Trad Gang
Main Boards => Trad History/Collecting => Topic started by: Bakes168 on May 28, 2008, 10:38:00 PM
-
I just bought an old Bear Kodiak from '65, I think...
Anyway the bow has some dings and scratch's and the finish looks pretty worn. There is also a very very small crack (you can barely feel it with your fingernail, but you can see it) on the lower belly of the limb and I was wondering if this is anything I should worry about? (Sorry no pics)
Also, is there any way that I could refinish the bow and make it look nice and smooth again?
If so then please share any info, tips, links or other posts that relate to this.
Would Thunder Bird finishes work?
Thanks guys
Bakes
-
Bakes
There is a pretty good thread in the pow wow forum right now.
Seal the cracks with crazy glue.
I have not used thunderbird I hear its great,done a few with true oil they came out good.
Kurt
-
One thing I always like to do before striping the old finish off.I only use loc tite formula super glue myself.I inspect from tip to tip and kinda try and fix all the little dings and stress cracks first and let them dry over-night.Yes I know the SG will dry in about 5 seconds,but if you are sanding around fresh SG it will sometimes collect a little dust..Then after striping off all the old finish you may have to repair a few new spots you will find and some of the already repaired ones may need another drop or two of loc tite.Makeing the repairs before sanding will also help keep dust out of the cracks and dings,as they will be sealed with the SG..I read the post on the main forum where someone mentioned 220 grit sand paper....I actually start with 100 grit...not saying thats what you want to do....but 220 takes a while to completely remove all of the old finish.100 on the other hand will cut the sanding time in half.I finish off with 150...reasoning behind this is to have a good surface for the new finish to stick to ie a little roughed up but smooth if you will.If your to be finished surface is really sanded super smooth,your new finish does not stick as well.The 150 sanded finish is a bit harder to get the pours all filled but makes a nicer job and last much longer.As you apply your new finish you may want to use wet dry sandpaper inbetween coats something like 600-1000(scotch-bite pads or steel wool can also be used,but ???)) pending on how nice of finish you are trying to achive...You can also get a set of replacement transfers to replace the silk screens on Bear bows which makes the bow look actually better then factory original silk screens did.There brighter and crisper then the silk screens...Keep us posted on how it's going..............bowdoc
-
Your best bet, if you want it done right, just ship it to Bowdoc.
-
I have a bow I'm working on....brown glass, no cracks or stress line, but a few light scratches. I've steel wooled the limbs and have the scratches smooth enough so you can't feel them, but there are white looking. there are several places that have white spots no bigger than a pin head that won't come out with steel wool.
Do I need to be more aggressive, use sand paper to remove all the finish on the limbs and go from there with a complete finish?
Thanks,
Billy
-
I really appreciate all of your guy's help and advice but if I really want to refinish this bow I'm going to need some more in-depth information.
Things like what types of finishes or oils to use. What exactly the finish is and how to take it off, and how to know when I have it off.
I feel like I'm asking a lot but what I really need is a step-by-step process on how to refinish a fiberglassed backed bow, preferably with pictures.
I'm not asking any of you to to this right now (if you can it's fine).But if anyone has any good books to recommend, links, other posts, or just has anything that would help out a rookie that would be great.
Thanks guys, I really appreciate it
Bakes
-
Zach, there is a thread near the top of theis page with some good info. Kenny's thread inspired me to try my hand at refinnishing a bow.
Alot of great tips in the thread from some of the best. There are other threads such as the Tru-Oil on limbs thread that is near the top of this page as well.
You can also do a search to find more both here and in the pow wow section.
Trap
-
Zach
Read up like Trap said.
Then post pictures and ask your questions as they come.
There are master craftsmen here, that have helped a ton of people (like me) with step by step refinishes.
Good luck
Kurt
-
Hey Billy switch over to 600-1000 grit wet dry sandpaper...The steel wool will nearly never get those little pits out...Wet sand the pits smooth by feathering them back.A second thought would be to strip the bow of the old original finish completely.That way you get rid of all the pits at once....keep us posted,bowdoc
-
Ok guys.....I have two 55 Kodiaks I was refinishing during all the questions, and I really appreciate all the help and advice. The bows came out great. Finished with 8 coats of Tru-Oil. The leather wraps aren't prefect by any means, but I think I'm going to leave them on, although I did buy new wraps. I did replace the arrow shelfs and strike plates.
The finish job came out really good (for me anyway)...8^, but it is a little too shiney, and I'd like to tone the gloss down a bit....so...what is the best way to knock the glare off, and do I need to wait a certain period of time before doing it?
Thanks again fellers....the guys on here are a veritable warehouse of information, and all the tips and advice were greatly appreciated.
Billy
-
1 more question....how long does the last coat of Tru-Oil need to cure before using a stringer...selway, rubber block....I'm anxious to see how these puppies shoot with the new finish, cause I know they gotta shoot better then ever.
Billy
-
I go over them real lightly with 0000 steel wool and then use a polish (some use car wax)to bring back a little sheen. Gives it that hand rubbed finish look. I think wet 2000 grit sandpaper would also work.
Even heard someone talking about using a brown paper bag. Krinkle it up alot and then rub the bow down with it.
Trap