stroke it will clog up and all the grit in the teeth will scratch deep grooves in the piece you are working on.
Instead reduce the pressure, but keep the file in contact with the work and pull it back towards you for the next cut. This keeps the teeth much cleaner and you'll get a lot more cutting done than if you have to stop and clean the teeth with a brush every three strokes. And you'll have a lot fewer nasty gouges to try and smooth out later.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190418_zpsbe36e04e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190418_zpsbe36e04e.jpg.html)
Filed to the lines in profile.......drift it back on and check for center and balance.
Looking a bit better.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190419_zpsfbb43dce.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190419_zpsfbb43dce.jpg.html)
This one is going to be s shaped a bit, so after making adjustments to the profile to get it lined up just right, I take it off again and put it back in the vice. Padded on the inside of the curve with a hardwood or brass block......outside with leather. I do this shaping cold. If I needed to make a more drastic curve, I'd probably just forge the thing to shape instead of doing all that filing. It takes a fair bit of force to curve the guard, I am using a 12 inch crescent wrench for leverage......note the copper shim(penny) on the underside of the wrench jaw. This keeps the sharp jaw from biting an unsightly deep notch in the guard.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190420_zps27baea95.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190420_zps27baea95.jpg.html)
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Checking to make sure things still fit.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190421_zps297dc0bb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190421_zps297dc0bb.jpg.html)
Take guard back off and make any further adjustments.......then I file the edges and contours until there are no uncomfortable spots that contact my hand. I never took any pics of the contouring, but it was pretty simple.....just filing away anything that shouldn't be there and smoothing the shape.
Tap it back on.......not too bad.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190422_zps7d61c9fa.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190422_zps7d61c9fa.jpg.html)
Nice and comfortable......
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6190423_zpsb160f187.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6190423_zpsb160f187.jpg.html)
Time to move on to the spacer and handle......we will return to the guard later to spiffy it up.
That's all for tonight......soon we'll be cutting mammoth ivory :cool:
Darcy :campfire:
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Great tutorial Darcy, this is going to help me out a lot!
Thanks for taking the time to do this!
:thumbsup:
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very nice tutorial, Darcy. Watching with interest.
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Nicely done tutorial. That guard will suit the knife well. (I like those curves.)
You said, "Anyone with ideas or tips to contribute please feel free."
This may help some. With a few knives under my belt, I've come to where I nearly never drill my hole - any hole - with the drill bit size I want to have first thing.
I work my way up.
When your dull drill bit wandered on your guard slot, it may have been minimized by drilling your punched dots with a smaller drill bit first.
For most holes, I drill a small one for center.
A second hole just undersized of my target hole dimension.
And then the final drill bit.
Saves agony some times.
Always stack the deck in your favor.
And I see you mentioned coffin handle?
This is going to be a sweet knife.
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Nice work Darcy. I enjoy these times on TG.
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Awesome tutorial... I really like your style! Also really appreciate the detailed tips. :thumbsup:
This maybe a little off topic for this thread, but which is the best low-tech tool for cutting out blades from blade steel... hacksaw or jeweler's saw?
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I love getting to follow along like this. Thanks for taking the time to post this up.
:campfire:
Jeremy
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Darcy this is exactly what i need to see done.Thanks for posting again.I been trying to build a guard and it hasn't turned out yet. This will help, Thanks!
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Not trying to be a sa David but beyond a doubt the best way is a hot fire, hammer and anvil...
Darcy, you ever use a mirror to confirm alignment of everything?
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Originally posted by Doug Campbell:
Not trying to be a sa David but beyond a doubt the best way is a hot fire, hammer and anvil...
I know, I know. That's what I plan to work towards, but I've got to start somewhere! :) I got a weekend pass to go to the Mid America hammer-in (late August), so we'll see what happens after that… who knows, maybe I'll come home with an anvil and forge! :bigsmyl:
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Darcy has artistic freedom on this knife and so far so good! The only thing I did was describe the blade profile I am looking for and emailed a ROUGH drawing of the handle shape I wanted. I truly appreciate all the hand, not machine, work on the knife. Makes things more personal. Changing raw steel to functional art is amazing to us who can't do it. Thanks Darcy.
