Trad Gang
Topic Archives => Build Alongs => Topic started by: RGK on April 03, 2008, 07:44:00 AM
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If you recall, I posted a story about my son after we went to Compton last year. This is the same son, so many of you have donated broadheads to for his collection. (Thanks again)
On the drive home from Compton, we alked about making him a bow. This thread will chronicle that process. I am by no means a pro at this. In fact, the last time I built a lam bow was back in 1988 to make the bow I hunt with now. I could most likely buy him a much nicer bow than I will ever be able to build but, there something to be said for doing it yourself and handing it down. The fact that some of the wood was cut by his Grandfather makes this project something one can't buy.
I must warn you that this will be slow going. I have many projects in the works with much stricter time lines than this bow so there will be periods of inactivity. Thats just real life.
This bow will be a reflex/deflex Long bow. Here is a pic I stole off the web to give you an idea of what I am going for.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/bowidea.jpg)
The woods I am using for Josh's bow are the same ones I use to make knife handles. For the most part, they are South American hardwoods. The riser will be made from Bubinga, Bloodwood and good old American hard rock maple from a tree my Dad cut many years ago. Sort of a legacy piece of wood, cut by my Dad, Made into a bow by me and finally used by my son. I will also use some of the Maple in the limbs.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow1.jpg)
this is the order in which I will stack the layers.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow2.jpg)
Most S.A. hardwoods have oils in them that make gluing difficult, so I use acetone to clean and degrease. Blood wood and purple hear are some of the oiliest. You can see the orange oil in the basin of the sink. It took a long time to clean that sink. I should have sprayed it with pam first. :oops:
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow3.jpg)
Once cleaned, I used a hacksaw blade as a scrapper to rough up all the gluing surfaces. Epoxy does not like smooth surfaces.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow4.jpg)
The glue I am using can be purchased at a number of bow building web sites. This is a two part epoxy that gets stronger if cured under a heated condition. This is important because if you leave the bow in a hot car on a sunny day, The glue had better have been cured at a high temp to keep the bow from de-laminating.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow5.jpg)
It mixes like any other epoxy.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow6.jpg)
Make sure to cover your work surfaces with wax paper or plastic wrap. It is hard to clean up any spills. Then simply butter both sides of the surfaces to make sure you have no dry spots that will later separate.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow7.jpg)
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I use spring clamps because C-clams will get loose during the heating process when the glue oozes out. (trust me, there is a lot of oozing) Spring clamps keep a constant pressure at all times.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow8.jpg)
I then take the riser and put it in a preheated oven. Bake for 8 hours at 180F until a nice golden brown and serve with a scoop of vanilla ice cream .
When it comes time to glue up the bow itself, I will build an oven box that is 6 feet long as the bow will not fit in the oven. I will heat this box with 100 watt light bulbs.
Fast forward 8 hours and a few more hours for a slow cool down period and the riser is all glued up. The rubber tips of the clamps need to be pried from the glue.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow92.jpg)
Next, I ran the block through my table saw to square it up and remove the excess glue.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow93.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow94.jpg)
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Then I drew the riser pattern on the wood and cut it out with a band saw and sanded the fade outs on a drum sander.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow95.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow96.jpg)
This glue is a flexible epoxy. Normal hardware store epoxy would crack and break if bent like this.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow97.jpg)
Make sure to use only enough glue for the job at hand. A little goes a long way.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow98.jpg)
I now need to make the form that I will use to glue the bow on and I need to make the heat box. Like I said, this is going to be a slow moving project. I will post more progress as I get a chance to work on it.
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Before I can go any farther with Josh's bow, I need to build the form that the bow will be glued together on. There are a lot of ways to go about this and forms can be made many ways but I chose a way that seemed easy to me.
I bought a nice straight 2 x 10 and traced the form that I came up with onto the wood.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow1111.jpg)
Then cut it out with a jig saw.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow1112.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow1113.jpg)
I then went over the entire length of the curve with a square to make sure there were no twists in the form. Any irregularities were taken out by sanding.
In order to keep the form straight over time and in the heat of the oven box, I screwed a few 2x4's along both sides. They will also act as feet to keep the form from tipping over. Next, I covered the entire curve with a piece of 1/8th inch thick by 1 1/2 wide aluminum strip. This will make the the curve a much better surface to build the laminations on and it will be more repeatable should I want to build more bows from this form. This form will build bows up to 70 inches in length. This bow will be a 66 inch model.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow1114.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow1115.jpg)
I need to drill a bunch of clamp holes along the curve for the spring clamps but that will have to wait for another day.
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I love these build a longs! Keep em coming.
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Looking good! Keep it up.
Mike
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Looking good Ron. Just so happens I am helping Ron Lang make a couple flat long bows for his grandsons this weekend. We will be keeping an eye on your progress. Can't wait to see the finshed bow.
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Looks great so far. My next project will be a laminated bow.
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I hope your a patient man Greg. My problem is taking on too many projects at one time.
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Looking forward to seeing this one!
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great build along! this looks very good :thumbsup:
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I spent some time today, making the clamp holes in the form. When I assemble the bow, I plan to use spring clamps to compress all the layers of wood, fiberglass and epoxy together.
I drilled big round holes and then used a jig saw to square up the side of the hole closest to the top surface. This will give the clamps a little more room.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow116.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow117.jpg)
I will use one clamp on each side of the limb. Like this.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow118.jpg)
I also got a package in the mail today from Old Master Crafter of Waukegan, IL. I ordered the wood laminations a few days ago and these things showed up a lot faster than I was told they would. (Great Service) It does not look like much for about $60 but what it is, is 6 taper ground action wood strips that are .065" thin on one end that taper at .001" per inch of length. The strips are 36 inches long and 1 1/2 inches wide. they came protected by two nice looking strips of Zebra wood. I will use them for knife handles at a later date.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow119.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow120.jpg)
I placed the thick end of one piece next to the thin end of another so you can see the taper.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow121.jpg)
Each limb will get three of these tapers and one strip of parallel thickness Hard rock Maple that is from the piece of wood my Father cut so many years ago. This is the same piece of wood that I used in the riser.
