Post by: Steelhead on April 14, 2009, 02:34:00 PM
My brother is going Cape buffalo hunting.he will be shooting a 80 # Morrison Shawnee with Dakota limbs made of carbon and foam.He has a 28 inch draw and arrows will be 29 inches long.
For a broadhead I am looking at a 315 grain Ashby 2 blade head
What would be a good carbon arrow to match this head up with?I am looking at the gold Tip big game and Alaskan Safari right now.Any other suggestions on another shaft welcome.
Let me know and useful tips on setting the arrow up to get in the ballpark for spine and what total grain weight he should be looking to get on the finished arrow.
Thanks for any feedback!!!
Post by: Rick McGowan on April 14, 2009, 06:12:00 PM
Post by: Steelhead on April 14, 2009, 09:10:00 PM
What poundage is your bow Rick?
Any other suggestions welcome guys.This is a work in progress and the more information the better.After I get some ideas we will be testing them and see what works best out of his setup..
Thanks Rick
Post by: ozy clint on April 14, 2009, 09:21:00 PM
i got a g/t big game 100+ to work out of a 69# recurve drawn to 28". but that was at full length and with a ridiculus amount of weight up front. total is 1010gr! with no weight tubes. i would have thought that they would work on a heavier bow.
i agree that it is difficult to come up with a 900+gr carbon arrow that will work out of a 80#+ bow.
Post by: Tilzbow on April 14, 2009, 11:11:00 PM
Take a look at the new Easton Full Metal Jacket dangerous game shaft. I'm not sure if the spine is heavy enough but at .250 deflection they're the heaviest spined arrows I know of. The shaft alone will weigh 500 grains at 29".
Post by: Steelhead on April 15, 2009, 02:10:00 AM
Anyone else
Appreciate it!
Post by: Rick McGowan on April 15, 2009, 09:26:00 AM
The carbon inside adds LOTS to the spine, normally I shoot the 2219's out of a 63# bow. I do wrap a spiral of cotton blend sewing thread around the GT, before I push it in, that makes it a snug fit and it dosn't "buzz" in flight, it also raises the spine a bit more, I'd guess about 5#.
To give you and idea of what is involved, I probably have $350 worth of failed buffalo arrow experiments sitting over in the corner of my office. Some of them in fact work great, but you just can't get them on a reliable basis and some of them are probably collectors items!
Cory Mattson, whos photo is at the top of this page, just copied my arrows exactly, he was using an 85# Brackenbury.
The problem with the majority of the big/dangerous game arrows is that they are designed for heavy weight compound bows, not trad bows, hence the reason the GT's "100+", supposedly they are for bows over a 100#'s.
Post by: Al Kidner on April 15, 2009, 10:54:00 AM
It was a top read but I think buff arrows and bow may have been some overkill!
I'll have to look it up when I'm home next and re-read it.
ak.
Post by: Rick McGowan on April 15, 2009, 12:32:00 PM
Post by: Al Kidner on April 15, 2009, 12:36:00 PM
I know how you feel about the crows too.
ak.
Post by: Steelhead on April 15, 2009, 04:25:00 PM
Sounds like the 2219 stuffed with a GT is a pretty easy arrow to set up and duplicate.I will be looking into that combination.What is your fletching setup on that arrow.Regualar or high back, lenght and style of fletching and 3 or 4 fletch etc.
Post by: Rick McGowan on April 15, 2009, 05:50:00 PM
Post by: Rik on April 15, 2009, 06:17:00 PM
I used Ipe on two buffalo in Australia with great penetration. Plus, like Dr. Ashby's report says, heavy wood shafts have less breakage on impact with heavy ribs than either carbon or aluminum shafts.
Mine were ultra-straight, spined at 75 pounds, and weighed 860 grains with a 160-grain Grizzly. You can easily order higher spined and heavier ones.
If you want them with more weight forward, I saw some glue-on weight-forward adapters at 3-Rivers that would be just the ticket.
Post by: Steelhead on April 16, 2009, 01:31:00 AM
Where can you get heavyspined heavy wieght Ipe arrows Rik.investing in a dozen shafts sounds like it would be realatively low cost and worth a test drive.Are they 11/32 or 23/64 or fatter?
Thanks fellows
Post by: Rick McGowan on April 16, 2009, 07:49:00 AM
Post by: Jay Campbell JD on April 16, 2009, 08:12:00 AM
Post by: Steelhead on April 16, 2009, 01:17:00 PM
I appreciate your input!
Take care Jay
Post by: ozy clint on April 16, 2009, 06:21:00 PM
is the ACX that much more efficient or does your wife have a draw 4" longer than yours?
also, what carbon were you putting in the 100+?
Post by: Jay Campbell JD on April 16, 2009, 09:05:00 PM
Post by: ozy clint on April 16, 2009, 11:23:00 PM
Post by: Tilzbow on April 16, 2009, 11:50:00 PM
Last winter I was playing around with an arrow similiar to what Jay described and I was have trouble finding shafts to fit inside of shafts when OL Adcock recommended Aerospace Composite Products and they carry a bunch of different sizes of carbon tubes that will work great.