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It would be nice to have a mill and the skills to make each piece to +- 1/10,000, right to plan. A lot of us don't have a mill and are not machinists.
For me, it's like this build-along. File; check the fit. File; check the fit, until you get that nice, light-tight fit.
I'll bet this knife is going to be a real knockout and I'm looking forward to seeing it take shape.
Thanks for taking the time to do this, Darcy.
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I have to admit Darcy I am a little shocked at the simple tools. I know your hands are skilled and experienced but still this is rather enlightening... Thank you for taking the time to post, this is great stuff. :campfire:
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This is sure an awesome build we get to sit in on. What you can teach yourself in decades of work can be learned in a day.
Todd
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Originally posted by NittanyRider:
Originally posted by Doug Campbell:
Not trying to be a sa David but beyond a doubt the best way is a hot fire, hammer and anvil...
I know, I know. That's what I plan to work towards, but I've got to start somewhere! :) I got a weekend pass to go to the Mid America hammer-in (late August), so we'll see what happens after that… who knows, maybe I'll come home with an anvil and forge! :bigsmyl: [/b]
Funny Doug, that's almost word for word what I was going to say as well. :D That said, with a hacksaw and files you can do a lot even if you can't have a forge. Like if you happen to live in a 4th floor apartment or something like that. A decent bench vise clamped to a sturdy table and some hand tools and you can still make a knife.
Thanks Karl for the added tips.
OK, today was a pretty long day, but not a huge amount of new info to add........
Started on the spacer. I chose copper for this. Basically just a repeat of the guard work, with the difference being I file the slot without the taper. It doesn't matter if there is a slight gap at the front of the spacer since it will be hidden behind the guard. I also do not make it fit quite as tightly. The goal is tight enough to have zero play when it is resting against the guard, but not so snug that I have to drift it on.
A few photo's of the process.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6200424_zps722ecebd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6200424_zps722ecebd.jpg.html)
I skipped ahead further than I thought without taking pics, but like I said, it's just like we did on the guard, but not as tapered of slot.
Here it is home up against the guard. I scribe around the guard not because the spacer will be shaped like that, but just to give me some lines for reference when I file it to shape. I know I can giver with the files till I get to there, and then I have to slow down and think about it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6200425_zps3dc76a91.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6200425_zps3dc76a91.jpg.html)
Filed to shape.....I will probably tweak the guard profile a bit. The spacer needed to be this width to fit the ivory properly, so things will change as we go along.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6200426_zps35abe869.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6200426_zps35abe869.jpg.html)
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Now it's time to give Murphy his first opportunity (on this project) to really cost me some heartache(and money)..........it's time to fit the ivory. I am pretty careful to lay out exactly where the center hole needs to go. There is no second chance here.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6200427_zps7c53219a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6200427_zps7c53219a.jpg.html)
Also outlined where the edge of the handle needs to be to work around a few obstacles. The very center of the tusk has a gap around it, as well, there is a crack that needed to be taken into consideration. It will be gone in the final shaping.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6200428_zps29ac4b81.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6200428_zps29ac4b81.jpg.html)
I will be drilling half way thru from each end and hope to meet in the middle. Using the center lines to line up the drill bit. If you are using a hand drill, everything is the same except a bit more difficult to accomplish with accuracy. Practice on cheaper handle materials(or scrap) first to get the hang of it.
