I'm having trouble with my inserts pulling out of my gold tips. I'm roughing the inside of the shaft with a dremel, cleaning that out with acetone and a que tip (sp) and then two part epoxying them. What's the secret?
Hmmmm,
You're not overdoing it with the dremel are you?
I roll up a piece of 120 grit sandpaper, insert into the shaft and give it a couple twists, then insert a barely damp piece of paper towel into the shaft to get the dust out, and then use 2-part epoxy with great results.
Last year I used low temp hot-melt for my hunting arrows and didn't loose any.
But sometimes it seems the same thing don't work twice.
hnh
I don't know, usually you can't even melt that 2-part epoxy. HNH might be right about the dremel.
I use a tap. The rings give it a lot of purchase. Dick
I use a tap also - very lightly, but it scores it well without removing too much material. I use a slower setting epoxy. I've found that the quicker epoxy sets up, generally (not always), the weaker the bond. In other words, my "Two Ton Clear Weld Epoxy" that sets up in about 10 minutes is much stronger than my "5 minute epoxy". Just a thought - check to see if your using the RIGHT epoxy.
All the best,
Glenn
I am using a 5 minute epoxy. I'll try the tap and 10 minute trick.
Thanks TJ.
I have used PC Super Poxie available at auto stores and have never had one come out, even when hitting rocks.
Could also be the epoxy. I have used some 2 part epoxy in the syringes that never set up well. I have had better success with the 2 part epoxy that comes in squeeze tubes. Brass inserts stay in better when stump shooting than the shorter Al for me also.
I use a brass rifle bore cleaning brush in 270 cal. then clean dust with isopropyl alcohol. I use slow-set epoxy because I install the broadhead and spin on my arrow spinner. That way you can rotate a bit until your broadhead is perfectly true then stand it perfectly vertical w/head up to set.
I make dozens of them in the shop-BigAl has the bullseye. We also use a tap and sandpaper. The cleaning with alcohol, mixing epoxy well and standing the arrows up right does the trick-we leave ours overnight.
I used to use the epoxy, but I switched to superglue. I read in the Easton tuning guide where superglue actually bonds/becomes part of the carbon, so I tried it. Matter of fact I didnt get one seated all the way quick enough, and that dude aint ever coming back out. I just lightly score the inside of the shaft with sandpaper, lightly score the insert, wipe it off on my jeans, and glue it in. So far it has worked perfectly, and it only takes a minute. So I'll keep doing that.
I use the 100 grain brass inserts.
Score the inside with a rifle bore brush. Clean with MEK, acetone or lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol. Use JB Weld. Then hope you never have to take one out because it never will.
I use the same hot melt glue they use to glue-in the aluminum shaft inserts. I don't do a thing to the inside of the shafts before I glue them in. I've never lost one, although I target shoot with them in my backyard almost every day. When I want to remove one, I just hold it in boiling water for a while, with a target point installed, and it comes loose easily. One thing is that I generally have supplemental weights screwed into the ends of the inserts, which makes for a longer insert to glue in, so maybe that makes it hold better.
I've been told to use Loctite Black Max. I've not done it myself but just might on the next bunch of arrows.
i use goat tuff glue or easton festset gel (just super glue in gel). gold tip used to recommend in their directions to use goat tuff. with fastset gel i can wipe off extra immediately screw in field point and shoot within seconds. dries so fast if you hesitate with insert half in it will stop right there. can also remove with heat added slowly. do not come out through summer or winter shooting.
I'll second the Goat Tuff. I don't believe there is a need to do anything to the inside of the shaft prior to installing inserts. Just make sure the end is square from whatever cutoff method you used and glue them in place.
Wrong size insert, Golt tip has two different sizes, the proper one is a press fit, all I use is a little dab of super glue and do not have an issue. If your inserts are not press fit, get rid of them as you will forever have this problem not matter what glue you use.
Trapper
I also had the same problem using epoxy. Finally I started using the Gold Tip glue. I haven't had one come out since.
what if you want them out they tell you not to use hotmelt but it works just fine if everything is right the only reason for them to come out is your target is too tough to pull and thats no fun i had one like that on a cold day it took everything i had to get em out, i lost lots of inserts with all types of glue.
Interesting about the size of the inserts..
I got some that are pulling out also, dont seem to fit real tight..
Never had a problem with the CX150's..
I have had good luck with those, using Loc Tite Gel Super glue, and with a little heat they do come out as well..
I'm like McDave. I use a Beman hot melt glue and I never have any problems. I don't even use the extra weights.
I also had a lot of trouble with 2 part epoxy. I went to the 24 hr. epoxy and it still comes out but not as often. I now use 404 loctite and it took care of everything. I was using the arrows for stump and live tree shooting.
I use the loctite superglue...works great