Here's a few pictures of the latest batch of toothpick neck knives and sheaths I finished up. Two have bison horn scales while the other has quilted maple. All three are made with 1084. Thanks for looking.
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Knives%20and%20Metalwork/HPIM4533.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Knives%20and%20Metalwork/HPIM4538.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Knives%20and%20Metalwork/HPIM4537.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Knives%20and%20Metalwork/HPIM4543.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Knives%20and%20Metalwork/HPIM4545.jpg)
those are very cool....
Are you soaking your blades in acid to dissolve your scale?
man,if that quilted maple knife is mine all i can say is wow what a beauty.i might have to get a couple more for gifts.i can't wait to get it.thanks for the look,steve
Yes, that lite colored handle is pretty! I love my tooth pick necker, wear it all the time as well as use it!
well them are cool. good job.
Curt,
Good looking knives! I really like the tubular pins. Any pointers on how you do them?
OkKeith
cool knives- they have character...as if they have a story to tell.
RC
Very cool! Does the hole on the blade near the handle serve a purpose or is it cosmetic?
i think the hole is called a spanish notch,but i don't know what it is for.it looks cool though.i can't wait to get mine,steve
Thanks for the kind comments, all. I appreciate it!
Scott, I sent you a pm about your question, but I don't remove the forge scale by soaking. I like the patina they give the blade, but I do scrub the blade thoroughly with a wire brush and sand following that. I do, however, remove all of the scale from the area where the handle scales are epoxied on to ensure a good mating surface. On that note, though, I have a good friend who is the master blacksmith at an 1812-era historical site that we both volunteer at. He has been teaching me a great deal about traditional techniques, specifically how to draw a temper by resting the spine on a red-hot piece of steel and using the resultant colors to affect the temper line. This subsequently requires a smooth, scale-free surface to adequately judge, so I will be soaking the next few blades I've heat treated to try this out.
Keith: The tubular pins are simply made from copper tubing. After drilling the holes, I take a small conical Dremel grinding bit chucked up in a drill press and run it about 1/8" into the hole. After the pin is inserted, I take a small nail punch and flare/peen it open a bit on both sides until it rests snugly in the openings.
Sheepshooter: No, the hole is simply cosmetic, although some believe there are historical uses for it. I simply do it because I like the way it looks.
Again, thanks all. :)
how sweet is that.......nice work !!!!!
i just got mine today.what a work of art.thanks Curt,steve
I really like those lil buggers!