I don't have a bow scale and am trying to figure out what draw weight I'm drawing with my Predator of 51# @ 28. I'm drawing 28 1/4" at the point of pivot. With my reading of the AMO standards and the Predator review in a 2006 TBH Mag issue where the draw weight for AMO 28" is measured at 26 1/4" at the pivot point, then I'm really drawing AMO 30". Given that, if true, then the draw weight at my draw length is more like 53-55# (1.5 to 2 # per inch).
The reason I'm asking is that if I were to order a custom bow, regardless of the bowyer, I would need to order the draw weight/length at AMO 30 in order to get my draw within the sweet spot and not be bumping the bow's stacking wall.
Does that logic, weight figure, and reasoning sound about right?
Thanks
RTN
if thats right.
i would recon about 2/3# per inch so maybe 55#+ -
Draw length is measured to the front (belly) side of the bow; not to the grip pivot. (AMO states to add 1 3/4" to the pivot for their standard, for draw length, but that is not a true constant for all bows).
Ron's bows gain 3lb per inch, out to about 31", before they stack, so a true 30" draw would be 57lbs.
I know this because Ron's son shoots at our club, as does Ron on occasion, and my neighbor has been shooting his bows since he's been building them, even before the Darton bows...and he draws 30", as do I, and we scale his bows multiple times per year for references for my little "projects"...
Take Care,
Marc
Thanks Marc.
From the belly of the bow, I'm drawing 29 1/4" (measured with a marked arrow). Assuming I'm reading your post correctly and that Ron's bow weights are measured 28" at the belly, the weight I'm drawing would be a little over 54# and would be well within the sweet spot for Ron's bows. Correct?
Frank
PS: after posting this and rereading the posts, I know I'm a little confused. I do know I'm drawing 28 1/4 # as I had a Tradgandger measure my draw with his handy dandy draw measure bow at his shop. So I'm trying to relate all that to my Predator and my head is starting to hurt. :D
Frank. you have to be a bit flexible with the term "draw length". It is typically measured at the front, or "back" of the bow... Yes, confusing. Think of it in these terms, if you put a bamboo BACKing on your bow...where does it go... anyway, draw your arrow and have someone put a mark at the point it goes past the back of the bow, or, put a spring type clothespin on the arrow, near the end , and draw it. It should reposition itself by butting against the back of the bow, to tha same place where your friends mark should be. That is your draw length.
The reason I said to be flexible is that, if you are shooting a longbow that is pretty thin in handle....this length may be...say 28". If you now grab a recurve with a beefed up riser and that same draw might scale 29" or 30". Partly due to the added thickness of the riser and maybe even due to a different grip (high wrist / low rist etc). For that bow, your draw is longer. Add on to this measurement an insurance gap of maybe an inch for broadheads and your arrow length may be 31", with your draw length 30".
The rest of your statements sound correct, as far as draw weight for Ron's bows.
ChuckC
Does a pound or two up or down really matter that much to you? What the heck, pick a bow shoot it awhile you'll get used to it. If you get another one, shoot it for awhile until you shoot it well. This is traditional archery it's supposed to be fun , not rocket science.
(http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h21/VAbowbender/Hunting/BowCollection.jpg)
QuoteOriginally posted by VA Bowbender:
Does a pound or two up or down really matter that much to you?
Not really. Been thinking about it too much. :knothead:
thanks for the responses everyone.
rtn
Your Boyer can digest all you tell him and do just fine. I always think of shooting a bow like slow dancing with my wife.. "Belly to belly". (now don't take that any further.)