Trad Gang
Main Boards => Trad History/Collecting => Topic started by: Cody Roiter on August 15, 2009, 08:53:00 PM
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Hello Guys, I am wanting to make my self a broadhead display case as well as a arrow display case.. I am looking for some ideas about how to make one...Any help would be great..
Thanks Guys,
Cody
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Cody..that is a great question. I've been wondering what the standard dimensions are for the broadhead cases.
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the case I made was created out of 1x2s I made it 12x18 used plexiglass and those small clips from 3rivers to hold the broadheads
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Cody, I emailed you some photos.Let me know if they didn't come thru.
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Hello Ron, I just got your emails.
Thanks,
Cody
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Mine are sized to use 30x36 standard cut size Plexiglas. Cutting Plexiglas is a real pain.
1x3" poplar lumber then stained pecan color, with a grove 3/8" back from the front for the Plexiglas. the back is Masonite, which can be painted white. The strips are 3/4x3/4" poplar. The clips will be the major expense, from most outlets they are 35 to 55 cents apiece. To build cases for hundreds to over a thousand heads this will break the bank. However the use of clips eases the movement of heads as the collection grows. You can use a wood strip with holes drilled in for the shafts. Then all the shafts have to be the same size and if they are not snug,heads will fall out when the cases are transported.
My cases are hinged and have latches to hold them closed, plus handles for carrying.
When you build the first case think about this: do I want the other six cases in the future to look the same?
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1250452761.jpg)
Close up of the groove (left side) for the Plexiglas
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1250452879.jpg)
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I need to make three (two for BHDs and one for arrows) more of the large double cases and one more of the small cases. Estimated cost is about $300 for all material. I forgot to mention that I installed brass corner caps on all corners. My cases were on display at three events per year for ten years and I knew when I built them they had to endure a bunch of handling.
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Raghorn. That is a great display set up.. Great photo's.. Some very nice looking stuff as well..
Cody
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Roghorn - Nice display, great photographs.
The slide in from the top grooves are nice and simple for plexiglass. Gravity is a great guide to get things to fall in place.
How do you cut the plexiglass? I just clamp a 72" long metal straight edge where I want the line and scribe it several times with a plexiglass scribber, then make the controlled break. Takes a few minutes, but works perfect every time.
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Cody,
This is another display case with a slide in from the top plexiglass front. It is roughly 3'x6' made from 1x3 Oak for sides and 3/8" plywood back covered with green felt. The large size is great for bows or arrows and gives a lot of flexibility for what can be displayed.
Down side is that they are heavy and cumbersome to transport. Items show up better on an off white or ivory background rather then the green felt.
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo301/WadePhillips/bp001-1.jpg)
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This case is the same basic size. As you can see, items show up better with an off white painted background trimmed with stained wood...
There is a bow in the center of the display.
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo301/WadePhillips/1.jpg)
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Raghorn..Thanks for the info, nice pics and displays. Great looking collection.
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Wade..great pics and displays. Thanks for your info.
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These are some of my oldest cases. Each side is roughly 3'x3' and has a hinged door that has a lock. Very time consuming and expensive to make. A little heavy and awkward to carry and transport. The arrow clip arrangement inside is very poor. I should be beaten for not improving this before now.
First the clips should be on a 3/8" thick wood strip so the 4 blade heads do not have to be turned at an angle and sometimes angled forward.
Second the 1-1/2" spacing between clips should be staggered between rows to permit the longest heads to protrude into the space above.
Several of these old cases still need to be changed over to have the staggered clip arrangement, which is an improvement that has become widely accepted within the past 20 odd years.
The hinged door wastes a lot of space around the edges. The legs also waste space at the bottom. Another row could be added by eliminating the door and expanding the case to the bottom.
As you can see in comparing these cases to Raghorn's, his cases utilize the same space far more effectively.
