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Main Boards => Hunting Knives and Crafters => Topic started by: beaver#1 on February 02, 2010, 02:15:00 PM
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ok i just about have my gas forge going. all i need is the ceramic blanket, and the regulater. i have looked at all kinds. i know its to a high pressure one but want to know which one yall use.
where did you get it, price, if you like it or not, stuff like that.
thatnks Dustin Parker
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You will want to get a regulator that will send a CONSTANT 6-10 psi to your forge and control the amount of propane that goes in with a needle valve.
Don't control the amount of gas going in with the regulator.
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hey karl i was expecting you to answer. i looked on your site to see if you had a picture of your forge on your shop tour. didnt get to see one. where would be a good place to shop for these intems
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I have one from Zoeller Forge that works great. If you gave it a hard look, I bet you could find a match for it at any welding shop near where you live.
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i found many when i did a search that put out a max of 15 t0 20 psi . these had the regulator and needle valve . would that work.
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I'll get you some pictures tomorrow when it's light so you can see my set-up.
Keep in mind that in a small tank, or even a large one, the tank pressure is about 100 PSI or more.
You do NOT!! want that much pressure anywhere near your forge.
I have a 100 gallon tank outside the forge, but I also have a 100# (20 gallon) tank inside that is hooked up in-line as a reserve.
Either way, each one has a regulator ON THE TANK that steps the pressure down to about 10 PSI.
That is then run through hard line across the shop to the forge area.
Which brings up another point - don't just run a hose from your tank to the forge. Especially just a 10' rubber hose line.
I know, a bunch or guys could jump in here and say they do it and it works just fine. However, if you consider that short of a run from the tank to the forge, then as the gas gets to the forge after only running a few feet, it's still basically cold!! You have ice cold gas dumping into a forge and expect it to burn efficiently. Not to mention that it's just foolish to have your fuel supply right next to a 2000 degree flame-shooting-furnace!
So, have as looooooooooooooong of a run as possible. This allows the gas to warm up and expand BEFORE it gets to the forge!
Then, at the end of the hard line, have another regulator that steps the 10 PSI down to a pressure that you can regulate at about 4-6 PSI. Then have a gas line from that regulator to the forge and control that gas with a needle valve.
Also have a shut off at each regulator and at the forge!!
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c247/kbaknife/tools/DSCF0006-1.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c247/kbaknife/tools/DSCF0007-1.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c247/kbaknife/tools/DSCF0005-1.jpg)
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thanks karl, this helps alot i have a 35 gallontank ( i think) . so what you are saying is that a 10 psi regulator will work as long as i can adjust and control the gas thats being fed into the forge. running the longer line is a great idea keeps me from moving that dang bottle from the back of the shop every time i refill.
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The regulators are color coded. Use the RED one and a needle valve, like Karl said. Lin
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thanks lin
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Regulator at the tank at 10 psi.
Regulator at the end of the line to turn that down to single digit PSI. I run about 4-5.
Needle valve at the forge.
I'll show you tomorrow.
Look down on this page and find everything you need:
http://elliscustomknifeworks.hightemptools.com/supplies-mainpage.html
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If you guys don't mind me jumping in... I'm putting together my forge right now from Zoeller. From what Karl wrote above, I realize my hose is gonna be too short from my 20 gallon tank. I have a propane furnace in my shop coming from my main house supply.... So maybe I would be better off having a plumber rig up something off the line going to my furnace?
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Won't be enough pressure there.
There's a regulator on your tank and then that is stepped down at your house and probably your garage as well.
Most house appliances and furnaces operate on only about 1/2 psi.
It's designated in water column inches at about 11, but that translates into about 1/2 psi.
Our propane forges need about 8-10 times the pressure that goes into our houses to run appliances.
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Thanks Karl.... That settles that. Longer hose then.
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www.tejassmokers.com (http://www.tejassmokers.com)
If you can, go w/a hardline from the tank.
Larry
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Lar... Do you mean to use copper instead of flexible?
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I used copper. Easily obtainable at any Home store & IMO easier to work with than iron pipe.
I only use flex (as short as poss.) rubber on either end.
Larry
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Maybe this will help some - the idea behind the numerous regulators is to protect you from that guy 'Murphy', you know, the one who wrote "Murphy's Law": If something can go wrong, it will.
The LAST THING YOU WANT is to have a bunch of feet of gas line running right to your forge area that has FULL tank pressure in it and then have something go wrong! Tank pressures often run about 110 to 120 psi. Can you imagine a flame shooting out of a gas line at that pressure??!!
That's why you want only a few psi in your gas line.
So, I have a regulator at my 100 gallon tank that IMMEDIATELY steps the tank pressure down to I think 9 psi.
Also, note that right above the tank is a shut off valve. Right above the 100# tank inside the shop as well, there's another shut off valve, AND! right above the regulator that goes to the tanks, there's ANOTHER shut off valve. INcase something happens near the forge, like a line breaking or something of that nature, I can leave the forge area and still shut off the fuel supply.
That 100# tank in the shop is my back-up fuel supply if the large tank runs empty.
But in each case, the tanks have a regulator DIRECTLY attached to them so there isn't ONE foot of fuel line with high pressure in it.
Then, at the end, I regulate the fule pressure to the tank at about 4-4 1/2 psi and control my forge with the needle valve. And there's a shut off valve right in front of the needle valve.
I don't want to go up in a big BOOM! and you shouldn't, either.
Everything you need for safe operation is at the link I posted earlier.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c247/kbaknife/tools/gf2.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c247/kbaknife/tools/gf.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c247/kbaknife/tools/gf1.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c247/kbaknife/tools/gf3.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c247/kbaknife/tools/DSCF0005-1.jpg)
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thanks karl im starting to see it in my mind how to set this thing up. quite a bit more to these things than i first thought.
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I have something similar to Karl's in my shop. I have a shut off on both sides of the forge opening. Actually, one is a needle valve. That way, if the electricity goes off or something, I can shut it off AFTER I decide which direction I run. I run the line under the metal table that my forge is sitting on with a shut off within easy reach. Lin
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thanks alot every one, i just hope building this gas forge is going to eventually pay off. i love my coal forge but its so hard to come by unless you can get a dump truck load . planning on getting this finished this month.