Take a deep breath and plunge that sucker in there(after triple checking for alignment)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6200429_zpscf42e4c4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6200429_zpscf42e4c4.jpg.html)
I don't try to drill this too far in one plunge or it will heat up, which is a bad deal with ivory, so I back the bit out and clear the chips several times to get to the halfway point. Actually I went about 2/3 of the way thru from this end. then flipped it over, lined up with my marks again, and drilled until I met the first hole. Here's the result. Almost perfectly aligned........WHEW! :D I am holding the block at a bit of an angle to the lens, there is a tiny step over where the holes met that might be .010" at the most. It'll be gone by the time I scrape this out for the tang to fit.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6200430_zps5b79bfed.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6200430_zps5b79bfed.jpg.html)
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Here're the tools I use to open this up. A home made broach(scraper) and a coarse file.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6200431_zpsdb614a4d.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6200431_zpsdb614a4d.jpg.html)
The broach really makes this job go faster, but I have done it all with files and a small wood working chisel in the past, and it works fine, just takes longer.
The goal is to have the handle block fit snug with no play just as it seats against the spacer. Once the tang starts to fit inside the hole, it's just a matter of looking there to see where the tang is rubbing tight and remove a bit of material where you see the contact is being made. I had no luck taking photo's of this, but if you look at the inside of the hole, and also on the tang you should be able to see where it is too tight. Sometimes coloring the tang with felt pen will help to highlight exactly where things are snug.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6200432_zpsefd25db0.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6200432_zpsefd25db0.jpg.html)
Progress.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6200433_zps485af189.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6200433_zps485af189.jpg.html)
I got to here and realized I wanted to add to the spacer or the handle was going to end up just a bit too short. I should have figured this out earlier, but............ :rolleyes:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6200434_zps41f85eb5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6200434_zps41f85eb5.jpg.html)
So I decided to add another 1/4 inch copper spacer with a thin nickel silver spacer in between. I pinned these all together with 1/16 inch pins......I'll show a pic of that later as I was getting tired and neglected to take pics of that.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6200435_zpsafbb16c1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6200435_zpsafbb16c1.jpg.html)
And after shaping them together.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6200436_zps0e4d3cf8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6200436_zps0e4d3cf8.jpg.html)
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Originally posted by killinstuff:
Darcy has artistic freedom on this knife and so far so good! The only thing I did was describe the blade profile I am looking for and emailed a ROUGH drawing of the handle shape I wanted. I truly appreciate all the hand, not machine, work on the knife. Makes things more personal. Changing raw steel to functional art is amazing to us who can't do it. Thanks Darcy.
Thanks for checking in CJ, not too many more days now.
Thanks everyone for following along.
Darcy :campfire:
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Originally posted by Doug Campbell:
Darcy, you ever use a mirror to confirm alignment of everything?
I have not tried that yet, but I have heard about it. Do you use that method? I am not 100% sure how to go about it, just have a rough idea.
Darcy :campfire:
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A mirror is one of the handiest tools in my shop for checking alignment and straightness Darcy. I'll try and get a couple pics up in the next day or two.
I've found it helpful when drilling a handle to scribe the tang profile on the outside of the handle stock also. Just another way to visually check things out.
Great job on the tutorial by the way.
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This is a very nice "fit up" tutorial. I especially like the planning you explain in locating the hole. All flaws, cracks, etc. have to be considered. In fact every situation could be so different that the maker has to take each case as a new experience. You have to be flexible to work with these natural materials.
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This is looking good. I'm picking up some good tips too. I personally am glad the ivory was too short. I love the look of contrasting metals stacked to make a spacer. I saw a dog bone bowie a while back that had a very similar gaurd/spacer setup, just with different materials. It was a SS gaurd and two 3/16-1/4" blued spacers with maybe .03" SS stacked between. Looked great on the dog bone and should look great with a coffin handle.
Matt
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Greatness! Thanks for doing such a great job at showing us your craft on both threads.
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Thanks guys.
Last pics until Monday most likely.
Here's the one showing the alignment pins keeping the pieces of the spacer together.......self explanatory I think.
Definitely need to put that guard on a diet before this is all done.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6210437_zps499ce9a5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6210437_zps499ce9a5.jpg.html)
Here's a shot of the pommel nut. Still rough from the lathe, but ready to hold things tight for assembly. There'll probably be a copper spacer/washer around it later.
