With all the talk about high-FoC, I was wondering if anybody has tried the "Reparrow"system?
It is reverse-tapered insert made from walnut, cherry or purple heart that you epoxy directly over a standard taper, then taper the reparrow footing like you would a regular arrow.
I'm thinking if you cut your cedars about 4" shorter and glued the reparrows on the taper, it would bump the weight way up( if you used the heavy P-Heart.)
Anybody ever try 'em?? if so, do they work well??
They look like they would really beef the point end up alot.
BD
I've tried them. They work good for what they are intended to do, i.e., extend the length/life of an arrow.
However, they don't add much weight to the front of the arrow. I think mine are maple or birch. The 4-inch segments weigh an average of 55 grains before tapering -- say about 16 grains per inch. My 11/32 cedars average 14 grains per inch. So replacing 4 inches of cedar with 4 inches of maple or birch only adds 8 grains or so.
I've got some I'm working with. So far I really like them. I would agree with Orion's assessment as well.
Is the PH heavier than either the birch or maple??? being an oily exotic, you would think it would be?? :)
It is too bad they don't really weight-up the tip...
But I would think they do make a tougher, more FoC arrow than a standard tip. ie. Stumpshooting?
I've used 'em to repair broke-tip shafts and they work fine insofar as maintaining accuracy. I suspect we'll be hearing from the Reparrow system folk. Seems to me that with all the attention Ashby's research is focusing on the importance of high FoC to penetration, and the difficulty in obtaining it in wood shafts short of expensive footed shafts, Reparrow would take advantage of the market opportunity and offer the heaviest thing they can come up with. Heavy wood and slightly longer could indeed make a difference. And unlike really heavy broadheads, it should weaken the overall shaft stiffness that much. We now have at least two leading 2-blade broadhead makers working hard to produce an Ashby-style head, and there's clearly a need for an affordable high FoC "adaptor" for wood shafts.
Well said Dave.
Since reading the article in TBM; I have been trying to find a way to come up with a viable method for a high FoC woodie.
I just like wood arrows. :)
Jim in Maine (Reparrow) is a member here. I'm sure he'll come along and answer your questions. I used to throw all my broken arrows away when I was in the UK, but now I'm in the US, I'll probably be ordering some Reparrows at some time. Personally, if I was looking for a high FOC natural arrow, I'd go for rivercane with its natural taper.
Graham
Sounds like some heavy Reparrow stuff???
Cocbolo? Osage?
Maybe ebony? or how about dymondwood?
that is some stout-stuff.
:)
Just to add a little extra to this; Cary, have you ever tried to go with smaller fletching to bring up your FOC? Bare with me on this for a second. Everyone adds to the point to increase FOC but I haven't heard mention of how much is added to the back end with the big Feathers. Take any finished arrow and measure FOC, now take the fletching off and smaller feathers. Your FOC will increase. The only question is at what cost? We use large flething for a reason. I guess what I am trying to say is; why not work both ends instead of just one. Add a little to the point end and take a little away from the back end.
Nick,
I shoot tapered shafts to begin with, and I am moving from 5.5 Hi-back shields, to 5" parabolics again.
This, with more FoC from a heavier foreshaft should be a good combo.
CD :)
Good idea, even longer and denser wood would help the FOC part. Of course, really heavy and dense wood like Ipe or whatever is going to need a woodchuck or something to taper it, hand held tools ain't gonna do it!
Well Jim?????? :saywhat:
well i wanted to try some but the guy did not want to send them to new zealand. go figure. hello!!!!
Even a really dense wood at the same 4-inch length isn't going to add much-- maybe 20-25 grains at the most. Suppose that's better than nothing.
Regarding smaller fletching to lower the back end. Again the difference is minimal. My 5-inch shields weigh about 5 grains each. That's 15 grains, not counting the glue, for three feathers. At the most, you can only cut it by 5 grains or so and it would take pretty small feathers to do it.
A fella on the other thread (High FOC woodies)has the answer, a tapered steel outsert that fits on the shaft like a regular point, and it itself is tapered to accept a broaadhead. Could be made in various weights from 50-150 grains pretty easily. All he needs to do is convince someone to produce it. I'll buy them.
I used the aluminum style of those years ago...broke all kinds of arrows right behind where it glues on.
Not a viable option IMO> :)
The Reparrow footing works great for it's intended use-repair an arrow that has broken in the first couple of inches. I have used them a fair bit and will continue to do that.
As for high FOC I'm getting Ted at Raptor Archery (who is a sponsor here) to foot me a couple of dozen arrows with a hunting taper, that and a 190 Grizzly will get me to where I want to be-650-700 is as heavy as I want to get with my 50# ACS.
I like them for arrow repair, I have used them on a 5/16 shaft so I could put on a 11/32 ferreled broadhead. I like the walnut they are tuffer than the cherry.
Drill a 3/16ths hole length ways in the Reparrow and fill it with solder that ought to get the weight up!
My shooting partner has been experimenting with that on a standard shaft. Drills a 3/16 hole about three inches into the point end of the shaft and epoxies in a nail shaft. Adds about 100 grains. Should strengthen the shaft as well because the nail will be imbedded in the shaft two inches behind the head. He says they definitely fly well. Hasn't put them to a real toughness test yet.
I've used the repair footings for a couple of years now, including doing some "destruction" testing on some made of locust. I wouldn't be without a dozen in my workshop.
Kevin
Hey, you guys snuck up on this subject while I'm at work and didn't notice!
HO'NEHE JEFF, I'll send them anywhere now. I think that was back when I was thinking of patenting the idea. If I marketed them in most countries before patenting, I could not get a patent.
Now I just rely on the fact that there isn't a lot of money to be made with them and it's too much trouble to set up--and I keep my mouth shut about how to make them. :goldtooth:
I use them every time I break a an arrow near the point. I dreamed them up for ME! But then decided other folks would have fun conquering the 'broken arrow syndrome" too.
Glad you guys like them.
Jim,
Have you thought of doing some very dense-wood models???
thanks.
BD :)
I use them and they work perfectly for their intended purpose.......extending the life of a tip broken arrow.I would love to see them offered in some very dense hardwoods and about 8-10" long.
I think that would be neat also. About 8" long and point tapered on the front end. Then you could just cut the softwood arrow to your desired length and add a real hardwood, pre-tapered footing.
Good stuff though Jim! :D
There are some production issues with making them longer. Most important is that a slight kink in a shaft will not show up at all in a 4" length, but in eight inches, there's a waste factor of shafts that are just not straight enough.
I can do any wood I can get in a dowel or square, but I have to leave a couple of thousanths of an inch over cedar size for sanding to a smooth transition. I have thought it too much work for the customer to sand those exotic woods. This is one part of archery whose reason for being is that it's easier.
I don't mind some sanding, and I would be interested in some heavy woods... :)
well jim thats good to hear so i can tell the guys at the club about them now thank you. :thumbsup: