Trad Gang
Main Boards => Trad History/Collecting => Topic started by: Xavier on November 05, 2010, 11:52:00 PM
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After getting the bug to get back into archery after 15 years (basically a compound bow growing up) and acquiring a few older (like me) recurve bows AND a week of reading posts here, i'm ready for my first 'light' refinishing project.
I have a Pearson Gamster that i'm going to refinish- not sure of age? the logo and name look imperfect (GAMSTER - A is filled in and 7388 has an 8 filled in)
Couple questions:
i'm guessing the number under the strike plate i removed with nail polish is the 'actual' weight of the bow? 48 written in thick marker under top coat (marked #50 on handle with specs)
(nail polish worked great! i noticed with enough pressure it was starting to remove the finish)
any way to tell how old this is from serial number?
Thanks!
(http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd435/xtsouo/IMG_2640.jpg)
(http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd435/xtsouo/IMG_2644.jpg)
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i meant nail polish remover* of course
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I just brought up " Restoration 100" by BowDoc every thing you need is in that thread
doug77
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sweet - thanks!
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XX50 on the riser means 50 minus 2. 50XX would be 50 plus 2. See how it works?
DDave
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Yup - great info - that explains the 48 (slowly being sanded out - i started today).
I have a lot of catching up to do on "Restoration 101" - 49 pages wth!
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I have a Beaver Creek longbow bland on order so I will get to try my hand at shaping and finishing a bow this winter. It will be a double shelf bow as I shoot both right and left handed.
DDave
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Sorry, meant to type blank.
DDave
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So here is a pic of the gamester and a howatt coronado - i am slowly refinishing.
I had a question about a Browning exlporer II (second picture) - it has a center bushing (missing) for a stabilizer and another 2 above and below... what are those for? quiver?
(http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd435/xtsouo/IMG_2785.jpg)
(http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/dd435/xtsouo/IMG_2787.jpg)
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Anyone know where i can buy a replacement bushing for a Browning Explorer II? the center bushing (missing) and or the top/bottom bushings (as those are rusting)??
Thanks!
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You can get bushings and epoxy for glueing them in at 3 Rivers.
OkKeith
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Yup - 3rivers responded that they carry them.
Thanks!
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Now that i'm down to the last few coats - what is the difference between:
400 wet/sand vs. 0000 steel wool vs. green scrubby sponge.
I have read that wet sanding is most common - but are these other options comparable?
A friend that works on furniture mentioned the green scouring sponge.
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Xavier,
I have stopped using steel wool on any of my woodworking projects. 3M (the company that makes the green scrubbies) also makes sanding pads very similar to the pot scrubbers you mention. They come in various grits. For the final finish I use the 600 and then 1000 grit.
I got tired of the steel wool leaving particles and stains in light colored wood. Never had that problem with the pads. I get them at the hardware store or lumber yard.
OkKeith
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sweet - thanks.
this confirms - i have read several negative comments using steel wool.
thanks for the info.
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not only does the steel wool turn lighter color woods dark it will color strike lighter color bare figberglass turning it grayish looking I personaly don't like it eather.And just wait until your steel wooling your limbs and that darn steel wool snags the little tiny splinter on the edge of the fiberglass and now that little splinter is a long splinter.
Wet sanding or those green pads are fine.Wet sanding is best after your first coat of finish bd
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Good for you! I just refinished a Ben Pearson Colt and it's good to see them "pop" back to life. We forget how nice the bows of that age looked when new.
TradGang - Brushed Urethane (http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=004581)
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ok - so getting to the last coats i have been trying 400 or 600 wetdry (black color paper).
i am trying to dry sand lightly for lint and small stuff - but i'm having a hard time because small amounts of little white residue is balling up and kinda smears then i even that out... i think i am sanding off what i just sprayed on!
i am waiting 1 day for it to dry. it is cold tho. arghh.
anyway - do i need to just do the wet sanding? or maybe let it dry 2 days?
Part of my challenge too is the spray goes on thin - and i'm drying indoor at home (lint factory).
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That is a nice finish job! Stump. True that!
I just gave my nephew a vintage Colt for his Birthday! getting him into archery.
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Xavier,
Multiple thin coats with sanding inbetween will come out better than a few thick coats.
If the finish is balling up on you, your right, it's not dry.
You might try hanging it from a thin piece of string (10 lbs. test fishing line works well) in the shower with the door/curtian drawn. Use a slip loop on a nock. About as close to a paint booth I have ever come up with. The addition of a small heater in the room with the door closed will lower the humidity and provide a little faster dry time. Don't want it to dry too fast though.
When you sand the finish with light pressure, you should get very fine white dust. When you wipe down sanded areas with a damp cloth they ought to look pretty different than the unfinished areas.
Good luck.
OkKeith
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thanks for the info. - i'll go 2 days now before final sanding of last coats.
bathroom - yeah no lint - i'll have to talk to the wife about that one. heh.