I just ordered some Laminated Birch Shafts from Allegheny Mountain Arrow Woods. I have been shooting cedars and wanted to try something different. My main reason for trying the Laminated Birch was to get a heavier shaft. I am looking for any information anyone can give me about them. Are they hard to straighten? Do they retain their straightness once straightened? And what is the best way to straighten them since they are a laminated shaft? Any information would be appreciated.
Thanks, Bill
Bill I have used laminated birch and ash shafts.Both need heat to straighten.I put them in the oven for a few min. and hook them till they cool.After a few times they stay straight.It takes me 3-4 times before they stay but in the end they do stay. Also make sure you seal them good including your tip tapers.Hope this helps Pm me if you have any more questions. John
Hi Bill, I love the laminated birch shafts. I have the 5/16 50-55 spine shafts. I shoot them out of three different longbows, 2 straight bows at #48 and #50 and one r/d bow at #42.My arrows at 28 3/4" with 145 STOS or field tips weigh between 580 and 600 grains.I haven't had to straighten them as they came in a bundle and were pretty straight.I just keep them in the bundle untill I am ready to use them.It is important to be sure the laminated grain is perpendiculer to the bow string when you put on your nocks.They shoot great , tune easily and give very good penetration. Hope this helps.Any more questions just ask. At this time I wouldn't use anything else. Bob
I have been shooting the Lam birch for at least five or more years I loose track of time. I have only had great luck with them straightening has never been a problem I can't loose them and I can't break them. Bill Bonczar has made all my shafts at allegheny great guy, great arrows
Great shafts, but from what I've experienced you will need a higher spine than you normally shoot.
I shoot a 65-70 spruce but need a 75-80 lam-birch.
Eric
Yep. Hardwoods don't recover as fast as softwoods like cedar, spruce and fir, thus will need to up your spine by 5-10 pounds or more.
Thanks Guys!!!! Any more info would be appreciated.
Bill
You need to straighten them with heat. My first batch I had to straighten a fair amount, the second batch I got 3 years later were very straight. I sent one through a deer last year.
Jason
I've been using them for about 4 years now for my heaviest bow (53# at my 25" draw). My arrows are 26" to BOP and with 125gr points my arrows are consistently over 600gr. I concur on the straightening being a bit or work. I'll have to try the heat method next time. I usually get my from TRs and have had some come very straight and others needing a lot of work. They hit like pile drivers though.
Howard Sheridan
TTT
I love my Birch shafts!Heavy enough for some real OOOMMMPH!!!Most of mine are about 29" BOP and with a 125gr WW they weigh in at about 640gr............tapered that is.Very tough too,hardly ever break one even when I miss,not that that happens too often....... :bigsmyl: :bigsmyl:
I have found that I have to add 5# to the spine also. I have only had trouble with keeping them straight in the lower spine ranges though. I haven't had much trouble in heavier ranges (70-80#).
Use a penetrating sealer on them and they will stay straight. Surface sealers like gasket laquer will not seal them good enough and they will warp as the moisture level in them continues to change. Joseph
I have been using Gasket laquer without too much trouble, but give me an example of a penetrating sealer to use...what you say makes sense.
Ken
Thanks for all the advice!!
Bill
Fletch-Lac sealer penetrates, as well as Daly's Pro Fin (available from Whispering Wind Arrows). I like the Daly's myself, since it doesnt stick in 3-D targets quite as bad.
I am sure there are other sealers out there, but these are 2 I have had good results with.
BP
I've had no trouble keeping them straight with hand straightening--with any hardwood if you use a waterbased finish (I do)it helps if you seal the wood before dipping. I use wipe on stains or acrylic artist colors wiped on as a sealer, then dip twice in Ace polyacrylic.
Shooting longbows in the 65 pound range and use laminated birch exclusively spined at 70-75 pounds - bought shafts at 3Rivers - weigh 650 grains average at 29" with 125 grain heads. Are very consistent, durable, straighten quickly when shot and hit real hard. Only difficulty I'm having is with broadhead - seems finicky about what will work and what will not - Grizzlies working great, Zwickey two blade ok but it seems the wider type 2-blade or 3-blade are erratic - THAT could be something I'm doing but the experiment will continue WITH laminated birch shafts.
For what it is worth! - Good Luck
Like Reg, I use a waterbased sealer, steel wool, another coat, steel wool and then cover with Spar varnish or similar and one last steel wool treatment to dull finish.