On the front and back of each limb will be a thin layer of Kingwood and then clear fiberglass. All of this will be assembled with the same epoxy I used to make the riser but first I need to assemble an oven box.
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Love these build alongs. Nice work RGK.
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Very cool build along! Thanks for sharing! :) :thumbsup: Looking forward to seeing the final product! :D
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That form looks great!!
How do you order from "Old Master Crafter of Waukegan, IL" I didn't find a website for them.
Do you have a catalog?
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This is awesome stuff,Please keep going. :)
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Very cool.Thanks.
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they are "Old Master Crafters" They are so old that they do not have a web site. (kidding) Call them and they will send you out some information.
847-623-2660
Originally posted by onemississipp:
That form looks great!!
How do you order from "Old Master Crafter of Waukegan, IL" I didn't find a website for them.
Do you have a catalog?
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On Sat. Morning, I built the oven box for the bow form. I will spare you the details since it's just a box made from scrap plywood that was left over from another project. I will say that It is 12 inches high and 22 inches wide and 74 inches long. By removing 6 screws at each end of the box, I can reduce the box to four individual panels for easy storage.
You will also notice that the box has neither a top or bottom. The reason for not having a bottom is so that I can bring the box to the form that will be covered in oozing epoxy and many clamps (creating a challenge to move) I would rather bring the box to the form.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow122.jpg)
With the box complete, I assembled the heat source that I will use to raise the inside temp of the box to 160F. A trip to the Home Depot for the supplies ran me about $30.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow123.jpg)
The first step was to get rid of those pesky warning labels. Nobody reads them any way. The extension cord company knows I am not going to read the label in English so why would they expect me to read it in Spanish? I hope the extension cord labels are not like mattress labels. I would have to spend time behind bars for removing them.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow124.jpg)
Once I cut the extension cord into bits, I wired the light bulb bases together in series so that one plug would power them all.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow125.jpg)
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A quick test revealed that I had had paid attention in shop class.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow126.jpg)
I placed the form between the two light bulb boards and brought the box to the form. My Son will need to help with this part as the box is a bit long to handle alone. Everything fits nicely.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow127.jpg)
The cover of the box will be an old closet door from our last house. It is hollow so it is light enough to move around and it was free.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow128.jpg)
I drilled a hole in the door and inserted the probe of a thermometer. This way, I can keep tabs on the temp inside the box without opening it and letting the heat escape. My wife won't be cooking a turkey for a few months anyway.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow129.jpg)
After two hours with the bulbs on, the temp never got above 135F. I will replace the 100 watt bulbs with 150 watt bulbs and add two additional bulbs to the boards
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow130.jpg)[/quote]
The next test will include covering the oven box with a canvas to trap the heat better. I think 2 extra bulbs should do the trick.
The next sep will be to make a test bow out of scrap material so I get the feel for the assembly process and so that I can check the glued up trial piece for any warps that I will be able to correct before wrecking a bunch of expensive woods and fiberglass. It is a piece of mind exercise.
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This is a great build along. Love the inovation.
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My drying box wouldn't get above 90 degrees with 3 lights. I put cheap foam insulation on the box and can get 100 degrees with my lights barely burning(have a rheostat).
You could cover your box with a heavy comforter and get the temp up. I use one when I glue up a BBO in cold weather.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/cookingabbotent.jpg)
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you can also staple discarded underfelt offcuts to the inside of the box and lid or use reflective foil, cooking or roof insulation. Cheap rules!
chrisg
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In order to evaluate the bow form, I built a mock up. I bought a pine, 2 x 6 and cut it into strips that were .065 thick.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow131.jpg)
Before gluing the strips together, I protected the form with two layers of tape. It will be easier to remove and replace the tape then it will be to try and chip away any excess glue from the form.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow132.jpg)
Next, I covered the surfaces of the form with plastic wrap to keep it clean.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow133.jpg)
I used yellow wood glue for the mock up. It did not require the oven box. Once all the layers were covered in glue, I used clamps and strips of rubber inner tube to compress the layers.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow134.jpg)
In the center section (where the riser will be) I added a few extra strips.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow135.jpg)
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After 24 hours, I removed the clamps and the plastic wrap. There was no "Spring back" or relaxing of the wood strips. I then took the mock up and reversed it on the form to see if it was symmetrical and it fit the form equally in either orientation.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow136.jpg)
I checked for twists in the limbs and found none.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow137.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow138.jpg)
I then placed the riser against my chest and grabbed both limb tips and began to flex the bow. Since I did not have any fade outs and the ridged glue does not like to flex (and the pine had many knots) both limbs broke
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow139.jpg)
This allowed me to nest the limbs and look for any twists or differences between the two. Everything looked good.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow141.jpg)
I think all is ready to assemble Josh's bow. Now I just need to find the time to actually do it. Since I will want to baby sit the oven box for the 8 hours that it will cook, It's going to have to wait until I have a free weekend and those are hard to come by.
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Ron, keep this one coming...I am very intriqued with bow building right now...Just fearful to take the first step for fear of screwing it up and wasting my precious money....BLM
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This is a great build, I like the mock up and testing phase.
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Onward! Great build along.
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This has been great to follow along and learn the process. I never thought to do a mock up, but it makes perfect sense.
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Thanks for doing the build here on Tradgang!!!!
Good Job, keep it coming!
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This is great! Looking forward to seeing what's next. Keep it up!!
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I'm hoping that our urging you on will move this project up your priority list! GREAT STUFF!
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I am learning a ton!!
Thansk alot!! Am looking forward to the rest!!
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Great Build thanks
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wow this is a great thread... keep it up.
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I took the advice of some folks and insulated the inside of the oven box. I bought a roll of insulation that is made from a double layer of bubble wrap with heavy duty foil on both faces. It is just under a 1/4 inch thick and lightweight.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow142.jpg)
I used a staple gun to attach it to the inside walls of the box and to the under side of the box cover.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow146.jpg)
I then added two additional light bulb bases to the boards that I had made up earlier. I used 100 watt bulbs in the center two bases so now I have (4) 150 watt bulbs and (2) 100 watt bulbs.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow145.jpg)
After one hour, the temp had risen to my goal temp of 160F. I felt the outside of the box in several locations and could not feel any heat escaping through the walls or lid.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow143.jpg)
After 2 hours, the temp had risen above my goal but I consider this a good thing since I will now be able to crack the lid a bit or perhaps unscrew one bulb to control the temp.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow144.jpg)
The oven box is finished and ready for the big day.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow147.jpg)[/quote]
I have already had someone approach me and ask that when I finish my son's bow, if I would glue up a bow for them and send it to them right off the form. They want to take it from there and complete the shaping, tillering, finishing, etc. I think it will be neat to see someone else finish a bow that comes off this form.
