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Main Boards => Hunting Knives and Crafters => Topic started by: Scott Roush on November 24, 2009, 05:51:00 PM

Title: saw blade knife question
Post by: Scott Roush on November 24, 2009, 05:51:00 PM
So I've been doing heavy research today and have read many build alongs on how to build these things and I have just a few questions:

When softening the tang to drill... can you use any old hardware store variety propane torch to get it soft enough?  And does it get soft enough to use an electric hand drill with standard bits without destoying em?

I'm still trying to figure the best way to get an initial beveling surface for sharpening.  Can somebody give me a few tips on this? My tools... angle grinder, Dremel and bastard mill files.

What are some good methods to achieve nice, variegated, dark patinas that hold up through time without scratching off? Is it possible?

Thanks folks!
Title: Re: saw blade knife question
Post by: Scott Roush on November 24, 2009, 06:01:00 PM
and another... what are different options for pins on the handle?  Can ya get the brass at a local hardware store?
Title: Re: saw blade knife question
Post by: OconeeDan on November 24, 2009, 07:56:00 PM
I'll leave the annealing questions to others.
For the patina, you can try dabbing mustard on it in splotches, it will give a "used patina".  Or you can etch in ferric chloride, or possibly vinegar.  
Pins, try buying brass rod from hardware store, and use that.  1/8 and 3/16 are good sizes.
Dan
Title: Re: saw blade knife question
Post by: KHALVERSON on November 24, 2009, 09:04:00 PM
depends on how thick the steel is and how many btu,s your torch puts out the tang should be heated to red hot and allowed to cool slowly
it may take more than 1 heat to soften enough
a variable speed hand drill should work fine
because they spin slower than most drill presses
and there will be less of a chance to over heat and work harden the steel
and while your at the hardwhare store dont forget a good quality two part epoxy

kevin
Title: Re: saw blade knife question
Post by: ALW on November 25, 2009, 08:36:00 AM
Be careful with the vinegar if you have the scales (wood) already on.  I'm sure you are probably supposed to do this before you put the scales on but I had done a little final sanding on my blade and wanted to darken it a bit with vinegar.  Did it last night.  I must have not gotten the finish just right on the handle and some of the vinegar stained the wood up near the blade black.  I'm pretty sure it's ruined, at least as far as looks.  A buddy of mine used the mustard and got a really nice demascus look.

Aaron
Title: Re: saw blade knife question
Post by: Scott Roush on November 25, 2009, 08:47:00 AM
Mustard, eh? I also just heard good things about onion juice. I suppose it's just whatever has acid it it....  Mustard has vinegar.  Onions form sulfuric acid when contacting water... hence the eye issue.
Title: Re: saw blade knife question
Post by: Balding Kansan on November 25, 2009, 04:14:00 PM
Never made a knife before but being in the construction industry i've drilled a little steel. DeWalt brand "kobalt" bits is what i use to drill stainless steel and thats some hard stuff. Lowes carries them. Heavy pressure and slow drill speed.
Title: Re: saw blade knife question
Post by: ALW on November 30, 2009, 08:50:00 AM
Just a little follow up on the vinegar blade finish that seeped onto the wood handle.  I guess the resultant liquid from the reaction of the vinegar with the steel can make a dandy stain!  The little bit that seeped onto the wood went deep.  I've tried sanding it out and it just keeps going.  Much deeper than the stain I put on it.  

I seem to remember seeing on a wood working show way back about putting a bunch of old nails in a coffee can and covering with vinegar and letting it set for a while.  Then straining the liquid to get the rusty bits out and using it to stain wood.  I think they did white oak and it stained it a black-gray.  Kind of like the black action wood looks.  I may try it the next time.  It definitely goes deep.  Sorry to get off topic.

Aaron