You can also see the pencil mark where I need to take some ivory off to balance out the sides.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6210438_zps7117133c.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6210438_zps7117133c.jpg.html)
I use a hoof rasp(the fine side) to take the ivory down to the line.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6210439_zps6b72783b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6210439_zps6b72783b.jpg.html)
Mostly trued up.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6210440_zpsa601d7a5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6210440_zpsa601d7a5.jpg.html)
Now I make a cardboard stencil to mark out the profile of the coffin. Only half of the handle, so when you flip it over to do the other half they match exactly.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6210441_zps78e5b4e6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6210441_zps78e5b4e6.jpg.html)
Roughed out with the rasp and hacksaw.......
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6210442_zps65051a75.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6210442_zps65051a75.jpg.html)
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I was going to do some engraving on the spacer, but couldn't make up my mind what to cut that would look right, so decided to flute the copper............
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6210444_zps5f1e3257.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6210444_zps5f1e3257.jpg.html)
and coin edge the nickel silver. That's a 32 lines per inch metal checkering file if memory serves me.
Yes, there is one extra hole in the copper that I didn't need. Broke a 1/16" drill bit. Tip of the day. When drilling copper with small bits, use a cutting fluid. :banghead:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6210445_zpsce76269a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6210445_zpsce76269a.jpg.html)
Back together again, still rough, but I think it'll look OK.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6210446_zps153f6edb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6210446_zps153f6edb.jpg.html)
Did a bit more filing on the ivory, and then ran out of steam. Here's a peek at where I am now(notice my feet are up. :D I still need to narrow the waist on the coffin and lots of refining of the shape, but I just didn't have the energy to do any more. At this stage of the build, I need to have full concentration or I'll goof something up for sure, so further work needs to wait till I am fresh.
Sorry for being so brief in the last few pics, but it was really just mundane filing and shaping, so not much to see anyway. Next installment I'll make sure to take more photo's as we'll be doing the final handle contouring and polish, and then checkering, final finish on the fittings, and sooner or later, final assembly.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6210447_zpse47b8bb5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6210447_zpse47b8bb5.jpg.html)
See you soon. :campfire:
Darcy
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Wow! Very nice Darcy! :campfire:
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Excellent.
Guys, I see Darcy's maturity as a maker in this tutorial. He is not afraid of the mundane, boring parts of the project like using a rasp to remove the ivory or a file to shape the guard. He's allowing material for removal to the next stage of finishing. He is being patient and resting before a critical stage that will take concentration and steady hand.
This speaks of an individual that is confident in his abilities yet aware of his limitations. Combined with good materials and a little time, he can take a craft to a higher level.
As I see it these are things that are not taught in classes specifically, but are learned from practicing such things in all areas of life.
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This is fantastic. Thanks VERY much for taking all of the time to bring this to us. I especially identify with waiting until you have the energy to focus. I've been there and "pushed through" when I should've walked away. Thankfully, it wasn't anything like ivory ruined ;) . I have several of those rasps, but had no idea they were so effective on ivory, as well.
Learning a lot as you go, sir.
:campfire:
Jeremy
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Thanks very much for the kind words guys.
Jeremy, the fine side of a farriers rasp is good for quickly removing everything up to about the hardness of copper. It can also snag and tear and destroy a good piece of material much faster than ordinary files, but used judiciously, it's a great tool to speed up hand work.
I spent today helping my brother with a welding project for his motorbike and visiting with my 93 year old Grandmother........and I'm going bear stalking(as an observer) with a bowhunting buddy later this evening. He hasn't quite given up the wheels yet, but sooner or later :D
I should be relaxed and raring to go on this build again tomorrow.
Darcy :campfire:
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You sound like a guy I wish I lived closer to :thumbsup: . Looking forward to more and good luck with the bear hunting.
Jeremy
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I got in pretty late last night, actually pretty early this morning.......2:30 am when I got home. My buddy arrowed a 6 foot 2 blackie and it took a while to get things dealt with. I can't post a pic since he uses the wrong kind of bow. :D Fun watching him make the stalk.......got to within 30 yards before he shot......had all kinds of time to shoot from 50, and he can make that shot all day long, but chose to get closer to make things more sure. One of these days I'll talk him into taking his longbow out. :thumbsup:
Anyway, moving on to todays progress.
