I think I read somewhere about a takedown wood arrow. I was wondering if anyone could tell me about those? And wondering if someone has played with making a takedown carbon arrow?
Doug
A follow I know lives in a super rainy area and he has arrows that are takedown. It is a 12" wooden fletched area that can be stored away from the elements in a waterproof pouch, and then pulled out and slid partly inside an aluminum shaft that is 24" long and tipped with a broadhead. The resulting arrow is about 30"long and friction fitted together. He is a very skilled hunter and this system works for him.
3Rivers sells an arrow stretcher. It works well when you thought the arrow was flying perfect then stiffens up on ya. You can just stretch her back out and weaken that spine. Good to go.
In 05 I shot a couple of tournaments with takedown wood shafts I made up in a moment of inspiration , fitted with a 21;17 alloy shaft section friction fitted for 2 " on the point end and glued 2" for the fletch end . The join was in the centre of the shaft . Had 160 grain points for FOC high cut 4 " parabolic feathers and the arrows flew perfectly . In one shoot I made the top 10 barebow shootout , should have seen the crowds face when I got eliminated . I unstrung my bow fitted with a marine hatch hinge , folded her in half stuck it in my quiver and pulled the arrows apart and put it in with my bow . The looks on the compounders faces made my year .
Years ago, I used to cut aluminum's in half and use a a smaller diameter section of aluminum shaft to put them back together. Just used hot melt glue. They are a little stiffer but worked great and cheap way to use all your bent aluminum arrows. Just for kicks I tried multiple sections, really adds weight and strength to shaft...Doc
I made several aluminum t/d arrows that fly true. I used 2117's cut in center fitted together with a 4 inch piece of a carbon shaft. I also made some using 2213 shafts fitted together with a 4 inch section of 2018. I glue in one side and friction fit the other. Using these t/d arrows with a t/d 3 piece recurve you can put it all in a small bag and be completely in the "stealth mode" when traveling.
Joe Skipp has pictures I think. If I remember correctly it was a screw together adapter for wooden shafts.
Try and stay away from open glue and solvents a takedown arrow ? whats the point !
Hey Gord,
You might be right, maybe I should stay away from the holiday cheer as well ! The reasoning is, I hate quivers when hunting, all kinds of quivers, and I think I have tried most. I never shoot many arrows when big game hunting, and would like to keep one on the bow, and the rest in my pack, dry, out of the way, out of the brush, you get the point. A guy can always dream...right? I'm thinking a screw in adapter for carbons, just not sure I have the ***** to test them.
Doug
Im sorry would not try and get in the way of guys Dream why not dream a new Quiver for you to love
Gordon,
The point is others hunt and travel differently than you. Just because you don't see a use doesn't mean there isn't one.
I made set of T/D arrows for a guy 15 years ago because he travelled everywhere on his motorcycle. He needed something to fit in his secured saddlebags.
But I guess by your logic why build a T/D bow?
BTW- I build mine like Trooper but only with AL portions at the splice
Thanks for the responses.
Dan or Trooper, just wondering if you have had many splice failures? Does the splice effect spine much? Thanks again.
Gordon,
I have always referred to it as a "Quiver Problem" the reality is it is an arrow problem(in my mind). Most Quivers do as advertised, hold arrows.....Doug
I have a buddy who used to work for Paul at Screaming Eagle in the good ol days here in Missoula...he said some fella that used to come in there gave him some. I checked em out...Cedar (I think) joined in the middle by a very nice friction fitted piece of aluminum. The outer diameter of the two materials and the fit were so perfect, you could scarcely tell there was a seam if you ran your fingers down the shaft. Very cool!
-Rob
Anyone have any pics of these t/d arrows??I'd really like to see the transition/connection point.
wouldn't that be like footing the wood'n shaft with Alum, So you could use screw-in points?
I have seen some outstanding ones that Bob Burton had at a PBS gathering but I don't recall the details other than they were wood.
There is a shoulder cut in the wood shafting at the connection point the exact wall thickness of the aluminum, so that all will be flush on the surface when assembled. I'll see if Steve can dig those shafts out for a photo sometime in the next few days.
-Rob
I haven't tried them myself but I can really see the advantage of a T/D arrow on a backpack, horseback or Mt. lion hunt. The same goes for a two piece bow which I plan on having before I go on any of my next hunts like this.
Years ago, A man from my church who hunted all over the world and had a bow and arrows made up for him to go on a hound hunt for cougar. He had the takedown longbow (the first one I ever saw) The arrows were aluminum and had fittings in the tow sections, that screwed together. The sections were not the same length, was told that it made a difference with the spine and the paradox.