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I sure like your ideas on the form and the oven. Never thought of a floorless oven. Tempeted to tear the bottom out of mine! :)
My oven was lined with that foam with the foil on one side that is used in home building. It runs on four 200 watt bulbs and usisng the thermostat from Binghams it cycles on and off during the bake.
Next cook off I'm going to place a low volume battry operated fan inside to keep the temp even throughout the oven. Thinking to use one of those little portable fans that go inside an RV refrigerator.
Keep us posted. This is a great thread! :thumbsup:
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Excellent. Dual purpose, bow hot box, jerky oven. Mine smells great every time I open it.
Pretty bow design, btw.
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I didn't have much time to work on the bow today but I did get the strips of fiberglass cleaned with alcohol and then I put a layer of tape over the shiny surface to protect it from scratches and epoxy during the build up. The one on the left is yet to be taped.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow151.jpg)
On the back side of the bow (towards the archer) I need two pieces of fiberglass so I cut one of the long strips in half after I taped it
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow152.jpg)
Then I beveled the wood laminations so that the glue seam would not be so obvious.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow148.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow149.jpg)
Then I glued the bevels together to make one long piece.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow150.jpg)
At this point, I am ready to glue up the bow. I hope to be able to do it next week.
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You had better do it sooner than that, I'm not sure we can wait that long!!!! No-Doze man, No-Doze!!
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What an awesome thread. I am in the planning stages of build one too and this is really inspiring me and hopefully will answer a few quesions along the way.
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RGK,
Just to help with the terminology: The side of the bow limbs that face the archer is the belly. The side that faces the target is the back of the bow. The beveled cuts you glued together to create one long piece of wood lam is a skive cut. They are real handy, too. I just used that same technique with a Hickory lam this week on a boo backed bow.
It is looking real good. Can't wait to see the final product,
Christopher
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Thanks, I am a rookie and learning as I go.
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Instead of the skive cut , you will have a much stronger back one piece wood lamination if you use a "Z" splice instead. Or a single fish tail splice is another good option, a long shallow angle lets say about four or five inches will also do. with these cuts you will git more surface area for the epoxy or glue to grab onto.
Less chance of the limb pulling apart on the Bow....ONE SHOT...
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Looking real good. You make it look so easy I might try a glass bow soon.
If I got this far I think I'd stay up all night and call in sick. I would be sick until I'd finish it.
:)
Looking forward to it.
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On glass backed bows that don't bend through the handle and have handle overlays there is very little chance of a skive cut giving way, if it has sufficient angle and the joint is even all the way through. JMHO
chrisg
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Where can I get the pattern for the form? I bought one from 3R but it only has the reflex in the extreme ends of the bow. I would rather have the almost recurve shape.
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The pattern is untested at this time.
While health events in my life right now limit my time required to do the glue up and monitor the heat box, I do get a moment here and there to mess around with the bow project. I did a dry run and found something I never thought through (Which is the point of a dry run)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow154.jpg)
While the riser fits great on the empty form, adding the strip of fiberglass backing, four tapered laminations and the fiberglass face caused the fade-outs to lit poorly. I did not factor in the tapering of the laminations as they work away from the center of the riser. I discovered a gap at the fade-out area. I felt this gap was larger than it should be and do not want a large amount of epoxy at this hinge point. I might just be over cautious but I want a better fit and a consistent glue line. The dark black area near the thinest part of the riser is what I am worried about.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow156.jpg)
I sanded down the riser until it fit better.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow155.jpg)
I also made some tillering attachments that I saw in a post by Hera I was impressed with the ingenuity's. They are made from 4large washers that I epoxied together and cut notches in
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow153.jpg)
I should be able to glue the bow together in a few days.
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To: RGK
"I sanded down the riser until it fit better." by means of something ? Can you show photo of this tool or tools ?
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I used a block of wood and 80 grit sandpaper. Sand and test. And repeat.
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So, enough waiting already. Time to glue this bow up. I promised a local grade school I would give them a few hours on Friday so I took the whole day off and worked on the bow in the afternoon.
I laid out everything I needed since the dry run a few days ago. Then I put both quart containers of the epoxy in a basin of hot water to warm them up a bit.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow157.jpg)
Next, I cleaned all the wood and glass surfaces and laid them in the order in which I would glue them.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow158.jpg)
1. is .050 clear glass
2. is .020 kingwood vernier
3. is .090 thick hard maple taper (two pieces glued together to make one long piece)
4 and 5. is .065 thick hard maple taper (two pieces glued together to make one long piece)
6. is a piece of hard maple .060 parallel from the piece of wood my Dad cut. (two pieces glued together to make one long piece)
7. is .020 kingwood vernier
8. is .050 clear glass
Missing from the picture is the riser.
Fast forward to a completed glue up with the warmed epoxy. Due to the mess and the fact that I was working alone, I did not slip out of my sticky rubber gloves to take pictures along the way. What a slippery mess to work with. I used a combination of spring clamps and rubber inner tube strips to compress all the layers. I had more C-clamps at the center (on the riser) but I took them off once I realized that they stuck up higher than the sides of the box and the cover would not lay flat. So much for a complete dry run. I should have tried the lid of the box also. Oh well. live and learn.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow160.jpg)
Here is a close up of all the layers and all the extra glue that oozed out. I also learned that I used too much glue. I think I could have built two bows with what came out from between the seams. Once again. Live and learn. The gold colored layer on the top is a strip of aluminum that will help spread out the load from the clamps. I was the old track from a shower door that I cut into two strips for this project.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow161.jpg)
Here is the oven box doing it's job of keeping the bow at around 160F. I will unplug it before I go to bed and let it slowly cool down over night.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow162.jpg)
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well done - this is very interesting. I would like to try one from some of the local desert timber we have here (for the riser). But have no idea who sells the core timbers in Australia. I know they have to be precision ground - so unless they were made specifically for the purpose, by somebody who knew what they were doing - then they would not be viable.