I laid out some more lines to get the handle finish shaped. Because this is a coffin handle and supposed to be symmetrical, it's important for me to dial in the main angles. One of the nice things about the human eye is we can see small differences between two halves of a symmetrical object. SO it's fairly easy to tell if it's not right. One of the bad things is the human eye can see small differences between the two halves of a symmetrical object.........so if it's not right, everybody will be able to tell :rolleyes: :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6230448_zps35003852.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6230448_zps35003852.jpg.html)
And then just a bunch more filing to get it shaped. Lots of stops to check it over from all angles.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6230449_zpsd4a98200.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6230449_zpsd4a98200.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6230450_zpsc4f6c22f.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6230450_zpsc4f6c22f.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6230451_zps1eb89d06.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6230451_zps1eb89d06.jpg.html)
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The coffin I make is a bit different from some. I like the sides to be nicely domed, especially if I plan, like in this case, to do any checkering. It is a comfortable and secure grip shape, and to my eye, is reminiscent of some of the early bowies shapes.
So, I got the handle filed as close as I wanted to take it with files. Then decided the guard was due for some attention........you may recall I vowed to put it on a weight loss program. Here I am marking around the spacer so I know how much to remove from the guard when I file it slimmer.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6230453_zpsb13a2742.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6230453_zpsb13a2742.jpg.html)
I then neglected to take any more pics of the guard slimming due to my sleep deprived state. :rolleyes:
But I did slim it up, as you can see here. And then I moved on to getting some of the file marks out of the handle.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6230454_zps3bfd54b9.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6230454_zps3bfd54b9.jpg.html)
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I like to use a scraper to remove the file marks before going on to sandpaper.......it is much faster, and way less dusty, you can use almost any sharp edged object to scrape......pocketknife, cabinet scraper etc. If the scraper starts to chatter try working in the other direction, or angle the scraper, and lighten the pressure........once the chatter starts it will just get worse, like washboard on a gravel road, so you have to deal with it before it gets too bad, or you'll have to sand it out.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6230457_zps1202de22.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6230457_zps1202de22.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6230458_zps27287d15.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6230458_zps27287d15.jpg.html)
you can see the nice long shavings being removed and the file marks right along with them.
After I got that done, I decided to finish the spacer and guard and leave the handle sanding to wait for a bit.
I sanded the copper spacers and then brushed them with a wire cup brush in the drill press.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6230455_zps0444f40a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6230455_zps0444f40a.jpg.html)
And then did some heat coloring. End results vary depending on how hot you get it, and if you cool it in water or air cool etc.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6230459_zpsc075bb8c.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6230459_zpsc075bb8c.jpg.html)
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Then I used the dremel tool with a carbide burr to texture the guard.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6230464_zpsd7deaa45.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6230464_zpsd7deaa45.jpg.html)
I decided to try something different, after lightly texturing the entire surface, I did a bunch of deeper grooves radiating out from the center of the guard.......
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6230465_zpsdd318a61.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6230465_zpsdd318a61.jpg.html)
After this I cold blue it and hand sand with 1500grit to highlight the texture.
You may notice I am not showing finished pics of the components........I am saving that for the final photo's........have to have some suspense in this thread after all :D
That was it for today. We are approaching the finish line. Tomorrow I plan to sand and polish the ivory, and do the checkering.......and then it'll be time for final assembly.......oh, and I almost forgot, I still need to do something with that pommel nut as well.
Darcy :campfire:
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All I can say is WOW! There's just so much information here it's just awesome! Thank you very much Darcy!!
The knife is looking amazing, too!!
Joel
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Lots of cool tricks in your bag Darcy! I'm excited to see some of the checkering get put down. There are lots of very interesting components to this blade, it's Ben fun watching you work.
:campfire:
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Really enjoy watching you put this one together.
Thanks for taking the time. :thumbsup:
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Thanks Darcy for doing these build alongs!