The whole kit was designed to fit into the back quiver. Evernt he quiver was special, it had a flap over it that enclosed the bow, arrows. THe idea was to go over hill and dale, mountain and everywhere chasing the dogs and the lion, and when you got there, you assembled the kit and had a bow and arrows.
Check out this thread:
Years ago I made takedown arrows by cutting an aluminum shaft in half. I installed an insert in each half. Epoxied in a 8/32 threaded rod in one insert that would thread into the other insert to hold the shaft together in the middle. They seemed to work ok. I never did any specific spine testing, but they did fly ok, never had the insert portion fail. I can't remember what I was trying to accomplish, may have been storage space in my canoe? The same should work with a carbon shaft.
The dual insert and threaded rod trick works but it adds a ton of weight in the middle and the arrow often doesn't come out as straight as the splice method.
If you check around you will find a current thread with directions.
I wanted to bring this back up to ask a few more questions, and advice. I have finally found a good splice size match for my carbons. I want to do a friction style splice, should I glue the splice piece on the nock end or the point end? How long should this piece be? I have long arrows, if you were going to make two slices per arrow, where would you make them? Ideally three equal pieces would be my choice. I'm just not sure if this would be the best structurally. This splice piece is a lighter spined arrow, I assume that is about the only way you can do it with carbon, do you think that will work? Carbon has a tendency to fray at cut edges, do you think a little glue or other product ?? on the edges, where the arrow comes together would help or hurt?.... thanks doug
I have a set as well,mostly for travelling. It is made with two aluminum sections fitting together in the middle of the shaft.
I secure the sections with some hot melt and can take them apart with a lighter flame.
I had a few funny looks when I took a little 4x13" tube out and said that I had 1 dozen of my hunting arrows in it.
Back when the first Rambo came out they also came out with a black bow (like Rambo's) and set of arrows that came apart.
The arrows that came with the bow came apart, but were still attached with a like bungee cord which would hold them together.
The bow and arrows were all black. I theik his were 2117 and I do not remember what brand name the bow was. They sure were cool looking.
Maybe someone here remembers.
Alan
I'd sure like to buy some take down arrows to throw in a backpack...
My friend in California got some t/d arrows from Carl at Oust composites. He makes carbon laminations and all kinds of things. The arrows my friend had were aluminum and had little lines or indentions pressed into the arrow the full length for stiffness and it slid apart in the middle. He hunts in Malibu and has to fit his bow and arrows in a little hiking backpack covert style so all the yuppies don't know he's hunting. Steve's taken deer right in movie stars backyards without them knowing about it. Shoots them and retrieves them at night. Totally legal but if the animal lovers found out they'd close hunting in the whole area.
"Totally legal but if the animal lovers found out they'd close hunting in the whole area."
Truth is we are all animal lovers. Some people worship them while others (us) enjoy them for what they are: A gift from God as a renewable natural resource.
Good for your buddy!
There was an article a few years back in TBM on making them, I believe they were made for a lion hunt in Montana, can't remember the date of the publication.
Bowhntr, do you remember what arrow material they were using?
I've heard about takedown arrows and decided to try and make some. The advantage to t/d arrows, for me, would be that I can hunt in the "stealth mode". There are woods connected to my subdivision that hold a small herd of deer. (I counted 13 one afternoon in August). I have to ride my bicycle through the subdivision to the edge of the woods. I tried that last season and was bombarded with questions from kids and adults as I rode my bike with a quiver full of arrows strapped to the handle bars. So I deceided to go completely underground with my hunting endeavors. In order to do that I developed a system that I think will work just fine for me and wanted to share with you.
I made two different sets of t/d arrows. The first set I used a 2213 shaft cut in half. I inserted a 6" piece of 2018 shaft glueing 3 inches into one end leaving 3 inches sticking out for the other half of the arrow to slide over and connect. I found that after a few shots the two halfs didn't fit as snug so I put a piece of scoth tape on the 2018 piece. I then pulled off the excess tape. The sticky stuff from the tape really made for a snug fit.
I also made some t/d arrows using 2117 shaft cut in half pieced together with 6 inches of carbon shafts. This set up really works well with the two pieces fitting pretty snug.
These arrows fly like darts out of my bow. I shoot a Fred Bear t/d recurve. I can put my bow, 6 arrows and a quiver in one of my girls school backpacks. (Two complete arrows with broadheads fit in a piece golfing tubing I got from Walmart which I cut to the length of the arrows.) So now when I ride my bike to the woods with a royal blue or pink backpack on my back no one has a clue what I'm up to!