Thanks for taking the time to do this RGK. People prob don't realise how time consuming it is to take all the pictures, then upload them and write the unstructions. You must either be retired or have more than 24 hrs in one day - LOL
Sutto
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Awesome job so far. I want to tackle one of these soon, and this will be a good reference!
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i'm learning alot
thanks
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suttoman, I stopped watching TV 5 years ago. Not even Packer games. It created a lot of extra time in each day to make knives and arrows and bows and sausage etc, etc, etc.
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RGK,
You are doing great! Glue is tough to judge, but in this case, it's better to have too much than too little. I spread my glue on both sides of the piece with a dollar store putty knife. I look to make sure the whole piece is glistening with glue and there are no blobs and move on to the next piece or place it on the form... and I still get a lot of extra glue seeping out. I guess it is unavoidable, but I do use a lot less glue than my first bow (I used a whole pint kit of smooth on, man was that messy!). As many bows as I have made, though, I always learn something with every one as well as learning from other's build-a-longs. Thanks for posting it, it is going to be a looker!
Mike
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Awsome Build-Along!!! I have Learned a Great Deal, and I am Anxious to See the Next Set of Pics!! Thank You for allowing ALL of Us In To Watch!!
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More! Bake that puppy!
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It was a day of ups and downs on the bow project. It took a solid hour to free the bow from the form. Removing the spring clamps was easy, The epoxy covered strips of inner tube proved to be a bit tougher. The form cleaned up easy because of all the tape I used to protect it.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow163.jpg)
The bow was a little tougher. The extra epoxy was everywhere and held bits of the inner tube captive.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow164.jpg)
To save on a mess in the shop (and because it was a nice day) I took the bow out to the back patio behind my shop. The breeze would blow all that nasty fiberglass dust away.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow165.jpg)
I learned that I need to place a layer of plastic wrap between the last layer of glass and the aluminum pressure strip. I didn't do that with this bow and needed to sand away the excess epoxy to free it from the bow. This also gave me my first look at the glue lines between the layers of wood.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow166.jpg)
after sanding both sides I could pry away the aluminum pressure strip.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow167.jpg)
Then I just had to peel away the tape to see how the Kingwood looked under the clear glass.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow168.jpg)
And the other limb.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow169.jpg)
and finally the back of the bow. Everything looked good.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow170.jpg)
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Then I worked on the riser. there was a lot of epoxy to remove.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow171.jpg)
The risers looks good and so do the skive cuts that joined the strips of maple
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow173.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow172.jpg)
I then made a line on each end of the limbs that was 34 niches from the center point of the bow. (68 inches overall length) I used a fine tooth hacksaw to cut the ends off.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow174.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow175.jpg)
Both ends measured the same thickness.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow176.jpg)
Then I used the washers to string the bow before I cut the string grooves.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow177.jpg)
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Here is is strung but with a bow string that is too long so the brace height is only about 5 inches. I used the string from my longbow. It is the only string I have for that bow. (that is an important point that will be realized a bit later.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow180.jpg)
To check for limb twist, I wanted to look at more than just saw cuts at the ends of each limb so I took a carbon fiber shaft and taped it in place on each limb. I made sure they were at 90 degrees to the limb.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow178.jpg)
With the washers in the measured center of the limbs, there looks to be no twist in the limbs.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow179.jpg)
I marked the centerline of the bow along the entire length and used a strip of wood to mark a straight line for the limb taper toward the string nocks.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow181.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow182.jpg)
Just as I was marking the last line on the other limb, all hell broke loose, Something whacked me in the finger and the bow jumped up off the table. When I figured out what it was, I had to search high and low for both washers. The bow string (my only string for my bow) had broke. My guess is that I left too sharp an edge on the inside of the groove and it cut through the string. Now I have no string for either bow. Time to scramble and locate a 64 inch string for my bow and a 63 inch string for the new bow.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow183.jpg)
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man that sucks, that bow is looking GREAT though..........
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Good job,I like your arrow limb alignment method!!
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Today was a better day. If there is such a thing as a good time for a string to break, I guess I am lucky. I got the limbs marked right before the break.
Now, Thanks to Trad gang Member and all around great guy Atlatlzoom, the project can go on. He offered to make me two strings for this new bow and already has them made a ready to ship to my door. Thanks so much Atlatlzoom and to Trad Gang for being such a great place with such great members.
Today, I started by shaping the limbs. I used my belt sander with a 50 grit belt to grind down the limbs to the lines I scribed. My lovely bride got a picture of me at work.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow184.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow185.jpg)
Next, I marked the location of the string grooves in the ends of the limbs.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow186.jpg)
Using a chainsaw file I made the beginnings of the string grooves. This will help me locate the tip overlays. when they are installed, I can finish the grooves.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow188.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow187.jpg)
For the overlays, I want to use Bloodwood and antler. The Bloodwood will match the accent strip in the riser and the antler is just something I wanted to try. I had a section of antler left over from a knife handle I made. I will use the longest tine as it has no pithy core. It is solid all the way through.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow189.jpg)
Using the belt sander, I created a flat spot on the antler that will run against the rip fence of my table saw. I am using a carbide tipped finish blade so I get less chipping and a smooth cut.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow190.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow191.jpg)
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I made the strips about an 1/8th of an inch thick.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow192.jpg)
In order to get the best adhesion with the epoxy, I needed to rough up the shiny surface of the clear glass. I used a hacksaw blade as a scraper. I did the same to the bloodwood and the antler.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow193.jpg)
I used the same epoxy, I used for the rest of the bow build.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow194.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow195.jpg)
I used only one bulb under each tip and some of the left over insulation from the hot box. Not much I can do except make the tillering tree.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow196.jpg)
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Note: do not try that table saw trick at home. Ripping thin small pieces against the fence can cause kick back and flying small pieces not to mention finger mutilation!