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This is awesome. I love the profile pics. An ivory handled knife is on my bucket list. I'm still a little scared to tackle it just now, but there looks to be some good advice here for when I finally do. Can't wait to see how this one comes out.
Matt
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Great walk through Darcy. A lot of info here.
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Darcy,
This is an exceptional tutorial. Thanks for taking time and taking us along for the ride.
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Thanks guys.
Did a bunch of hand sanding to get this ivory slicked up......time to scratch it up again.
It's been a while since I did any checkering, probably should have done 18 lines per inch instead of 22, since I was a bit out of practice, but what the heck, I do like a challenge. :knothead:
So first things first. I will be using Gunline brand checkering tools as well as 90* checkering needle files to point up the diamonds.
The basic tools from left to right.
-3 line tool used not to go faster, but to ride in 2 grooves and cut one........more accurate in theory than a 2 line.
-2 line tool........like the above, cuts one line and rides in one line.
- Needle file, for finishing the diamonds, taking grooves to depth.
- single line tool, for laying out the master lines and also for border work(which I am not doing here)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6240470_zps5a0157a4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6240470_zps5a0157a4.jpg.html)
I have used this same style of checkering before on a couple of coffin handles, and really like how it turns out. It is a borderless style, and easier to cut than one that has to stop within a border.
I took into account the angle of the diamonds when I shaped the handle, so the checkering master lines are parallel with the rear bevels of the coffin.
Here I have drawn in the starting lines..........these are critical as they set up the whole diamond pattern........
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6240469_zps41371c35.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6240469_zps41371c35.jpg.html)
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Cutting the master lines with the single line tool.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6240471_zps6cb850e0.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6240471_zps6cb850e0.jpg.html)
Then using the master lines as the foundation, start cutting more lines using the 2 and 3 line tools.......trying to stay on track..........
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6240476_zps0d4eb041.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6240476_zps0d4eb041.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6240472_zps2ff368e9.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6240472_zps2ff368e9.jpg.html)
more........a goof up there, should be able to erase that when the diamonds get pointed up.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6240473_zpsd61d0f19.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6240473_zpsd61d0f19.jpg.html)
Mostly done the layout here........flat topped diamonds and a few more stray lines to fix..............that was the story of the day for me........like I said, I was a bit out of practice. If the slip is too deep then it can usually be removed with light sanding and recut........there is a limit to how much you can fix this way without making it uneven......all the diamonds should be the same height and in nice even rows of identical width.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6240474_zps78feb597.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6240474_zps78feb597.jpg.html)
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time to point up the diamonds.........you want to do this a little at a time. If you try and take all the grooves that go the same direction to full depth you will erase the intersecting grooves and have nothing to follow.........so you have to do it in stages, each groove will be cut several times to reach full depth.
After a while I was really starting to get the hang of it again......I mean, I was really in the groove :rolleyes:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6240477_zpsd6c755ee.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6240477_zpsd6c755ee.jpg.html)
I did have to fix a few more slips along the way, but it turned out alright........not perfect, but not bad. Adds a bit of class in my opinion, and improves the grip for sure.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6240478_zps160c927c.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6240478_zps160c927c.jpg.html)
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A couple decent pics of the ivory before checkering........hard to get good photo's of the grain, but it's pretty cool looking stuff.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6240466_zps3593f079.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6240466_zps3593f079.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6240467_zps742ebcb9.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6240467_zps742ebcb9.jpg.html)
And one more close up of the checkering......there are 484 of those little diamonds in a square inch.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6240479_zpsb424ff07.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6240479_zpsb424ff07.jpg.html)
To be continued.........
Darcy :campfire:
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Great photos Darcy! I like the checkering a lot
:campfire:
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Nice work. I've done quite a few practice pieces, planning to checker a gun stock. Never could get the hang of it. Every time I thought I was going ok, I'd get one line that headed south and couldn't correct it. Had my gun stock checkered by a pro in the end.
That piece of work is far more complicated than it looks, and very well done.
