Trad Gang
Main Boards => Hunting Knives and Crafters => Topic started by: Brad Singley on November 10, 2008, 10:09:00 PM
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I have had a few people ask me about the stippling/texturing that I do. I will try to explain it, moderators let me know if this doesn't belong.
First I would like to give credit to the person who taught me how to do this, Ed Caffrey, a Mastersmith from Great Falls, Montana. Ed's work is simply amazing. Caffreyknives.net for some great examples.
Start with your knife completely finished, I usually go to at least 400 grit, all scratches need to be removed before you start texturing. I use a Foredom tool with the 1/6 hp motor, bigger is not better here. The weaker motor is easier to control. less torque. Use a pencil or colored pencil to mark to area to be textured, be creative but remember it should add to the piece not detract from it. Do this drawing by hand not with a ruler, it looks better if it's not perfectly straight. It should flow not look angular, hope that makes sense. After drawing in both sides of the handle place your knife in a Moran Style vise that allows you to rotate the handle 360 degrees. You should have a ball cutter chucked in the Foredom tool, along with a flexible shaft and a foot pedal.
Now comes the fun/boring part, make sure you have a firm grip on the tool and plunge the ball cutter into the area to be textured. Depth is approx. the diameter of the cutter ball about 1/16". this creates dust of course so if you have a small fan use it to help clear the work area. This process will take you a couple of hours to do, do not rush it. One reason for finishing the handle before starting the texturing is so that you can see any areas you missed in the first pass, make sure to go back over the areas you missed or the skipped areas will show up shiny. That's about it as far as instructions go, like all skills it takes a bit of practice but it;s not that hard.
Couple of random thoughts:
Do not use majic markers to draw off the area to be stippled, it can go deep on some woods and bones.
Brace yourself for torque from the motor or you will have deep scratches and grooves that you did not want! Work with a up and down motion, not side to side.
This technique will work on woods, bones, ivorys, and leather.
I hope this helps you guys, and explains how this technique is done. This is my first time trying to explain how to do something on the internet, let me know how I did.
Thanks!
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Brad,
I have yet to try this technique, but you made it very understandable. I think this would be a way to improve some of my handles especially on large knives where grip is so very important. You did good and I thank you for taking the time to tell us about it. Lin
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Thanks, Brad, a lot.
I'm a little insure about how the "border" is created? It seems like there is a step missing here? From what I've seen, it doesn't appear like the edge is simply created with the stippling process - am I right?
I love the look of those and have been asked to make some, but am not 100% comfortable - yet.
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Brad, Great job as I have wanted to try this too. If you could take a few pictures that would realy drive what you said home. Thanks...tippit
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What I ment was a few picture doing your process not finished work.
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Hi guys, thanks for the good words and feedback. Karl yes on just using the cutter to do the edge, the ball is so small that you can get away with that. Remember you do not want sharp straight lines doing this, it looks artifical, should be a little off to look good. Kinda wierd since we spend so much time trying to get that out of our knives! As for pictures I'm a one man show have to see if the vife could help me out there, anyways do not have time to do that right now, maybe later.
Working on a oosick handled fighter, if texturing works on that knife I'll post so photos of the process.
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Karl, there was a texturing tutorial for bow grips awhile back on PowWow. The bowyer recommended first stippling the outline, keeping the space between the dots very small. Then go back and fill in the space. I'll see if I can find the thread and post the link...
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Here's one http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=059011
It's not hard to do, but time consuming. I tried it on one bow handle and it turned out great... then I snapped the bow limb!
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Got it - thanks!
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Thanks Brad, and your stippling looked great.
there is another method for those who may have a compressor and not a foredom. You can mask off and blast with walnut shells. I have not tried it myself but it is very nice looking and functional.
Dan
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guys, at the risk of sounding simple what is a foredom?
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It is similar to a dremel tool, but on steroids.
The motor hangs from a hanger, has a flexible cable to a handpiece. The handpiece can handle different size bits, not only the 1/8" that the dremels usually use. And motor speed is controlled by foot pedal, like a sewing machine.
I don't have one....yet.
Dan
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gotcha. thanks for the write up brad
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Guys, I apologize. I should not have assumed everyone knew what a Foredom tool is. I definitely need more practice at tutorials, I will try to explain better next time. Bear with me.
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Dan, i have a compressor, how do i do the walnut shell thing?????
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Shaft slinger, I have not tried it myself. I have only used sand, less than good results.
Do a search on "walnut shell media", to find where to buy it.
It is is fine enough you can use cheap sandblaster from NH or Harbor Freight, they cost 20 bucks.
Even better would be a blast cabinet from same places. It contains the blasting media for reuse and you don't get it all over the place.
Dan