Hey guys,
picked up a doz goldtips 5570s and want to use them for stumping, whats the best system for footing with alum? and does it work? thanks.
Sheesh...why not just get some footed wooden shafts and quit screwing around with all this high tech stuff?
Too Short
:bigsmyl: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
tapered ash shafts for me Paul.
For a buck each, i can't burn um, so I'll stump um. I have quivers full of wood arrows "love um"
I just though I would try to foot these carbons so they hold up better when they thump the stump.
I'll also use them with flu-flu fletching. I just need a little help on the, how to part. thanks.
If you have good carbons you should not need to do this. It will work but I question the safety end of it. If the carbon cracks/frays under the aluminum something is going to let go at some point. I have used GT and Beeman MFX for all my stump shooting for years and need to replace very few per year. A direct hit on a solid rock equals a dead arra no matter what you do. Cut carbons a couple inches longer than norm and if you fray and end once in awhile just cut back and keep shooting. I find the MFX's tougher than the GT.
Thanks David,the safety part is a good point, and I do smack them rocks from time to time. I guess I'll just shoot um as they are. I'm new at this high tech stuff, as some of you can tell.
Flinging arrows--- it's all good. Enjoy!
I foot all my carbons, it really increase's there life. Matter of a fact I have yet to have one shatter. The worst that has happened is the shafts are blowen back off the inserts by the inertia of the hit. The alum footings are two part epoxyed on up tight to the inserts. Least thats the way I do it :D
(http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l101/GUNSMITHAMMO/P1010004-11.jpg)
Its important to bevel the inside of the footings so they have no sharp edges. From being cut off, and also the outsides tapered. So they pull from targets easier. Good luck.
Brent
iv footed a few carbons to see what they are like and now use them for stump shooting, realy work great!
i glue the insert in as normal then cut the alluminum into 2" sections, i take the bur off where i have cut them then on the sander i taper one end so that it goes to a sharp edge ( this is so it can slide over the shelf of the bow without getting snaged or catching when you draw back. then i slide the section down the shaft and stop 2"inches from the end i then put super glue on the shaft and turn the alluminum section while pushing it up against the insert so that the glue speads out nice and evenly under it. and finish by putting a bit at the end where the tapper is. makes shafts very strong, iv shot strait into rocks with no damage to the shaft ( dont get me wronge it can get damaged but i check the shaft well before i shoot it again)
(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h101/tradtusker/footingcarbon002.jpg)
:bigsmyl:
I use epoxy, and glue a 2" section of 2117 to the shaft right behind the point. I think 1 1/2" would work as well. Really toughens 'em up.
Luck!
Well worth the little effort it takes to do this. I was always mushrooming the ends of my Goldtips in practice rounds, but haven't had a single shaft failure since I footed them with 1-1/2" of 2219 shaft. I've hit rocks and completly destroyed my judo tip, but the shaft is always perfect. I use Gorilla glue and turn the aluminum as I push it over the GT tip for maximum glue coverage.
How much weight does it add to the arrow? If it is 50gr. I won't have to use the 50gr. inserts. Those that us GT 5575s what size shaft do you use? Precurve what GTs do you shoot?
Snag
When I cut them I use my lathe, usually cut them around 1.25-1.5 long. I find they are only around 12-14 grs in weight. I'm not real scentific when I chose them. As I have 3-5gal buckets of cut offs. Always of unknown wall thinkness. Unless I get my dial calipers out. I chose them only for a close tolerance to the shafts they are going on. Way I shoot 2 to 3 grs don't matter to me :bigsmyl:
If you go down to your local archery pro shop they usually have a gob of cutoffs. And if your nice will usually give some cutoffs. Just take the shafts your trying to match up to.
Paul
Is it really worth footing wood arrows only 20" long? :D Are you really shooting a arrow or just a footing?
Has anyone found what size aluminum to use on a Gold tip 600. 2117 seem a little big
Been shooting Carbon Express Heritage for 2 years now, have never damaged a shaft. Much tougher than Gold Tips.
I foot all my axis 340's, wouldn't shoot them any other way now, makes them darn near indestructable, been shooting them 2 years, and the only ones destroyed were hit by other arrows.
I agree it adds alot of strength to the arrows I footed my 400s and they held up great .
anyone foot the arrow dynamics arrows?
I've footed the AD's a few years ago. Seemed that I needed a 2312 or some odd sized alluminum to do it...but it works very well.
I use a 2216 to foot my Heritage 150s. I use 1.5"s of the shaft and use a long set two part epoxy. I have tried the 5 minute and the 15 minute 2 ton epoxy and it is too brittle. I like the overnight stuff. I shot the Muzzy this year with them and it is a brutal shoot on arrows, guys go thru 2 dozen alum. and some that many woodies, I shot two days and did not break an arrow, although I lost a few! :bigsmyl: Shawn
Hey Shawn now all you need is some kinda tracking devise to go on them and you will be able to make a dozen arrows last for no telling how long :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
I want to thank all you guys who helped me out.
The gold tips are wood finish so I used a beat up 2117 legacy alum for the footing. I had to take a rat tail file to the I D, but all is well that ends well. Thanks again.