For a gold tip I think the .254 OD would work since the ID of a GT is .256. I would order one of the .240 and one of the .254 and see which worked best. Gorilla glue will fill in the extra space of the .240. Check out this website for more info:
http://www.acp-composites.com/home.php?cat=4663
Post by: Steelhead on April 17, 2009, 12:52:00 AM
i will keep you in mind Jay and have my brother talk to you sometime before his hunt comes up.He may want to hook up with you and do some testing.I Pmd you before and My bro lives down the highway from you a short drive.Thanks again for your response!
Post by: Jay Campbell JD on April 17, 2009, 07:13:00 AM
RE: the gorilla glue: I roughed the inside of the shaft with a .223 brush full length, cleaned it with alcohol, then dish soap and rinsed with water. Same for the insert package. I used an insert rod, coated it with Gorilla Glue, and swabbed the entire length of the inside shaft with glue. This is to keep the insert from breaking loose and travelling backward. I coated the insert package and put it in (remember to have the inside of the shaft wet, and the insert package wet - GG cures chemically by interaction with water, not by air-drying).
Once the package was assembled, and excess glue wiped (use gloves, cloths - GG is BAD if it gets on your hands), I put the shafts point side down with the feather ends stuck inside an upside down boot for pressure. This is enough. I never had a problem with the inserts being forced out from the GG expansion. These arrows are incredibly strong. - Jay Campbell, JD
Post by: Rick McGowan on April 19, 2009, 02:41:00 PM
Post by: michaelschwister on April 19, 2009, 05:48:00 PM
Mike
Post by: michaelschwister on April 20, 2009, 08:42:00 AM
Mike
Post by: Smallwood on April 21, 2009, 04:09:00 PM
Post by: BUFF on April 21, 2009, 05:28:00 PM
Post by: Jay Campbell JD on April 23, 2009, 09:28:00 AM
Post by: marlon on April 27, 2009, 05:55:00 AM
Post by: rnharris on April 28, 2009, 03:03:00 PM
this may be weak in spine??
Post by: tradtusker on April 30, 2009, 09:39:00 AM
as for "overkill" in my opinion that does not exist when it comes to hunting Buff!
Post by: Steelhead on April 30, 2009, 12:48:00 PM
Post by: rnharris on April 30, 2009, 12:57:00 PM
Post by: Steelhead on April 30, 2009, 01:40:00 PM
Post by: jcar315 on April 30, 2009, 05:10:00 PM
Post by: Steelhead on April 30, 2009, 11:14:00 PM
Post by: Tilzbow on May 03, 2009, 08:31:00 PM
I was in an email conversation with Markus at German Kinetics discussing my personal frustration with trying to find a shaft that's stiff enough for my long draw to load up with more than 150 grains on the front end....
Anyway through that conversation he recommended Carbon Tech Safari shafts which are .200 spine and 15.5 grains/inch. These might just do the trick for a dangerous game shaft for guys would don't have a 31" draw. If they are stiff enough to load up on the front end with 300 to 400 grains and still tune well they might get you in the ball park without complicated assembly.
Post by: Steelhead on May 04, 2009, 12:17:00 AM
Thanks Tilzbow
Post by: rnharris on May 04, 2009, 09:18:00 AM
Post by: Steelhead on May 04, 2009, 11:58:00 PM
Post by: rnharris on May 05, 2009, 09:05:00 AM
Post by: LONGBOWKID on May 12, 2009, 11:54:00 PM
Post by: EasyEd on May 20, 2009, 04:58:00 PM
I just read the responses to your questions on Cape buffalo arrows and would like to add some comments and make a suggestion. Over the last 6 years, approximately 40+ of my customers have taken Cape and Asian buffalo with our GrizzlyStik arrows and broadheads. This does not include hippo, giraffe and elephant. Some bowhunters have reported pass through’s on a Cape and elephant. No one has reported lost game because of inadequate arrow penetration. A 950 grain GrizzlyStik Safari is proven to consistently do the job on the Cape without needing any weight tubes, lead wire, special inserts, inner shafts, etc. And now with the addition of the one piece, stainless steel Ashby broadhead, the GrizzlyStik is even more effective. References are provided at your request. Take a look at my web site, www.alaskabowhunting.com, (http://www.alaskabowhunting.com,) and drop me an email or give me a call.
Cheers,
Ed Schlief
Alaska Bowhunting Supply
Post by: Steelhead on May 21, 2009, 01:21:00 AM
Appreciate it!
Post by: amar911 on May 21, 2009, 07:49:00 PM
!["[dntthnk]"]("graemlins/dntthnk.gif" "\"\"")
Allan
Post by: Steelhead on May 21, 2009, 10:39:00 PM
Thanks for the comments.