I have to second the "great photos" too.
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Okay Darcy now yer showin out! :clapper:
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How easy is the ivory to work vs bone? I've got a pile of ivory nocks to make up and I wanted to check how soft it is before ordering it.
This is great work, and I need a set of checkering files after seeing this.
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Just seeing this project is giving me ideas Darcy. Great job. I have that same set of checkering tools.
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Great job, Darcy.
Not only does it take an incredible amount of time and attention to create such a cool knife, but I know exactly the demands of creating a decent build-along work-in-progress.
Thanks for taking us along.
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Originally posted by halfseminole:
How easy is the ivory to work vs bone? I've got a pile of ivory nocks to make up and I wanted to check how soft it is before ordering it.
This is great work, and I need a set of checkering files after seeing this.
I'd say they are pretty similar.....ivory is a bit more dense than bone, but not going to be a huge difference in workability.
Thanks guys.
Got her assembled today. I did take some pics of finishing the pommel nut, but then like a bone head, erased them by mistake :knothead: Description will have to suffice......I sanded/polished the sides and the groove, textured the end and heat colored it to a dark blue........and then cold blued the end and rubbed it back with 1500 grit to highlight the texture. You can see it(blurry) in the background of the next pic.
I always do a dry run before final assembly to make sure there are no unpleasant surprises when I add the epoxy. After inspection, I take it apart again, and clean all the surfaces well with alcohol.
I had a pic of all the pieces awaiting assemble, but it got erased too. :(
Anyway to seal the guard, remember it's a tight fit and has to be drifted on, so doesn't need any more strength, but as I do not want any moisture getting in there, I use JB weld to seal it with. A small bit on all the guard mating surfaces. The guard itself..........
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6250484_zpse1196867.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6250484_zpse1196867.jpg.html)
.......as well as the tang/shoulder area.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6250485_zps7bfc6034.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6250485_zps7bfc6034.jpg.html)
And then I drift the guard on with the slotted stick. Some JB has squeezed out. I wipe it clean on the spine and ricasso joints to make sure I have seated the guard fully. I know the joints along the flats will be tight if the shoulders are seated well, so I'll clean that off later.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6250486_zpsdc3bad43.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6250486_zpsdc3bad43.jpg.html)
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Then I sometimes use the JB for the rest of the assembly, and sometimes a different epoxy. This time I used an epoxy that dries more less clear. I didn't want any dark epoxy near the ivory.
I coat the inside of all the components as I install then, and make sure there is no bare steel showing on the tang.......the epoxy is mostly to seal out moisture so I am careful to be sure and get good coverage.
Then I put a bunch of epoxy inside the handle and press it on, and thread on the pommel nut, torqueing it down tightly........I had determined the orientation of the hole in the pommel nut during the dry run, and so I tighten it until it is squared up with the handle.
Epoxy will pretty much squeeze out everywhere.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6250487_zps10b8eed6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6250487_zps10b8eed6.jpg.html)
I clean this up with small strips of paper towel........wipe once and then discard the strip of paper.......otherwise you will smear epoxy back on again.
That's it for the assembly pics. I use an old toothbrush and a tiny bit of mineral oil to get the soft epoxy out of the coin edge grooves. I don't flood the thing with oil, as it may weaken the epoxy, just enough to get it clean. I have to babysit the knife for a while as the epoxy is under some pressure inside the handle and will continue to squeeze out anywhere it can. I just keep cleaning it off until it stops. Or sometimes I'll let it go for a while and then clean it off when it reaches the rubbery stage. The only trouble doing that is if you forget it, you'll have fully hardened epoxy where you don't want it...........I prefer to baby sit it since I have the tendency to forget things.
