Trad Gang
Main Boards => Hunting Knives and Crafters => Topic started by: Norseman on February 19, 2009, 01:26:00 PM
-
Good Day all. I am new to this site as a fledgling archer, but I just can't help marveling at all these wonderful knives being made.
A buddy of mine is a real scrounger and packrat , as I am. Recently he went to a lumber mill that was closing down and managed to grab me five VERY large circular saw blades. They are approx 30" in diameter, have carbide teeth on them as well. One is about 24" in diameter and very thick steel approx 1/4 inch....he felt that this very thick blade would make great meat cleaver blades
These blades are so wickedly sharp you will cut your fingers on them if you mishandle them.
Wondering if I have a good source of steel to try my hand at knife making? No markings on the blades that I can see.
If so, what is the best method for cutting my rough blade blank with...I am afraid to over heat it.
Thanks for any help you can offer.
-
I'm sure they will have to be heat treated anyways so over heating shouldn't be a problem. So one with more info will chime in soon I'm sure!
-
Most sawmill blades that have carbide teeth brazed on them are not made out of suitable steel for knifemaking, as it won't get very hard. I have a friend that works at a big sawmill that got a new saw once, and he brought me 20 30" blades that were brand new that fit the old saw and they no longer had a use for. None would harden. I later found out that they are made of 4140, that is very tough, but not made to harden. Some are made out of .2% carbon (8620, I think).
Brand new steel is cheap and easy to get, and you know exactly what you are working with, so you know exactly how to work it to get predictable results. Admiral steel, Jantz Supply, K&G Supply, Texas Knifemaker's Supply, and many others handle quality blade steel at cheap prices.
If you want to make knives from recycled steel (I prefer to do it this way, too), Nicholsen files are 1095, saw blades that don't have carbide teeth are usually something like L-6, older vehicle springs are usually 5160, hay rake tines are usually 1084 or 1095, and most plow points are 1080/1084. It is best to learn to heat treat your blades, or to work with a steel that you can send out for heat treatment to get the best results from your work.
Sorry for such a long winded post, and I hope it helps.
Todd
-
Thanks Todd...that helps a lot. Here I figured I hit the mother load....LOL.
Oh well that's what it's all about isn't it.....learning
Cheers
-
I happened upon the same recently. A nice 24" circular saw blade...Wont harden at all...
Keep tryin! Lookin forward to seein some of your work in the future!
-
I get alot of my steel from a sawmill, they are bandsaw blades and the steel is L-6 and makes great knives. If you would like to try some of the L-6 let me know and I can send you some to try. good luck.
-
Why thanks Dave....much appreciated. I will try a little more local when I am ready to try my hand at it. Shipping would be killer from Maine to British Columbia Canada.
Appreciate the offer
Best regards
Paul
-
Bandsaw steel is almost always 15N20, which is basicly 1075 with 2% nickel thrown in for toughness. I've got a lot of this, as well. It makes great small blades and kitchen knives, if you like carbon steel. The best heat treat is a little different for L-6, though.
Toddd
-
When you do get some L-6, you got some tough steel. I love that stuff.
If you want to try to make a hatchet, you can use the saw blade material to wrap around a spindle and insert a bit of higher carbon steel for the cutting edge. I am wanting to use this method since I saw Tim Potier's article in Blade.
So many things I want to try. Lin