Post by: Don Thomas on May 23, 2009, 10:49:00 AM
Post by: amar911 on May 23, 2009, 03:24:00 PM
I don't really disagree with you, but unfortunately I can't draw an 80 to 85 pound bow, and an 1100 grain arrow is much slower out of a 68 pound bow. So, in order to get more efficiency out of a lighter bow and a lighter arrow, extreme FOC and Ashby broadheads help. I would gladly trade your strength and equipment for mine, but even if it were possible, you wouldn't agree to it! :notworthy:
Have fun hunting the bears.
Allan
Post by: amar911 on May 23, 2009, 03:25:00 PM
Thanks for the encouraging words.
Allan
Post by: ozy clint on May 24, 2009, 11:58:00 AM
Post by: amar911 on May 26, 2009, 01:13:00 AM
Allan
Post by: BUFF on July 20, 2009, 03:05:00 PM
Post by: Steelhead on March 25, 2010, 01:16:00 AM
Arrow Dynamics has just come out with a new heavyweight carbon arrow.Its 475 grains as a bare shaft.Its intended for bows of 70 pounds and heavier.It can be loaded up with 350 to 400 grains and easily achieve over 800 grains arrow weight.It can be rear loaded as well for more additional weight on the back end.
Badger Arrow is carrying them and is a sponser on this site.If you want to look further into these arrows contact them.
Thanks for any and all information recieved on my Buff arrow search so far.I am sure some people other than myself have been getting ideas on how to set up a Buff arrow or arrows for any larger bigger boned animal when they want all the strength,power and penetration that they can get with the proper choice and overall design of the arrow with these special purposes in mind.
Shoot straight
>>>--------->
Post by: Steelhead on September 13, 2010, 10:33:00 PM
Post by: Steelhead on January 31, 2012, 02:27:00 AM
Maybe get some new input as well from other Buff hunters and thier arrow of choice.
Cheers
Post by: tawmio on February 02, 2012, 10:24:00 AM
17.2 grains @ 29 + 100 + 315 = 913.8
Post by: pdk25 on February 09, 2012, 11:39:00 PM
Post by: pdk25 on May 12, 2012, 05:43:00 PM
Post by: WESTBROOK on May 18, 2012, 10:03:00 PM
Eric
Post by: SERGIO VENNERI on July 18, 2012, 10:44:00 AM
Post by: JamesKerr on August 10, 2012, 09:08:00 PM
Post by: Fishburglar on December 11, 2012, 07:57:00 AM
Post by: Fanto on December 11, 2012, 07:15:00 PM
I have a question for you Rick (and others)
What insert or adapter did you use? I can only find aluminium inserts to suit 2219, so I am considering glueing the 3555 in with epoxy all the way to the front of the 2219, then putting a brass insert into it. I think getting both shafts around the insert should make it pretty bomb-proof?
thanks
Post by: Fanto on December 11, 2012, 07:17:00 PM
I have a question for you Rick (and others)
What insert or adapter did you use? I can only find aluminium inserts to suit 2219, so I am considering glueing the 3555 in with epoxy all the way to the front of the 2219, then putting a brass insert into it. I think getting both shafts around the insert should make it pretty bomb-proof?
thanks
Post by: Fanto on December 11, 2012, 07:18:00 PM
I have a question for you Rick (and others)
What insert or adapter did you use? I can only find aluminium inserts to suit 2219, so I am considering glueing the 3555 in with epoxy all the way to the front of the 2219, then putting a brass insert into it. I think getting both shafts around the insert should make it pretty bomb-proof?
thanks
Post by: Blaino on December 28, 2012, 08:36:00 PM
Quote
Originally posted by Fanto:
Im building arrows at the moment based on Rick McGowan's formula - GT3555 inside a 2219.
I have a question for you Rick (and others)
What insert or adapter did you use? I can only find aluminium inserts to suit 2219, so I am considering glueing the 3555 in with epoxy all the way to the front of the 2219, then putting a brass insert into it. I think getting both shafts around the insert should make it pretty
thanks [/QUOTE
:campfire:
Post by: tradtusker on December 31, 2012, 11:12:00 AM
(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h101/tradtusker/305239_10150374197094389_642889388_8429639_1696978763_n_zps9fb00d8c.jpg)
Post by: robtattoo on December 31, 2012, 05:00:00 PM
Post by: Michael Baker on December 31, 2012, 06:14:00 PM
I the years I have been hunting & Guiding Buff 80# is more than ample to dispatch these criters. The only broadheads to date that havn't failed are VPA's, Widowmaker & Tuffheads. All the rest that have been used (there are many) at some stage have failed (Mainly Breaking off tips as per Andy's Photo's).
If I do add a purpose built Dangerous Game shaft to the mix I will let you guys know. I expect the first prototypes to be in my hands in the next 3 weeks. Then some very rigorous testing, which usully means it's destroying time. If they come through should be on the market by end of Feb.
Cheers
Mick
Post by: ozzyshane on January 15, 2013, 09:39:00 PM
Post by: bluemelonchitlin on April 27, 2015, 02:42:00 PM
Post by: beendare on February 08, 2016, 08:54:00 PM
With the collars, the axis is a heck of a shaft. Plus it would be easy to tune for perfect arrow flight a tad on the weak side...then add the tubes as they only make the arrow a little stiffer.