Hello fellow trad guys!
First off, I'd like to say hello, as this is my first post. I'm a long time compound shooter, and bowhunter, and a first time trad shooter here.
I recently purchased my first trad bow, a Browning Wasp recurve.
I'd like to ask a number of questions that I have, and I would appreciate any help you guys could share with me, in order to help me get started shooting traditional!
There are more than just a couple questions, so I will number them, for ease of reply/response.
As soon as I can get these questions cleared up, I'll be well on my way!
As I said, I bought a used Browning Wasp recurve, 50#, 56" AMO.
Here are my questions:
1. Is the felt shelf on my bow, replaceable? It appears that I could take a heat gun and remove the felt, and stubborn glue, and put a new piece of felt on. (Not sure if this would work, nor what type of felt to use for replacement). The felt I have on the bow shelf now, works, but it's worn down at the point farthest back toward the arrow, and it's from the fletching contacting it repeatedly.
2. My bow shelf is not crowned/radiused. I can see the felt is worn away where the arrow fletchings contact the back of the riser/shelf area. I'm a fairly skilled carpenter/woodworker. Would it be possible or wise for me to just radius/crown the backside of the shelf myself, and then recover it with new felt? I would think it would be a good fletching clearance modification, as long as I don't sand down the very top, where the arrow actually rests, thus lowering the point where the arrow sets.
3. I'm assuming feather fletchings are the best way to go, as opposed to my plastic Bohning Blazer vanes I normally shoot with compounds. Can anyone recommend a good quality feather fletching for me to buy? (I have a Bitz jig I use often for regular vanes).
4. I know I need a "stringer" (I guess that's what it's called), for taking the bow down for storage. Do I just get online and buy any stringer, or do I need a specific one for my bows length??? Will any stringer be fine? As of now, I was planning on going to 3RiversArchery site, and checking out their stringer selections, to try and find one to buy.
5. Is it mandatory to ALWAYS take a recurve bow down (remove string) when not in use? What I'd really like to know, is whether or not this used bow is likely damaged, if the previous owner stored it with the string on for long periods of time. It appears fine, and does not appear to have any twist in the limbs/etc. However, I'm not so sure the previous owner ALWAYS stored this bow with the string removed. What can I do to be sure it's ok?
6. In regards to #5 above: Do you ALWAYS take your bow down EVERY night, NO MATTER WHAT??? How about when on a hunting trip? Do you leave the string on for a night or two, or is even a SINGLE NIGHT a big No-No????
7. I've read posts on other forums, where guys talk about "tuning a recurve". What exactly does TUNING a recurve bow consist of, aside from finding the nock point, and possible getting the right amount of twists in the string for proper AMO length?? I mean, is there even anything else possible that can be done, in order to "tune" a recurve bow??? No sight, no typical arrow rest, no D-Loop, No peep sight, etc, etc.
You get the picture.
8. Last question for now: How should I shoot with my cock feather? Cock feather UP, DOWN, or to the SIDE -(in or out??)
Sorry for all the questions guys. Sometimes I just get right down to the point I guess. I can really get into shooting this thing, if I just get a few questions answered.
i thank you guys for any and all help, it would really mean a lot.
Take care gentlemen.
im new to bowhunting without wheels too,but i'm pretty sure you can replace whatever covering is on your shelf now.
my bow came with the shelf already radiused, but ive read about people doing their own.
feathers are what you need, gateway or truflight are two i know of.
i dont know how to check out your bow, but if it's in good shape now, it wont hurt to leave it strung all the time, i just hang mine up horizontally , on the wall.
i think the risk of damaging limbs by unstringing is greater by far than the risk of damage from just leaving it strung[ as long as it's not in a bind or standing on one limb.
tuning is also adjusting shaft length, head weight, and adjusting the strikeplate or plunger left or right , to get the arrow to flex so that the fletchings either dont hit the bow , or hit as little as possible, so you can get better arrow flight.
there's more than one way people line up their fletches, i think quite a few put the cock feather straight at 9 oclock[ mostly just whichever way gets you the best clearance and arrow flight.]
like i said before, i am new too, but until some experts answer, i tried my best to explain .
hope a little of this might help some :)
1. Do not use a heat gun....ever. It should just peel off. If there's residual glue use steel wool.
2. You can if you want.
3. Tru Flight are hard to beat
4. Selway would be my choice....any stringer will fit your bow.
5. No. Just check to make sure limbs aren't twisted and there are no cracks in the limbs/riser.
6. No. Leave it strung as long as you are shooting regularly. Most damage is done by stringing/unstringing.
7. Hah! You've got some studying to do. Do a search here and on Pow Wow.
8. Generally cock in or out for 3 fletch.
Have Fun!!!
Guys,
Thanks so much! I've got to run to work, but I shall return. I did not realize the "POW WOW" forum was where I should have posted, so my apologies to the mods.
Thanks guys.
