I have spent a little time trying to find out how to make hide glue and with little luck. I was wondering if it is neccesasry to use actual hide glue for a sinew backing or would for instance elmers white glue work just as good? Just trying to save myself time and agrevation. Thanks...
Hide glue is made from rawhide.You boil it and boil it until it turns to glue. You can throw hooves and sinew in there too if you want.
I don't know anything about sinew bow backing though. BTW,you can buy hide glue. 3 rivers used to have it.
Get some Knox gelatin from the grocery store. That's what I've used on all my sinew bows with good success.
Titebond makes hide glue in a bottle. Works great.
Costs a little more.
hide glue will usually draw reflex into your limbs,if you just want to glue on sinew then titebond is the ticket.
Quoteposted by elkbow:
hide glue will usually draw reflex into your limbs
... if that would be the case, then we could spare all the sinew, right?!
Hide glue is the only way to go when backing with sinew IMO.
You must use hide glue, either dryed and reconstituted or titebond hideglue. Nothing works better than hide glue for sinew. Animal protiens bond with animal protiens on a molecular level. Besides, hide glue is stronger than most glues.
I have seen and shot a few sinew backed bows that were made using TBIII glue. It doesn't give the same effects as hide glue but it is compatible with sinew and the bows shot well. Knox unflavored gelatin is actually refined hide glue and works well with sinew, is cheap to buy and is available at your local grocery store. Pat
Thanks every one. Another qustion now if I use the knox gelatin does it have to be heated like hide glue or can I just mix it up and apply. I am going to do it by myself so I dont want to have to rush it. Thanks again for the advise guys.
It need to be kept warm or it will gel up on you. If it is too hot it will shrivel the sinew. You want it the consistency of syrup and can add a little warm water to keep it that consistency.
Have everything ready and readily available. I keep a large pot of warm water near for hand cleaning and a roll of paper towels near. Have your sinew in workable bundles and conveniently stashed nearby. Pat
I always thought that hide glue (or knox gelatin) was the only options for sinew...and not the "bottled" kind either. I built a half dozen bows this way...the way everyone said it should be done. Well boys, I'm here to tell you old dogs can learn new tricks. This fall, I built two sinew backed bows using titebond 3, and they work superbly...and yes, the sinew still shrinks and draws your bow into reflex. I still like the way hide glue "gels" quickly when applying sinew...but there is a lot to be said about titebond 3 and the longer working time...and the less mess...and the ability to work it at room temperature...and the inherent weatherproofing it adds to the finished product. Both bows I built were mid-sixties in weight, and both are great shooters.
Ed Scott, of Owl Bows clued me into using this, and I have to give him the credit...and that man builds some real works of art in sinew.
I doubt I'll use hide glue anymore...seriously!
Here's a couple pics of the bows....I killed a couple deer with the flatbow. The other is a static recurve that is as fast as most glass bows. Both are 58" long, nock to nock, strung.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v508/woodwizard/newbows1.jpg)