Nice build along otherwise. Please keep it coming and be safe!
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Correct. Only trained professionals on a closed course. LOL I used two hands and then turned off the saw. When the blade stopped spinning, I took the picture.
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Very good build along,very nice bow.
Very particularly in building process.
I like TG and miss here.
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Hera, I never understood what your avatar was until I saw the washers you used to string the bow the first time. Thank you for that bit of knowledge. It is a great tool.
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With the antler and Bloodwood overlays glued in place. I began shaping the tips. I still have the very first fiberglass longbow I ever owned as a kid. It is a 25 pound bow and I wanted to make the tips of the new bow look something like my old bow.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tip01.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tip02.jpg)
I sanded all the edges flush and continued the string grooves I had already started.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tip1.jpg)
The rest really needs no explanation.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tip2.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tip3.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tip5.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tip6.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tip9.jpg)
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(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tip91.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tip92-2.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tip93.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tip94.jpg)
The groove has to have enough room so the string does not kink at full draw. I used the good end of the broken string and approximated the string angle.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tip95.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tip96.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tip97.jpg)
It's a slow process and I only finished one end tonight.
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lovely limb tip. :thumbsup:
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Very nice work!
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GREAT build-a-long. VERY detailed. Nice work.
-Brian
www.bowyersjournal.com (http://www.bowyersjournal.com)
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Great job, I love those limb tips!
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Great pics. I'm learning a lot!
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Thanks to Trad Gang member Atlatlzoom, I'm back in business. He sent not one but two handmade string that are beautiful. He used colors to match the riser. On top of that, he would not take a dime for all his efforts. Thanks so much for the Strings.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshstring.jpg)
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Glad they made it! they're nothing special, I just wanted to help you get on with the build
along!
Zane
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Zane, your work is great. Thanks again.
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Good on you Zane! Great build along Ron! Looking forward to the rest! Matt
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Before I could use the new string, I needed to build a tillering tree to check the limbs for even bending. I had a section of treated 2x4 up in the rafters of my garage for a few years so I knew it was good and dry. I drilled a series of 3/4" diameter holes at a 15 degree angle in the edge of the 2x4. The holes are 2 1/2 inches deep. In those holes, I glued short sections of 3/4 inch wooden dowels. I then sanded them to round off any sharp edges.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tree1.jpg)
And marked off the distances along the side.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tree2.jpg)
This is the bow holding end of the tree. I use a piece of leather to protect the riser when I clamp the bow in place.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tree3.jpg)
I attached a plywood base so it would stand by itself.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tree4.jpg)
With the string grooves filed and the tillering tree finished, I strung the bow for the first time. and drew it back. It was a good feeling. I then put it in the tree and drew the bow to a few different lengths to see if the limbs were flexing equally. Here are the pics.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tree5.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tree6.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tree7.jpg)
I can see some differences in the flex of the limbs. I will sand away certain areas to make the limbs act the same.
Lessons learned. I could have left out every other wooden peg. I really don't need one at every inch.
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Wow, Ron. I'm thoroughly impressed by your work. This is a great build along and it is producing a GREAT looking bow.
Your attention to detail is amazing.
You've already given me lots of ideas (I'm hoping the bow clamp on my tillering tree looks just like yours later today....).
Thanks for sharing, Howard
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Extremely good job Ron!!
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I sure hope someone archives this !
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Ron,
Come up for air. This is too good to let responsibilities get in the way.
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Sorry but I had to help my Dad Bury his Brother over the weekend. I will get back to the project this week.
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Holy cow, this looks like a professionally build bow. Tips just blow me away
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Sometimes, even attempts at humor result in a size 12 inserted fimly in mouth. Sorry to hear about your uncle's death. My condolences to the family.
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That's an absolute beauty! Well done mate! :D :thumbsup:
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Pete, Don't sweat it. He lived a full 85 years and the nursing home was no place for a guy like Vic. He is in a better place so no sadness.
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After a few days off to tend to some important issues, I got a chance to get back to the bow. I still needed to cut out the sight window and shape the grip. I drew the window onto the tape on both the back and belly of the bow. The window will be 1/8th inch less than center.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/riser1.jpg)
I used a hand saw and chisel to remove the wood.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/riser2.jpg)
And then sanded it to the lines.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/riser3.jpg)
I put a crown on the shelf.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/riser4.jpg)
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To shape the grip I used a wood rasp and sanding blocks
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/riser5.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/riser6.jpg)
It still is a bit thick and will need to be slimmed down a bit.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/riser7.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/riser8.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/riser9.jpg)
The end user is happy with the fit so far.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/riser92.jpg)
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Looking real good mate! Good job! I'm looking forward to seeing it finished! ;) :thumbsup: :clapper:
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Fantastic thread - thank you Ron!
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Very nice so far!!! :thumbsup: :notworthy: :clapper: :clapper:
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this is great, Thanks for posting it :thumbsup:
almost as good as being there :campfire:
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You've radiused the shelf, but are also gonna put a radius on the riser arrow plate?
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Yes, I did that last night. I also removed more of the material getting me closer to the center rather than being 1/8 of an inch less than center.
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I have a stupid question. I know a little about tillering a selfbow. But how did you go about tillering a glass backed/bellied bow? sand the glass or take off width?
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fantastic build along thanks for taking the time to share your hard work with us, love the look of the tips! :thumbsup: :clapper: :clapper:
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After stringing the bow and having Josh draw it a few times, I asked him how the grip felt. He didn't like the bump in the center of his palm so I sanded it down a bit more and did all the finish sanding of the rest of the grip. While I was hand sanding, I looked up to see 3 young gals heading up the driveway to visit. I stopped sanding and grabbed the camera.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/does.jpg)
They didn't hang around long after I told them what I was making. With the sanding done (320 grit) I masked off the riser leaving the bloodwood exposed. I cleaned it with denatured alcohol in preparation for sealing the oily bloodwood with super glue.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/grip1.jpg)
I squeezed a line of glue on the wood and worked it in with my index finger using a circular motion and made sure not to stop long enough to become fused to the bow.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/grip2.jpg)
The Super glue gives a nice shiny acrylic finish and seals and files the pores.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/grip3.jpg)
After a 20 min. dry time, I peeled the tape and used 320 and the 400 grit sandpaper (including the glass) to take off the shine and smooth out the glue. The bloodwood is now sealed and now will accept the finish and dry at the same rate as the rest of the woods in the riser.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/grip4.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/grip5.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/grip6.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/grip7.jpg)
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Awesome job RGK - have really enjoyed this and feel much more condident to try it myself some day
Sutto
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In between running my oldest Son all over the place in preparation for tonight's Senior prom, I had a chance to work on the bow. I wanted to add a medal to the bow's riser and I used a hat/lapel pin that I got at the last Wisconsin Bowhunter's Annual convention. Being that I am a Director for the WBH, I though it would be a nice touch.