Good answers above that will get you well on your way. If it were me I would go ahead and radius the shelf before reapplying rest material as long as you have the skill to do that. For rest material felt will work well, and many people use the fuzzy side of a strip of velcro. Even comes with an adhesive backing! Another option would be a thin piece of leather, and to me the ultimate, although pricy, is seal skin (3Rivers carries it)
As to bow tuning it is a combination of using different spined arrows, building out the side plate, point weight, nock point height, and nock fit on the string. For the best tuning instruction and explaination I have found take a look at O.L. Adcocks website.
Have fun!
Welcome..
:thumbsup:
I use velcro on my shelf, I like leather also.
Welcome :wavey: :campfire:
Paul....
If you radis the shelf....Make the high point above the deepest part of the grip and by all means radis the front and the back....
More on #3 and #7.
The reason we use feathers rather than plastic vanes, other than just to be traditional, is because when we shoot off the shelf, there is generally some contact between the fletches and the bow. With plastic vanes, the arrow is pushed away from the bow, but the feathers just fold in and don't disturb arrow flight as much. What you have to be concerned about is contact between the quills and the bow, which would disturb arrow flight similar to plastic vanes. Some people, after they achieve good arrow flight with a bare shaft, will fletch a shaft and trim the feathers back to maybe 1/8", coat the edges with lipstick or something, and look for contact between the trimmed quills and the bow. They will then rotate the nock until contact is eliminated. I've found that most feathers work fine, and buy them in large quantities from places like Three Rivers Archery. I use a Bitzenberger fletching jig, because I like the helical twist it produces. It doesn't matter whether you use left-wing or right-wing feathers, but you do need to match left-wing feathers with a left-wing jig, etc.
As has been mentioned, you will find a lot on tuning, but the purpose is the same as with a compound: to achieve perfect arrow flight. We generally do this in the following order, although there is a certain amount of back and forth.
1. Set the brace height somewhere in the recommended range, planning to fine tune it later on. We do this by twisting the string.
2. Set the nocking point high to begin with, maybe 7/8.
3. Tune arrows for proper spine, using various methods. I use bare shaft tuning. Others use paper tuning, and some do fine tuning afterwards by moving string silencers around, etc. Overall arrow weight may be a factor in this, as most recurve bows have a minimum grains/lb of arrow weight that can be safely fired from the bow, and archers may have a desired arrow weight they are aiming for, such as 500 grains for a 55 lb bow.
4. Set the nock point lower until bare shaft porpousing is minimized.
First off, welcome to trad shooting, I suspect you'll find a profound new interest in archery and bowhunting ahead of you.
That said though, don't get in too big of a hurry trying to figure everything out. The responses above are excellent to get you going, but shooting a trad bow well enough to hunt with is going to take time. How much varies by individual. 6 months to a year or more is not uncommon. So be patient.
Stumbling into this site is the next best thing to finding an experienced shooter in your neck of the woods. If you don't know a trad shooter nearby I would suggest trying to find one and/or attend any shoots within driving range. The key is to get off to a good start and I think finding someone to help you avoid bad habits will make the journey a lot more fun and you'll likely get better faster too.
I owned a couple Browning recurves since the early 70's, great shooting bows. You're off to a good start with that Wasp. - eric
If you are not worried about rendering your bow unsaleable by taking a rasp to it, and if there is enough wood to work with, I would say ...Heck yes, get er done. I personally would rework the hand grip and radius both the shelf and riser. Take a look at the Pittsley Predator on their website (it is another name and I can't recall it, someone here will) to see how much you can change the shape of it.
I tend to use a piece of velcro fabric (not the hooks part) for the rug material. I use either a thin piece of leather or some sort of felt or moleskin for the riser cause the velcro tends to be a bit thick.
ChuckC
#2. Just common sense would seem to point to a radius shelf, but it seems I shoot just as well or better with the flat shelf.
Put a small piece of a rubber band under the shelf material and you have a spot for the arrow to ride on that also has a very slight give to it that may help in a bad release :bigsmyl:
:wavey: Welcome :wavey: You have already received alot of good info. use it
I have a book titled "Traditional Archery", by Sam Fadala, it is a great read and full of the information you seek. I highly recommend this book for anyone just getting in to trad. Shoot me a PM with your mailing address and I will send it to you...Terry
You're in Geogia! You've got a lot of comapny here. Be sure to log on to the Georgia website. You can get to it by clicking on "the state trad bowhunting sites" here on trad gang. Tad gangers are very active here in Georgia.
:campfire:
You can cut tooth pick also for under that shelf material , I prefer calf hair myself!...also I find bow quivers slow most bows down some. I like the strap type quiver (looks like bow quiver with strap post pic someone) ...practice with broadheads when possible alot...welcome!!!!!!!
This will help with the tuning.
http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm
Dennis
don't think i can say anything that has not already been said,WELCOME.
Guys,
I'm off to work, and was away yesterday, but I seriously thank EVERYONE for ALL this info.
I'm not really trying to figure it all out, but I did want to get a few things straight up front.
Anyhow, I really did not expect this much help, so I thank you guys so much!
I am looking forward to hanging out on this forum and taking in all I can.