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo301/WadePhillips/BHD-CASE-1.jpg)
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These are a couple of arrow cases, exactly 36" x 36" x 2-3/4". Made from 1/2" thick oak with 1/4" thick plywood back. The 1-1/2" wide oak strip for the arrow clips provides a lot of additional strength. These cases are surprisingly light weight and strong!!!
Arrows are spaced at 1-1/2" but could probably be moved to 1-1/4" without being crowded.
Actually 34" width will accommodate most arrows so cutting a couple of inches off the side and adding it to the top and closing in the spacing could increase the capacity from 23 to 30 arrows and still have a very strong and light weight arrow case.
The plexiglass screws to the front (sorry no logical explanation comes to mind to justify why I did that). This could be improved with Raghorn's slide in from the top slots. The depth could probably be decreased from 2-3/4" to 2-1/2 or a bit less.
Each arrow has a small number on a sticker that corresponds to the description written on the 6"x7" paper in the center of the display. This is great for the display but down side is that the text needs changed and the 6"x7" paper needs to be replaced every time an arrow changes position...
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo301/WadePhillips/ARO-CASE.jpg)
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Bow display cases are a little easier to make than broadhead cases. Accepted width is 24", depth is usual 2" and height is what ever is needed for the bow length. Back is light weight material that can be drilled into to accommodate holes for secure bows to felt back. Hinges and clasps complete the set up. Haven't come up with a good way to make a plexiglass cover. Slide from top can be a pain with so much length. Have thought of side in from the side but have not tried it yet. Maybe some one has a better idea...
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo301/WadePhillips/bow-case.jpg)
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Wade-I really liked your display cases you had at Compton a few years ago.Looked like bowcases lying on a table opened up with plexi-glass over them.Made a nice display but kept hands out of the items displayed.How did you put the plexi-glass in those,I can't remember but I like the idea.
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Ron and Wade, thanks for your input on Cody's question. It sure eliminates a bunch of guesswork for the rest of us.
When I can finally fill up one case I'll know how to make it ;)
Trap
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Looking really good guy's!! I just started collecting BH's so I was wondering the same thing as Cody. I think we have some great ideas now to get started on displaying them. Thanks..Henry
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Guys, where can I get some arrows clips for the inside of my diplay case ?..
Also this may be a bit over the top but I was thinking about putting a small ligth inside the display case. I didnt know if any of you guys have done that and didnt know how it worked out..
Cody
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John - Yes, the idea was good but the functionally of my pathetic design proved to be a nightmare. Those 2004-05, 2'x6' horizontal bow cases that were set on tables were an experiment that proved what not to do with plexiglass covers on any display case...
I grooved the edges (like Raghorn's cases) but made the plexiglass slide in from the side for the whole 6' length.... big mistake... It would be far better to have the plexiglass slide in from the top (or the long edge).
I never stained or finished the cases as I never cared for them because the long slide in plexiglass was a pain. If a guy never opened them they would probably be just fine.
All of the displays in these 4 cases need to be updated and rearranged so I may just completely empty them and rebuild them into cases that are better suited to frequent opening...
Now of course if you want to make me an offer on all 4 of them... I could always just start over and build some new ones from scratch...
Maybe someone else has a better idea about how to cover a 2'x6' case with plexiglass... then the simple slide in from the top method...
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo301/WadePhillips/BOW-STC.jpg)
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Cody - Raghorn can probably tell you the best place to find arrow clips today. It has been many years since I bought any arrow clips.
I like the large arrow clips. They are more expensive but will work great for any size shaft. The smaller less expensive ones jut don't work for all size shafts.
The small ones also have sharp edges that scrape paint off of arrows and make knuckles bleed. Those sharp edges are a real pain...
If anyone likes the small ones, I just found 244 small ones, that I would be happy to trade for large ones.
Let me know how you want to trade, 3 small ones for 1 large one... or what ever sounds good to you.
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo301/WadePhillips/CLIPS.jpg)
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Thanks Wade, I will wait to see what Raghorn has to say..