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And a few finished pics.........feels good to get this one done. Sheath to come in the next couple days.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6250488_zps2d025ee6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6250488_zps2d025ee6.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6250489_zpsbf600bb9.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6250489_zpsbf600bb9.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6250490_zpsaca45719.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6250490_zpsaca45719.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6250491_zpsf769ed67.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6250491_zpsf769ed67.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6250492_zps71f065e7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6250492_zps71f065e7.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6250493_zps937cdc0e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6250493_zps937cdc0e.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6250494_zpsef18849c.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6250494_zpsef18849c.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6250495_zps06b0b31f.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6250495_zps06b0b31f.jpg.html)
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One more close up of the blade finish.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P6250496_zps962d5fcf.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/45stomp/media/P6250496_zps962d5fcf.jpg.html)
Thanks for following along guys.
Darcy :campfire:
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It's beautiful! I really like it.
A lot. :campfire:
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Very nice, Thanks again for taking us along Darcy!
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The whole piece came together just right. I still can't get over the checkering. I see one little bobble in the whole pattern. You sure you didn't do some apprentice time with a stockmaker?
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What a beautiful knife.
Todd
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Awesome knife Darcy, it really came together in the end! Thanks for showing us so much of the process, that was really great.
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I have learned a bunch from this! So well done. Excellent execution throughout. Thanks!
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Thanks guys, it's much appreciated.
Darcy :campfire:
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That turned out great. Thanks for sharing.
Matt
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Hey Darcy - just wanted to say that for people like me who are just starting out, this thread has been really inspiring! Your skills and workmanship are amazing and your willingness to pass on your expertise free of charge and with no strings attached is rare trait these days. Many thanks, Darcy!! :notworthy:
David
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Originally posted by NittanyRider:
Hey Darcy - just wanted to say that for people like me who are just starting out, this thread has been really inspiring! Your skills and workmanship are amazing and your willingness to pass on your expertise free of charge and with no strings attached is rare trait these days. Many thanks, Darcy!! :notworthy:
David
Thanks for the kind words David. This is not about return on investment for me in the classic sense......... making things is just in my blood, and I'd be doing it even if there was no one in the world interested in my work.......but, it is a pleasure to be able to share what I am doing with folks who appreciate it.
I suppose that for me, knife making, and life in general, is about learning and experiencing as much as I can. Sharing with others enriches that experience. I have learned much from other guys here, and am happy to be able to provide a few tidbits of knowledge every now and then myself. :)
Darcy :campfire:
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Beautiful work Darcy!
I love every detail, of which there are many!
Steve
--------
Potomac Forge
Member, W.F. Moran Museum & Foundation
ABS AP
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Thanks again guys.
I was going to do a work in progress of the sheath for this, but I am running really short on time. I will do a sheath WIP when I get back to knife making again, but I am off guiding fishermen for a while, so I will not get back to it until august sometime. I did get the sheath done today(a few min ago), but didn't have the time to snap any pics.
Darcy :campfire:
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This thread has so many good bits and pieces to it. It reminds me of some of the other great build-a-longs from Lin and Karl. I wish there was a way to put a stickied folder or something with the fantastic threads like these. Thanks again for taking all of the time to do this. I believe it's the first time I've seen anyone document in a thread how to hand checker. And oddly enough, I was just looking at the tools and youtube videos of how to do that. I love this site.... :)
Jeremy
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Darcy sent me the pics before he split. I'm not much for posting pics but if someone wants to post them send me a PM with your email and I'll forward.
CJ
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Very great build along. So many little things that came together for a real outstanding blade.
Thanks for helping guys like me who love to build our own gear but a pretty lost in the details that make a difference.
RS
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That was great. very nice.
Gilbert
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(http://i.imgur.com/8Hf6yif.jpg)
Darcy sent this to CJ before he left... thanks guys!
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It's great! I really like this project.
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Oh wow. Talk about all fitting together nicely!
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I think this deserves pinned status, don't you guys?
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It's got my vote. :campfire:
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Got my vote here. Next thing is how he did the texturing on the sheath. -Jim-
Really impressed!!
www.shullhandforgedknives.com (http://www.shullhandforgedknives.com)
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Guess what I got in the mail today????
Darcy is horrible photographer because this knife looks a 100 times better in person. Feels great and pretty dang sharp, top and bottom.
Thanks Darcy!