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Main Boards => Hunting Knives and Crafters => Topic started by: tippit on February 22, 2011, 01:47:00 PM
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Assuming the blade has been normalized and thermocycled properly, what are the Pros & Cons (if any) to the position of the blade in quenching?
1) Quenching just the edge
2) Quenching the entire blade Horizontally
3) Quenching the entire blade Vertically
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Good question Jeff.
In my view, they each are options. It depends on what type of knife it will be, how big it is, what steel it is, etc.
I use primarily # 1 and 3. #2 is for very long knives or swords, although I am sure that it could be done to good effect on any knife.
The blade that I recently quenched with the hamon in the other thread, I full quenched, but covered the inside of the hamon area with clay before I quenched. So, I am saying that it depends on what the blade is for the effect I want or if I even want that effect.
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There was a lot of discussion on this on Blade several months ago. A long tank in which you can quench horizontally is considered optimal according to Cashen and others. If you quench vertically the knife is starting it's quench at the tip and there could be differential cooling as it goes in. At least I think that is what one of the issues is.
I now have a long, shallow tank... just like Karl's.
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Ive quinched horizontally for 15+ years, and typically quinch the entire blade. Sometimes I just edge quinch, just depends on what I want the end result to be.
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I do 1 and 3 I do this 3 times.
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Almost always quench horizontal, my tank is approx 24" long, 12" wide and 8" deep. I've made an adjustable height "platform" from expanded metal to control the depth when edge quenching. Just depends on the knife if it's edge quenched or full quenched...
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im a new comer but my local knife maker taught me his method of just the horizontal quench. and his knifes turn out knice so i have stuck with that. i guess the old saying if it aint broke, dont fix it.
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Like Lin alluded to, these three types of quenching are merely three aspects in a myriad of variables and combinations.
No mention is given to steel type, quenchant type, heat source and where/how that heat is directed to the steel, etc.
With proper control, you can austenize the working portion of the blade only and quench the entire blade and have the same result of an edge quench.
Or use clay to influence the result.
How MUCH heat? Shallow hardening steel or deep hardening steel?
I prefer to quench the entire blade horizontally for the preservation of the oil.
How much of that blade I austenize or influence with clay or time varies from blade to blade and use to use.