Best,
Cody
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Wade, If I do use the felt do you glue it down to your back of your display board ?... Also would plywood be better then OSB board ?..
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Cody, the last time I bought it was from Larry Whiffen, check with him at [email protected]
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Cody:
If you plan on moving your cases- like to Compton or wherever the ABCC annual meet is at- then you need to think about weight. Masonite or panel board is plenty strong since it will be screwed around the edges and all the horizontal/vertical strips are also screwed to the back. I used white formica-like finished panels, I think these were designed for bathroom use? Mine are set into a routed recess in the back inside edge to the panel is flat. The light seems like a good idea but remember that it shines from only one direction, will it light the whole case?
Perhaps another idea is to have spot light/track lites.
If you use felt you can use spray adhesive on the board then lay the felt down.
Clips....you can do a search of the internet but this can be frustrating. Possibly the correct name is cabinet clap, door clip. Or you could see what price you can get from 3Rivers if you buy 500to 1000. Remember I said these large clips run from 35 cents to 55 cents apiece? However, Wade's point about the sharp edges on the 5/16 clips( on the left in his photo) is correct. The large clip also has a range of adjustment depending on how tight the mounting screw is.
The smaller clip is about 15 cents each then you have to buy the screws. Email me as to where to purchase the small clips.
Here's the backside of my case.
(http://images.imagelinky.com/1250537055.JPG)
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Cabinet door clips, why didn't I think of that. I will check out some catalog sources and find out bulk prices.
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Cody - I just squirt out Elmer's glue on the plywood, then smear it around with a putty knife and set the felt in place by smoothing it out, starting at one corner. Raghorn's spray on adhesive probably does a more consistent job.
This is one of the cases I made in 2008, 42" tall x 34" wide. Each side splits in the middle. Made from Oak, very heavy, a bit expensive and time consuming to make. Not very tough. Easy to get into each side with lockable door. Yellow felt shows off heads but a bit flashy to the point that it almost takes away from the contents of the case. 34" wide near ideal for arrow display. The case is a mess because it is my traders and never stays full very long.
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo301/WadePhillips/CASE.jpg)
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Wade, I do like that display case.. That is what I been thinking as it would be all in one and not two or three display cases taking up room..
Where do you buy your felt from ?..
Best,
Cody
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Nice show Wade,How about some new cases, But you would have to know someone with a sawmill LOL
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Cody - I buy the felt from a local fabric store.
Actually I don't care much for felt as a background in a display case, far to flashy for my very primitative tastes.
My preference is a simple burlap background painted ivory or paraffin. Some texture with the elegance of old museum quality.
Frank - You'll have to give me a quote for some nice boards for a new batch of display cases.
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Thanks Wade, I didnt even think about buying it from a fabric store...
Wade can you get burlap from a fabric store ?...
As I am thinking burlap feed bags..
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Cody - Burlap from a fabric store is in a roll just like other fabrics. Just smear glue on the back and stick on burlap and let dry for at least a day before painting. Would guess a burlap feed sack would work just fine if it is large enough. If you have to use more than one feed sack, seams may be able to be hidden by the wooden strips for clips.
Depending on the paint, it may take 2 or 3 coats for the burlap as the fabric soaks up the liquid. Paint your strips for the clips the same color as the burlap before installing the clips, then screw the slips to the back.
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Thanks Wade, I going to get a start making it later tomorrow some time..I have the side boards and the back board.. I just need arrows clips, and fabric and glass.. Do you guys think adding a light inside would be over the top ?.. As I been thinking of adding one.. I think I will copy your dipplay Wade The one where your arrows are on one side and your heads are on the other..
Thanks for the help guys,
Cody
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Cody - If you the make the cases 34" x 42" x 2" or 3" deep a light inside the case may not do a lot of good. Really can't say for sure. Have seen hundreds of 2" or 3" deep broadhead display cases but don't remember any with a light inside. Some of the much deeper rotating cases have lights, something like you would see at a jewelry store display.
