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Main Boards => Hunting Knives and Crafters => Topic started by: Bodork on December 06, 2008, 11:13:00 AM
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Okay, I'm stoked! A friend ordered some folder kits fron greatlakeswaterjetinc a while back. Well, there was a big delay in shipping due to machinery problems and to make it right, the owner sent two fixed blade blanks for free along with the order. Well, my friend gave me one to try my hand at stock removal. I've never done this kind of thing before but am really looking forward to it. I've got a million ideas in my head already so I hope at least one of them works! Any suggestions will be appreciated. I hope to post pictures of my progress. Mike
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/mikebaker/DSCF0997.jpg)
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I like the shape of the blank. Best of luck with it.
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I am kinda new at this stuff too.
If I had to start over I think the most important thing for me would to go SLOW!!!!
Mistakes are hard to fix.
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thats a very nice shape.
just remember steel cant be put back, go slowwww and stay in your lines
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That is a nice shape, and we will need a pic when your finished!
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I agree with everyone else to go slow, but dude, remember it's a knife. Finish it and if it doesn't turn out perfect, that's ok! You can make another one!
Use a wood handle like Cocobolo or Iron wood. They hold up well, look great and won't create too much toxic dust.
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I haven't even touched the knife yet but have a question. If I try to put brass bolsters on it do I need to solder them or can I pin and epoxy them? Thanks, Mike
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Mike,
Brass works great! Use 1/8" pins, no glue.
Buy a length of standard 1/8" brass rod from your local hardware store or auto parts store.
Drill your holes in the knife and brass bolsters. Make pins from the brass rod about 1/4" thicker than the stack of two bolster pieces and the blade thickness. (you will have about 1/8" of brass rod sticking out on each side) then slowly pien them together working back and forth from one side then the other. Thay should suck down thight and if all your surfaces are flat, you will have no gaps.
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First, good luck Mike.
This is about as fun and rewarding a thing as you can do. There's nothing like strapping your fist knife on your side and heading into the woods.
To answer your question, you can't solder without effecting the heat treat and if you solder it on first...you can't heat treat it. So you can't get there from here! ;~)
Just kidding of course. Some guys do try to solder, but it does effect the temper of the steel. So no, I would just use brass pins. Peened and epoxied on.
I have to say, I love brass, but peening brass bolsters on a full tang knife is pretty ambitious for a first knife. You can do it for sure, but you'll need to go slow, take your time and ask a bunch of questions. Or if you can find a local maker to bug would be great.
Now, I have a question for you. What kind of steel is that blade? Did your buddy say?
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Hey BD I don't want to hi-jack your thread,but thought maybe give you a couple ideas.Here's one I made from a hack saw blade with moose antler handle.The no pins just did not look right to me.The handle is glued on with smooth-on epoxy and baked at 160 degree for 1 hour.I really wish I would have used pins though.bowdoc (http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii175/bowdocsarchery/bd2003.jpg)
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Hey Mike I be purdy new too! Been doin it long enuff to know that doin YOUR best is key! But there is somthing to be said about gitter done. Learn from what You belive was wrong and build a nicer one next time.
By the way lookin at Your blank You ain't gonna be very dissapointed! looks good!
I personaly pin and epoxy plus peen. Good luck
You know that this is just the start of an addiction right??????? C-ya Bob
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I've only made one knife from a circular saw blade and I agree go Slow!!! Take as much time as you need, 'cause if you mess it up it's kind of heartbreaking (first knife was a dud). Otherwise I epoxied and pinned the handle and didn't find it to hard to do. Have fun and good luck. Prarieboy's right it's addicting I started my second knife last night.
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Thanks guys. I still don't know if I'll go brass bolsters on this one or not. I have some fantastic looking wood on the way and I'm toying with just making the handle all wood.
Chiger, the steel is 154cm?
Mike
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Ah...in that case, a word of caution.
Make sure you know exactly what you're gonna do with the scales before you just do the grind and send it off to be heat treated.
You will NOT like trying to add new holes to that stuff after it's hardened. GRRRR!
I'd actually do a full mock up of the pins, scales...everything so there aren't any surprises when you get it back. There won't be any decarb or anything to worry about, if it's heat treated right, to change the blade. Just a little discoloration so your parts should fit right back in place.
Can't wait to see the pics.
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What chiger said!!!