I know this has been beat to death on here. I just wanted to pass on some info. to those considering doing one of the two.
I thought I had tuned some GT 5575s for my cut to center recurve by bare shaft tuning. I am shooting 55#@28", 29.5", 200gr. upfront. The bare shafts never flew perfectly straight. But they were hitting where the fletched ones did. They were just a little nock left. Some have told me don't worry about the nock, just where they hit the target. Well I fletched them up and they seem to have had good flight. I shot at the local archery shop and was asked if I had shot them through paper...having not done that I tried it. They tore a 2" horizontal tear in the paper! I tried some 2016 aluminums and they were shooting perfect holes! Frustrated I went home and made up some GT5575s in 30" shafts with 200gr. upfront...went back today and still tore the paper the same way. I think I am going to switch to 2018s and forget the carbons. I don't think I want to try 3555s...? I just don't see any reason to when the aluminums fly so well. For me paper tuning told much more of the truth with the arrow than did bareshaft tuning. I have spoke with bowyers who I respect and they don't hold much faith in bareshaft tuning...now I know why. OK, let me have your thoughts..........
How close were you standing to the paper? And did you move back?
I've found that both GT 35/55 and 2016's at 29" long with a 125gr point fly awesome out of my 55# @28" recurves.
I currently shoot the GT 55/75 at 29" long with 260 gr up front and they fly very well with the same recurves as above.
You might want to add a little point weight to the 55/75's.
I am a fan of paper tuning. The whole purpose of tuning is the quickest possible recovery from archers paradox which = less lost energy. Paper tuning lets you see what is happening at two points, midflight and at the target.
Paper all the way.
Mike
When paper tuning trad bows you need to stand 10- 15 yards from the paper to start not the normal 5 yards like the wheel guys. Without a perfect release every time.... paper tuning will just frustrate you, and you will never get it right.
>DEERSLAYER---->
We did 5 yds. then moved back to 15 yds.
Bernie, maybe I should give the 3555s a chance.
Deerslayer, you can say that about bareshafting too.
snag.... It is almost impossible for the average archer to shoot pefect bullet holes through paper with Trad equipment, and this is why bareshaft tuning is the better way to go. The difference between paper tuning, and bareshaft is very little in the way of arrow flight, and 99% of the shooters out there are not good enough to tell the difference.
>DEERSLAYER---->
Well I sure saw bullet holes in paper at 5 yds and 15 yds with the aluminum shafts! I would think because they aren't fletched to stabilize the bareshafts they would react even more to your less than perfect release. With fletched arrows you actually see how they will fly....fletched!
when tuning,,,, i though a slightly weak bareshaft was desirable as fletching will stiffen the spine?
That is the way I understand it...? These 5575s were showing too stiff through the paper.
You can bareshaft a traditional bow...you just can't carry any preconceptions in with you when you do it.
And you need to be sure and check your tuning from more than one distance.
Snag
I shoot 50#'s at 29" from all my bows. I shoot GT 5575's cut to 30.5 inches long. I shoot with a 125 gr. tip up front. My arrows will bareshaft out to 30 yds and hit dead on where a fletched arrow does. It's impressive to watch for sure.
How much weight did you have up front on the 2016's? What length were they??
I would offer this up. Nock left means your arrow is underspined. Try removing some of that weight up front and see if that doesn't straighten things out a bit. I'd love to hear back from you.
I think you have something Otto. I think I have too much weight upfront. I will try this tomorrow a.m. The nock it left by 3" or so.
I have to agree with deerslayer, paper tuning is very tough without a perfect realease. It is not neccesary with point of impact bareshaft tuning as the arrow will still group close enough to see what needs t be done. Shawn
I think ya need more weight up front, when I shot 55/75s out of my 60# bow which were cut past center at 29"s long I needed 250 grains up front for perfect flight. Shawn
You can have perfect flight with bareshaft and FP. Don't forget to check the flight with BH!! that will be the determining adjustment.
The aluminum is shooting that good then go with it. Alum arrows have a much more diverse selection of arrow sizes to choose from and it sounds like you have hit the arrow spine/point weight that works. Aluminum shaft have always been easier to paper test than carbon for me. You will have a durability advantage with carbon, but it sounds like you have great arrow flight with the Alum.