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Main Boards => Hunting Knives and Crafters => Topic started by: tippit on July 30, 2010, 08:22:00 PM
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I haven't been forging lately what with St Judes (giving 6 knives away), Blade Show with Doug, Bear Quest, and finally Denton Hill.
At the Blade Show, I picked up a couple Alabama Damascus remnants. I wasn't so interested in the pattern as I was looking for thickness so I could forge & pound it down like I do my Keeslar style blades. It certainly is a bit more difficult to forge damascus as opposed to a nice solid piece of 5160 bar stock :) But I think the results were worth the effort...Doc
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tippit/Knives/FirstDamascusForgedblade009.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tippit/Knives/FirstDamascusForgedblade007.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tippit/Knives/FirstDamascusForgedblade005.jpg)
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You're getting quite good at this, arent you!?
Nicest one of yours I've seen yet Doc & they just keep getting better! :notworthy:
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Yeah tattooman said it right on the money.Great job Doc<><
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Yes Sir, Nice, very nice work.
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Yep, gotta agree with all the above. Nice Doc :thumbsup:
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Nice.
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I like the layer count on that one! The higher layer damascus the detail seems to wash out!
Steve
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Potomac Forge
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Nice stuff!!!
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Jeff, you are amazing.
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WOW!
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This is the first piece of damascus I've worked other than arrow points. Can anyone tell me what the quality of Alabama Damascus is?
These were pieces of left over stock that Alabama Damascus had on their table...scraps really. I think the two pieces I picked up were under $20 total. I was more interested in seeing if it would delaminate when I forged them.
The problems I had were:
1) Forging on the edge when I make my indentation to start my flare. It looked like it wanted to start delaminating but I only hitting it at red/yellow heat...seemed to work.
2) Because the stock is thinner, it's much more likely to distort at the recaso. Plus Damascus seems softer when forged than 5160.
I'd like to hear from those of you that forge rather than stock remove damascus, if you have any tips on working it differently. Thanks...Doc
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Doc,
Just a thought . . .
Maybe keep the steel fluxed if you're changing the shape as in the Keeslar finger guard.
To my knowlege most damsacus is usually forged to shape with flux then ground. I don't know if additional heat and forging without flux delaminates the layers.
I'm sure Doug, Karl or Lin will jump in & clarify what's happening.
Nice blade!!! :notworthy:
Larry
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:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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JEFF,
GOOD LOOKING BLADE! IT WAS GOOD TO SEE YOU AT DENTON HILL.
JED
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Jeff,
Your first experiment with Damascus seems to be a great success. Nice work.
Allan
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Very nice work :thumbsup:
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A true artist you are Doc. Very nice work
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That's awesome!
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Way cool!
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Beautiful!
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Doc, for an old vet, you sure do nice work on them knives. Always enjoy your post. Keep up the good work. I marvel at your talent. :thumbsup:
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Bill,
Coming from an OLD baskeball coach, I'll take that as a compliment :) Doc
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Very nice work. I enjoy a damascus blade.....Randy
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Sweet knife!! Gives me some encouragement to keep "bangin-steel"--THANKS