I drilled a shallow hole for the medal so that it would sit below the surface of the riser.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/medal2.jpg)
It was a good fit.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/medal3.jpg)
I then masked off the riser and cut away the tape covering the hole. I used two layers of tape so that when I used a putty knife to level the epoxy, It would sit just higher than the riser and allow me material to sand away to make flush.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/medal4.jpg)
When the epoxy cured, I sanded it so the epoxy was level with the wood.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/medal5.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/medal6.jpg)
I kept on sanding until I had the whole bow smooth with 320 grit sandpaper.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/finish1.jpg)
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I then cleaned the bow with a tack rag and then wiped it down with denatured alcohol. I masked off the glass because I want to finish the riser with tung oil.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/finish2.jpg)
I applied the Tung oil using the same "Brush" I used to apply the super glue to the bloodwood.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/finish3.jpg)
I rubbed in a healthy dose of the tung oil and after it cures, I will give it two more coats. I will then use 400 grit and steel wool to smooth out any lines and give it two more coats.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/finish4.jpg)
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Super Job RGK. That is a fine bow. Congrats.<><
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RGK, have you done this before? How much experience did you have before tackling an advance project like this? I have really enjoyed watching this buildalong.
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I built a straight laminated longbow with supplies from Binghams 20 years ago. That was my first bow and this is my 2nd.
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Well, this is very impressive for your 2nd bow. I am intimidated just watching.
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Excellent. Great Job
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Very impressive for a second bow. I've learned a lot from following along. Thank you for taking the time to post this.
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RGK it's obvious you have good woodworking skills that you can call upon but also the most important thing is patience. I know I would have wanted to rush it so I could shoot it long ago.
Very inspiring.
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Trust me, I have been itching to have mt son shoot this bow. I almost had him shoot it the day I finished the shelf but Thanks to the rain we didn't.
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I have a lot of time in between coats of Tung oil so I am getting a head start on making some of the accessories Josh will need for the bow. The first thing he needs is a bow stringer.
I took an old bungee cord that I had removed the hooks from because I needed them for some other project and I cut off one end.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/stringer1.jpg)
Then I trimmed off one side to create a flat surface. The flat is the surface that will contact the bow limb when being used. It took two cuts to get it where I wanted it.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/stringer2.jpg)
The other end of the stringer will slip over the limb. This part, I made out of a piece of scrap leather.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/stringer3.jpg)
I folded it in two and punched the stitching holes
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/stringer4.jpg)
Then sewed it using white, braided, waxed line.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/stringer5.jpg)
Then I added a grommet for the rope to attach to.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/stringer6.jpg)
Both ends were then connected using a strong nylon rope.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/stringer7.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/stringer8.jpg)
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To use the string, On end is slipped over the lower limb tip.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/stringer9.jpg)
And the rubber end is placed on the upper side of the other limb. The knot is tied far away from the rubber end to allow for clearance for the bow string to pass through.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/stringer91.jpg)
I had Josh try it out on my old longbow since the Tung oil was still wet on his. One hand lifts the bow and the other hand slides the loop of the bow string into the string groove on the limb tip.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/stringer92.jpg)
With the string finished, I moved on to a limb tip protector so that nice white antler limb tip won't become damaged when he sets the tip in the dirt.
I started with two thin pieces of suede leather and stitched them together to make a nice tight fit over the limb tip. I then cut a long slot in the back side for the bow string to pass through.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/protect1.jpg)
It is a tight fit and that will keep it from falling off.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/protect2.jpg)
I then trimmed away the extra leather around the outside and tried it with the bow string in place.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/protect3.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/protect4.jpg)
I still need to make a string keeper, an arm guard, a finger tab and a case for the bow as well as a set of arrows.
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well that is one awesome bow right there sir you have talent. :clapper: :clapper:
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Fantactic skills you have there. Thanks for a great thread.
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I have really enjoyed your build-a-long, and could hardly stand myself to be critical at all, but... That cheap Wally World parachute cord imitation is not good stuff. Check the working load. I doubt its more than 50 pounds. Get you some real military spec cord. It will be much safer. Your skills are inspiring!
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Thanks, I will do that.
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OUTSTANDING WORK!!! :archer:
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ttt!
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Well with two Uncles dieing in two weeks and both funerals being out of town and over the weekends, I have not had much of a chance to get back to the bow. At least these long breaks have given each coat of finish a long dry time. I received the shafts in the mail so I can now start the arrows for the bow. In the mean time, I had a little time to make Josh an arm guard to go with the new bow.
I used 5 Oz. tooling leather for the face and 4 Oz. Buffalo for the backer.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/bracer2.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/bracer3.jpg)
I added a little tooling with his initials.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/bracer4.jpg)
And made some antler buttons.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/bracer5.jpg)
I used a dark red/brown stain and attached elastic/bungee material to hold in in place,
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/armguard2.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/armguard3.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/armguard4.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/armguard5.jpg)
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Very impressive work!
Dennis
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Nice next you should make some arrows.
Cody
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RGK needs to have some sort of TradGang award for this thing.
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Dude, you have serious skills. I wish you would take me on as an apprentice. Is there anything archery related you can't make? Seriously, seriously impressed. Looks like you'd been doing this all your life.
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Originally posted by cody roiter:
Nice next you should make some arrows.
Cody
I started his arrows tonight. Gold Tip Traditionals, 35/55. I will cap them with 9 inches of white and then crest them with red, black and brown. The fletching will be 5 inch red barred and white barred LH helical.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/josharrows1.jpg)
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Just read all of your posts and WOW is all I can say...makes me want to do the same thing.