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Cody -
You can just paint the back of your display white which is the easiest and certainly one of the best ways to do make a display. I renovated this display case by removing all the clips and painting the boards with white paint. The case was one of five of Floyd's original broadhead and arrow displays. Nice to look at but the items are not covered with glass so I use it for fish points now...
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo301/WadePhillips/FISH-1.jpg)
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Cody, you have been bitten by that dreaded broadhead collecting bug, remember we did try warn you that its addicting....Good luck with your collecting.
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Ron-LOL Yes my friend I been bitten hard by the collecting bug.. But like my dad tells me I could be sending that money on other things ( I sure you guys know what he talking about) But as you all know I love the archery History.
Wade, I was thinking would just taking white drawing paper work as well or look good at all and I have to do is glue it to the back board ?.. Or would painting look better ???..
Cody
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Cody - White paint would be better than drawing paper as the paper would probably get punctured and cut from the broadheads as well as getting dirty from the oil and dirt on the heads. Paint cleans up a lot easier than paper.
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I haven't had any luck finding any info on the cabinet door clips. All the sources on the internet so far do not show the old style door clips :banghead:
Will pass on any info I find.
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Are the clips that 3 River's sells the good ones or are they the small ones?
$55.00/100 there.
Trap
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Trap - Just checked the arrow clips on 3 Rivers. They are the good style, adjustable and larger...
http://www.3riversarchery.com/product.asp?i=4234X
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I'm pretty sure I've found the source for arrow clips. If we can get 1001 ordered we can get them for .34 each plus shipping. PM me if you're interested in getting in on a bulk purchase.
The next break in price is for 5000 or more. Not sure we can hit that but I'm confident we can find enough folks to make the 1000+ order.
I sent the info to Wade and I'll wait for him to confirm that they are the correct clips.
Trap
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I will need a few, everyone tried to warn me :help:
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LOL, we have enough commitments to get the discount, but I'll wait till next week to see if some other people want to get on board.
Trap
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Trap - Yes you have the correct arrow clips, the one shown on the right. It can be adjusted to accommodate various shaft diameters. When tightening or loosening the screw, the amount of tension on the bottom of the clip, determines the distance between the two arms and their tension on the shaft.
The adjustable arrow clips on the right are far better then the smaller ones that is shown on the left...
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo301/WadePhillips/CLIPS.jpg)
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Trap, put me down for a thousand.....Thanks...Hink
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I don't collect AMO 8-32 Screw-In heads, but here is a hint for those who do collect them...
Most collectors agree that adjustable arrow clips work best for displaying traditional glue on broadheads.
For those who collect the AMO 8-32 Screw-In heads, the simple shadow box design works well and is far less expense and less work than using arrow clips, threaded bushings and lengths of shaft material.
The threaded base of the AMO 8-32 fits into a hole in the horizontal boards.
If blades are glued into the body, AMO 8-32 Screw-In heads are easily moved from one position to another.
The most restrictive feature of the shadow box design is the length of the heads. While AMO 8-32 Screw-In heads almost always easily fit in the shadow box height of 4-1/8" between boards.
Many traditional heads are far too long to fit in the 4-1/8" space between the horizontal boards.
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo301/WadePhillips/d5c2a3fe.jpg)
Heads are easily moved from hole to hole...
(http://i386.photobucket.com/albums/oo301/WadePhillips/57adfbf6.jpg)
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Wade..great info on the shadow box display.
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Rick - Some guys who collect the AMO 8-32 Screw-In heads as well as the Traditional heads, keep the two styles in separate display cases.
Using a shadow box design display case for the AMO 8-32 Screw-In heads saves them a lot of time, money, and space.
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TTT for the broadhead collector's.
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Wow , those are some impressive collections.
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TTT for the broadhead collector's.
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TTT for the broadhead collector's. :thumbsup: