I have been tinkering around with arrow making for about 8 months. I have tried different sealers and stains etc. I finally broke down and bought some dip tubes and the gasket lacquer system, and all Bohning products. I shoot Howard Hill bows 99% of the time and they like 5/16 shafts spined at 50-55 these are hard to come by. So I thought I'll make my own, I bought a compression block from 3Rivers. On my first attempt four broke but eight made it, this is what i have so far. I'm not bragging because there are a lot of you that make em better than me but these are the nicest arrows i have made so far. I even made a couple of flu flu's to shoot some squirrel's in the tree tops.
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y275/420W/IM000903.jpg)
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y275/420W/IM000901.jpg)
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y275/420W/IM000900.jpg)
Beautiful!
Easy to see in flight, easy to see where they hit.
Dress a quiver up nicely.
Time flies faster than the arrows when they are being built, doesn`t it?!
Heartbreaking when you lose or break one though.
(for me anyway)
I wouldn`t call it "tinkering". That is SERIOUS arrow building.
Those are beautiful arrows Stone Knife It shows how personal everyone arrows are great job
I have never used a compression block. How do they work and are they worth the investment?
Nice arrows Stone Knife.
Jim: Very nice arrows :0)
You should be very proud. Those look sweet!
All the best,
Glenn
Nicely done. I especially like the flu flu's.
This was my first attempt at using one. It cost $39.95 at 3Rivers. This is how it works, First you start out with a larger shaft than you want in the end, i went from 11/32 to 5/16 I was told you can start at 23/64 and go down to 5/16 but i haven't tried that yet. You will loose 3 to 5 pounds in spine going from 11/32 to 5/16 I'm not sure what will happen if you want down two sizes. So i wanted to end up with 5/16 spined at 50/55 so i began with 11/32 spined at 55/60, First thing i did was hand straighten the shafts you will have to do this over because they get crooked in the process. Net thing is to chuck up the shaft in a drill next time i will taper the end and install a old field point so i can tighten the drill more. next you have to heat the block up with a propane torch, getting it real hot but not red hot. Then start the shaft by the desired opening in the block and run the drill at full speed, feeding it slowly and steady, after a few you will get the hang of it. I broke four out of a dozen, the ones that broke had run-out in the grain. The ones that make it will be real tough. I think it is worth the money for me because i want 5/16 shafts at a heavier spine that i can get most of the time. The ones i made shoot like darts and time will tell me how tough they are, i like to stump shoot and small game hunt, both are tough on arrows.
Nice job Jim. Im itching to make arrows again myself....I doubt they will compare to yours though. Well done.
Good job Jim.... :thumbsup: :notworthy: :archer:
VERY NICE,I NEVER HEARD OF A ARROW COMPRESSOR BEFORE.I MIGHT TRY THAT. dang caps lock.. :campfire:
They are very nice looking arrows. :thumbsup:
Jack
Hey Stone Knive...check out Twig Archery. He has 5/16 ramin shafts (or used to) in stock in your spine range. Makes a very tuff arrow.
Hey Stoneknife, thanks for the assessment of your experience and tips with the compression block. I've been thinking of getting one myself. May just do it now.
Very nice work...and beyond "tinkering".
Killdeer :thumbsup:
Jim....Very nice once you start making them you will get hooked.I like your choice of colors they came out sweet,Im getting ready to make a doz...ED
We should all tinker so well..Nice arras.
Really liked those blue ones. Do the shafts ever de-compress? Why or why not? Has anyone ever checked? Just curious.
I have tried compression using a steel and wood compression block. The steel has to be hot before compression begins or it will grab the shaft and break it/ twist it into. The wood does does not require preheat as it will get to hot to handle during the process. The only draw back to using a wood compression block is after a few shafts it will enlarge and will not compress as tight.
The compression as they call it, is nothing more than burnishing the shaft.
Once the shaft comes out of the compression block it is smooth and shiny/burnished, hit it with steel wool and seal.
Owlbait,
I don't think it would be possible to uncompress the shaft. Well I'll take that back if you soaked the shaft in water for ??? the grain could raise but I don't think it would ever return to it's beginning size.
A guide system would to best to support the shaft coming out of the compression block. As it heats it will bend and flail about.