I have a friend that has every wood working tool you could want and we're going to have to do something like this. I think we'll have to split the cost and get some plans from Bingham and get to work.
Very impressed!!
Josh
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I am Very Sorry to Hear About Your Loss. :( FAMILY FIRST then Everything Else.
This Has Been An AWSOME "How-To"!! "Archive Material" if there Ever Was!! :thumbsup: :archer:
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In the spirit of this homemade bow project, I wanted to make josh a finger tab to go with the arm guard. At some point I will need to make a quiver as well. I traced the shape of my homemade finger tab for Josh's and cut out 3 of them from some medium thickness scrap leather.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tab1.jpg)
I then stacked the 3 and used brass rivets to hold them together.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/tab2.jpg)
I then began to focus on the arrows for Josh's new bow. I got the shafts from my friend Paul at Badger Arrow
http://www.badgerarrow.com/store/
I bought Gold Tip Traditionals because of the wood grain look. Paul at Badger arrow turned around my order in record time.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/josharrows1.jpg)
After capping the back 9 inches of the shafts with white lacquer, I started cresting the shafts using a color scheme that resembles the riser. I will write Josh's name on all the shafts.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/josharrows2.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/josharrow4.jpg)
The fletching will be 4 1/2 inch long LW barred turkey feathers. Since nobody sells 4 1/2 feathers, I bought 5 inch parabolic cut and converted them to 4 1/2 shield cut.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/josharrows6.jpg)
Now the fletching begins.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/josharrows5.jpg)
One down, 11 more to go.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/josharrow7.jpg)
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Coolest package ever!!!
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Man that kid is one lucky dude!
Without taking the time to explain is there a link or something you can direct me to on how to crest those arrows. I have never bothered, just use the black carbon 35/55 Goldtips - but I must say they look really awesome.
Sutto
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I just chuck up a practice point in my cordless drill and screw the shaft onto the point. I lay the drill on it's side and support the nock end of the arrow in a felt covered "V" block. Start the drill and paint away.
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Pretty dang amazing stuff, lucky kid! Dad has crazy skills.
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I'm in the home stretch now. The finish on the bow is now hardened. I have the first half dozen shafts fletched, I gave the bow a good rub down with OOOO steel wool to take off the shine and I made the rug rest and strike plate.
For the strike plate, I used 2-3 Oz. leather and for the rug, I used the fuzzy side of some adhesive backed Velcro strip I had laying around.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/rest1.jpg)
The leather was from some scrap I had so I needed to add some double sided tape to make it stay on the riser.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/rest2.jpg)
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That is an awesome looking bow!! Thanks for doing the build along. I plan on trying to build my first one in a few weeks.
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This has been an awsome thread! Thank you very much for taking the time to share it with us!
:thumbsup: KY
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I spent a little time today adding a leather grip to the longbow. The finished wood was very slick and needed some texture. I started with a piece of 4 Oz. tooling leather and got it good and wet so I could form it to the shape of the grip. The wet leather is on the right. I gets much darker when you wet it.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/grip1-1.jpg)
While it's wet, it can be formed and shaped and stretched to fit the contour of the riser. Once I had it shaped, I used a blow dryer to dry it off.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/grip2-1.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/grip3-1.jpg)
So far during this build along, I have been pretty good about taking pictures of each step. Until now. I must be getting tired because I did a bunch of stamping and tooling on the leather but forgot to get pictures of the process. After stamping and cutting the leather to it's final size, I punched some lacing holes. I then applied a coat of rubber cement to both the inside of the leather and the bow's riser.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/grip4-1.jpg)
After lacing, I gave the leather a coat of Neats foot oil to restore the oils lost during the working of the leather and from blow drying. The oil makes the leather even darker. Now, you can see the tooling and stamping I forgot to take pictures of earlier.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/grip5-1.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/grip6-1.jpg)
Then I took it outside for a picture in natural light.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/grip7-1.jpg)
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Mighty Fine!
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Nice job Ron. I would like to see it up close one day.
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Great stuff!
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Greg, I will bring it to the next club meeting.
Originally posted by Greg Szalewski:
Nice job Ron. I would like to see it up close one day.
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Ron,
I am just in awe of your project and to find out this is only your 2nd bow- makes this bow just that much more amazing! Everything you've done shows quality and detail.
:clapper:
I can only imagine how your son will feel when his friends ask him where did you get the bow from?...and he proudly answers "My father made it for me."
Excellent!!!
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Love the stipple effect on that leather, I would love to do that on one of my grips. Very classy. We need a pic of the lacing.
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Well the bow project is finished with the exception of the quiver and and the fact that Josh wants to design and make his own broadheads. It was a fun project and I learned a lot of useful stuff for the next bow.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/reflex.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/done2.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/done.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/finish4-1.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/finish5.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/finish6.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/done3.jpg)
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And finally he got to shot if for the first time.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/firstshot2.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/firstshot.jpg)
I then shot the bow through a chorongraph using a 125 grain field point. This brought the total arrow mass to 425 grains. The speed at 28 inches of draw was 174 FPS. This will produce 28.5 Foot pounds of K.E. giving him even more reason to keep any shots on game at less than 20 yards and broadside. This will also be a design consideration when he starts to design the broadhead. All good lessons.
Now, as for naming the bow, We thought on it for some time and kept coming back to the first post where I explained the the bow was being made with a sort of legacy piece of wood. That name stuck. I explained to Josh that this bow is only to be handed down to one of his children. I hope I am around to see that.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/done4.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/done99.jpg)
It's been fun. THE END......... Or?
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:bigsmyl: :notworthy:
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Lucky kid...that is just plain beautiful!!! :notworthy:
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I'm sorry to see this one end!! Pretty inspiring stuff. Please post your Quiver Pics when done.
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Incredible. I can just imagine him handing it down to one of his kids one day, truly a Legacy.
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This is an outstanding build-a-long! An incredible demonstration of craftsmanship! I have been away for too long. You inspire me to get going again!!! Wells
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One of the greatest build-a-longs in tradgang history.
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Just fantastic work. Beautiful
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Beautiful bow and beautiful thoughts for the future kids from a great dad! Pretty work!