Thanks guys. Terry, I'll shoot you a PM this afternoon when I return, and I'll certainly return the book to you if you wish! Thank you sir!
Gentlemen,
I'm at home for lunch today, and I wanted to take a second to ask if anyone can tell me what type of arrow I might use with my new recurve?
Is it just like the compound bow, where I want at least 5 grains of arrow weight per pound of draw weight? IOW, I'm shooting a 50lb recurve, so I need about a 250gr arrow? I know, I know, I doubt I could even get an arrow this light.
I need some QUALITY arrows soon, so if anyone can help me determine what type of arrow to use, that would be great. Are most of you guys shooting aluminums or wood arrows? I suppose the other option is carbon arrows with the woodgrain color??
I'm just trying to find a good QUALITY arrow that I'll want to keep and use for a long time, and something that might be a little more "traditional" than a black carbon arrow???
Do I figure arrow LENGTH, by drawing the bow back and trying to get the arrow to hang over the shelf about 1 full inch, when I'm at full draw???
Thanks guys.
no, you're gonna want something closer to 8-10 gr per lb.
Your draw length is what the arrow length is at the back of the bow. Anything over that is finger protection against broad heads and somewhat of a personal preference, but does affect the dynamic spine of the arrow. So its important to realize the effects of how much extra length you want. Most guys use about an inch though. Hope this helps. -eric
Ok deerfly,
You say "most guys use about an inch though".
Does this mean most guys are using about an inch hanging over the risers shelf at full draw???
Just want to make sure I'm understanding you correctly.
Thanks buddy.
Get some industrial Velcro at Wally World and make a new rest and strike plate. It wears like iron. Shawn
Well, I was just looking at the Seal Skin from 3Rivers, and was planning on buying some of that stuff to use.
I keep reading about "arrow plates", and "strike plates", etc, and I really don't know if this is something I will need to do or what?
I mean, the bow currently had some old fleece on it, on the shelf, and on the riser wall. There is not really any type of "strike plate" on the bow. Still a little confused about this aspect, and what I need to do.
I just spent a couple hours cruising the 3RiversArchery site, in a major ATTEMPT at determining what arrow lenght I need.
I think my head is spinning now. I am trying to determine how to figure what arrow type/length I need to go with. I just wish I knew for sure what to order. I really like the look of the cedar arrows 3Rivers sells, but I just don't know what size/spine/length to go with. It looks like the Tru Flight "Shield" fletchings will be what I need. They offer 4", 5", and 5.5" I think, and I am also trying to determine what size fletching to order as well. Man it sure would be nice to get with someone who could help me get an arrow set up, and get this bow set up.
Other issues are glove vs finger tab. Guess I'll just pick out one of each and see which works best. I kind of like the idea of a glove, but then I keep reading a lot of guys switched to a tab and obtained tighter groups.
I always thought compounds were the harder bows to set up, but those are much easier (IMO) than traditionals. I know it will all be easy once I get started down the right path though. I just don't want to drive you guys crazy with tons of questions..
Thank you guys for everything.
I think you can get test shafts from Three Rivers in various spines. You might want to order some test shafts, and learn to tune bare shafts using the links provided in earlier posts. Then you will know what spine of shafts to order for your bow.
Generally, you will want to cut arrows so they overhang about 1" beyond the bow at full draw. However, this is not as easy as it sounds if you plan to use wood arrows, since part of the tuning is to trim the shafts bit by bit as you shoot them until you arrive at the correct spine. But eventually you will arrive at a shaft of the correct spine that overhangs enough that a broadhead can be safely drawn to full draw. If all you intend to shoot are field points, then you don't need much overhang.
Don't worry too much about strike plates, etc. Your idea of radiusing the shelf to minimize fletch contact is probably a good one, but beyond that, you just tune the arrow to fit the bow. Just get something, like calf's hair or velcro that the arrow will slide over without too much friction.
I've always used 5" feathers, maybe for no other reason than they are in the middle of the sizes. But they have always worked fine.
Thanks McDave!
That helps me out, and give me a bit of relief here!
Maybe I will just go the carbon arrow route. I have worked with carbons for years too.
I was hoping there was some way to determine arrow length while sitting here at home, but I guess I'll try to visit my local pro shop to see if they can get my arrow length right.
I'll order some white arrow wraps, and white Tru Flight 5" "Shield" feathers, and hopefully I'll be on my way. I am super relieved that I might be able to just put the seal skin on the shelf and be good to go.
Now however, I'm second guessing the seal skin, as they 3Rivers site says to use "Barge Cement", and that does not look like something that will come off in the future without harming my bows finish. I was hoping seal skin just had an adhesive backing, and could be easily removed, without harming my bows finish.
Guess I'll have to go with something else that won't require an permanenent adhesive that will hurt my bows finish.
Thanks guys.
On the arra length,with carbons,start long and trim one a little at a time. They get too stiff fast! JMHO :thumbsup:
And I'm with Shawn,use industrial velcro for the sideplate and shelf.......