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Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: Stringslap16 on January 04, 2009, 12:06:00 PM
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Guys I want to fine tune my setup a little more, and buys some nice carbon arrows. I have some cheap easton aluminum ones now. I am confused about what length to have them cut too, if I need weights, etc...
When I measure my draw length and hold an arrow straight out from my chest and measure where my fingers are, it says I am almost a 26" draw. My bow is 40# at 28 so I shoot 35-36#'s.
My current arrow length is 28.5 from the groove in the nock to the tamper. When I draw about 1.5 inches is sticking out past the riser. Should it be shorter, longer?
I want to buy some Benman MFX Classics at 500 spine (9.7 gpi) So with a 125 grain field point it would put my arrow weight a little over 400 grains. Is this to much, to little? need weights?
Wow after that rant I just confused myself. Any help?
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Do you mean your current arrow length is 28.5 from the groove to the insert? Do you mean that 1.5 inches is sticking out past the riser, not counting the point? If that is true, then it looks like your draw length is about 27".
If your new arrow will be 400 grains, that would be 10 gpp if you're pulling 40#, which is ideal. Since you're pulling less than 40#, your gpp will be even higher, so I don't think you need any additional weights.
What you need to do is to get the correct spine, so you will have good arrow flight. I don't know anything about Beeman MFX Classics, so maybe somebody else can tell you if you're starting in the ballpark.
If that's the right arrow for your setup, I would start with one that is cut a little long, maybe 30" and get yourself some 100 grain points and some 145 grain points, as well as the 125 grain ones. Leaving the shaft long and using heavier points reduces the effective spine, while using lighter points and shortening the shaft increases the effective spine. If you start with long arrows and the 145 grain points, and arrow flight improves when you switch to the 125 grain or the 100 grain points, then you can cut an inch off the end of the arrow and try it again, until you're happy with the arrow flight.
At some point, if you take this seriously, you should read a whole lot more than I'm saying above about arrow tuning, but this will hopefully get you started.
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When dialing in your tuning, you can change point weights, change arrow length, or adjust your center shot, or a combination of all three. By cutting the arrows to length from the start, you are giving up that option. Not a big deal if they are close to start with....O.L.
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I dought you can shoot a .500 spine.It would be too stiff at 26-27 inches draw and 38 lbs.You might could shoot a .600 with a lot of point weight.
If you want to use 125 tips you can get brass inserts to get the point weight you need.
Do not cut your carbons to a certin length and then try to tune them. You will most likely need the full length or most of it.
You need to do a search on bareshaft tuning.
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Thanks, I didn't know if anybody made a 600, I will look for it. Probably go with that and uncut, and tune it at the local archery shop.
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500's will be way too stiff. Gold tip makes a 600 spine arrow and maybe others do too. You will have to use heavy tips even with a 600. Your best bet is probably Easton redline/beman energy at about a 700 spine. Leave them long and cut just a little at a time.
Mark
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Gold tip ultralites have a .600 spine.
I have the same delemma that you do, light bow, 44#@28 with a short, 26.5" draw. The .600 spine flies very well for me.