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I've been following along closely but have yet to post. Now that you're finished I can only saw, WOW. Incredible talent and skills. I know you were as proud to see your son shoot it as he was to receive it. Great job. Great post.
Be sure and let us follow along on the broadhead build.
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what a great build along, really enjoyed it! thanks for sharing, great dad, your son must be chuffed :thumbsup: :notworthy:
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Good build-a-longs are informative. Great ones are inspiring. I teach an archery class to middle schoolers, and showed them this entire thread. Today I'll show them the last few pics. Although we, myself included, aren't up to making something as nice as what you've put together, we are all very excited to just go for it, and make the best we can. Thank you.
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Stan. I am humbled. I hope the kids enjoy it.
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Ron,
Did you put a finish on th limbs or is that not necessary? It is very possible that I missed a step as I read through this thread. As many others have said thanks for the amazing build along and the inspiration.
Jon
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really nice work... Great job on the how to & the Bow, stringer, string keeper & arm guard
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Great build and a awesome bow.
What was the riser length?
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Yes, I used Helmsman spar urethane (minwax product) on the clear glass
onemississip, the riser is 18 long and 1 3/8 wide and 2 inches deep from back to belly.
Originally posted by 72highboy:
Ron,
Did you put a finish on th limbs or is that not necessary? It is very possible that I missed a step as I read through this thread. As many others have said thanks for the amazing build along and the inspiration.
Jon
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This build along was fantastic. I utilized one of your tips this past weekend while tillering a BBH R/D bow I'm working on. As all the washers in the garage weren't large enough to make a stringer out of like you showed in your tillering stage the left over hickory slat and the bandsaw created the same thing. I don't think I would have ever thought of that idea if I hadn't seen your picture of one.
Thanks for enlightening us with your hard work and incredible skill.
Christopher
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Masterful.
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Now that was a truely functional work of art. I am in awe of building every single tool you need to shoot from the ground up.
Great job.
greg
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Originally posted by Paul Collins:
Masterful.
that pretty much sums it up!
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now thats a purty bow fer real awesome!! :thumbsup:
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Ron you are an outstanding Father! Excellant thread, beautiful bow and accessaries. I was amazed to see how talented you are. Legacy is the perfect name for sure. Judging by the smile on your sons face he will be very proud to carry this bow!
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How about the limb lay out, what did you go with?
From fades to tip?
Thanks for doing this build along.
The bow finished out 47# @ 28"?
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I'm not sure what you mean by a limb layout?? The overall length from tip to tip is 68" and from string groove to string groove 66". The 18 inch riser is centered in the 66 inch length.
The finished weight was 48# @ 28 inches.
Originally posted by onemississipp:
How about the limb lay out, what did you go with?
From fades to tip?
Thanks for doing this build along.
The bow finished out 47# @ 28"?
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ChristopherO, Your praise should really be directed to Trad gang member Hera. I got the idea from a build along he did here. I have never been to proud to steal a good idea when I see it but I won't take the credit.
Originally posted by ChristopherO:
This build along was fantastic. I utilized one of your tips this past weekend while tillering a BBH R/D bow I'm working on. As all the washers in the garage weren't large enough to make a stringer out of like you showed in your tillering stage the left over hickory slat and the bandsaw created the same thing. I don't think I would have ever thought of that idea if I hadn't seen your picture of one.
Thanks for enlightening us with your hard work and incredible skill.
Christopher
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By limb lay out I mean, bow is 1 1/2" wide at the fades or where the riser finishes its taper into the limbs. Then the limb tapers from 1 1/2" wide from the fades to 3/8" wide at the tips. Measurements being taken across the back of the bow.
As in the pics below.
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow181.jpg)
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c239/212007154/josh%20bow/joshbow182.jpg)
Thanks
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OK. 1 3/8 at the widest part tapering down to 5/8 of an inch at the nock groove.
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Very Nice!
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My favorite Build along ever, thank you for sharing ways of making forms and hotbox's relativly inexpensive. I really like the bow design. You have opened my eyes to so much. You have a ton of talent, can't wait for bow #3.
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Just fantastic!
Truly speachless!
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Terry,
This needs to be archived, and saved so that others can look back on it and refer to it.
This is really wonderful work just like someone said; " masterful "
Carl
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All I can say is WOW :clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
Your a true craftsman. I don't sapose your looking to adopt a 41 year old son
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Very striking bow. Great job. Chad
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OUTSTANDING Build-Along!!! Did I hear the Doors to The Archives creaking open???? THAT is a Bow to Be PROUD Of!!
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Archives---I just saved it on disk for a time I will need some info. What a BOW and every thing needed to shoot, from dear oll Dad with a little from Grand Dad. Dosent get any better.
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Incredible work!!!!!!!
Thanks for letting us tag along!!
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Hi RGK,
I became a member on this forum very recently and I'm in the research stage of building a reflex-deflex bow which I believe is the same type as the one you built.
Since I'm in Sri Lanka and do not have much of a culture of bow making I have been researching a lot to find info on bow building as well as properties of wood for limbs to find native woods which would fit the bill.
So I looked in many sites and went through so many build-along’s and your build along was by far the BEST by a country mile. I'm so glad that you decided to share ur knowledge with us I learned plenty and I have ready and seen every part of this thread and I find it hard believe this is just ur 2nd bow cos the only way to call this bow and this project is a...
.........A MASTERPIESE........
Thank you very much and I hope I will be able to build a bow 1/10 as glorious as yours. Your son is one lucky guy and ur one hell of a father Great work and your attention to detail and craftsmanship is simply awesome..
Cheers
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One AWESOME build-a-long...wish I'd known about it before I built my 1st bow!
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As my kids would say, "Dude, You've got MAD skills!!" I have my own talents, but right now I'm feeling slightly embarassed! A truly masterful job! Thank you for allowing us to see it.
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WOW, great job RGK. I did a little build-a-long a few weeks ago on a longbow that I built but must say I'm slightly embarrassed after seeing this one. Great photo's and very informative. Your leather grip is outstanding. You've given me some ideas to try on my next bow. :clapper: :clapper:
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I envy your son. He's truly blessed. If he hasn't already, there will come a day when he reads that bow and cries.
Dan