Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: Stringslap16 on December 29, 2008, 06:35:00 PM
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Hi guys,
I am new to archery. I was introduced to traditional archery through a friend, and love it. Nothing against the compound guys, but the attitudes expressed by traditional shooters far impressed me more then the compounders (on average, from what I read in the forums). It is almost like trad archery is an art, while the wheelers is a science. Anyway this is my first post and I need some help. I hope mult-questioned topics are ok on here. I bought a entry level bow to learn on, but plan to buy a nicer bow next year when work the kinks out.
I shoot a Samick Spirit II 40# and 28" My draw is 26-27 I think.
My first question is in regards to anchor point. I shoot three fingers under and anchor my index finger to the corner of my mouth. While I shoot pretty good from this in my backyard, it seems like I could lengthen my draw length if I anchor somewhere else, but I can seem to find a nice consistent point like the corner of my mouth. Are there major drawbacks to using the corner of my mouth? I want to change now before I get to use to it if there is a better spot.
Also coming from the world of firearms I like sights I am not going to lie. I am very intrigued by the SRF sight 3rivers sells.
http://www.3riversarchery.com/SRF+Hunting+Sight++OFB+Apertures+By+DAS+Kinetic_i8175X_baseitem.html
It seems to be a hybrid of a sight picture and instinctive shooting. I am planning to go with this to increase my accuracy as I really want to make my bowhunting debut in 09. Is this a bad idea? Will it be a crutch that I can't escape later? I want to still-hunt from the ground, and I feel that the sight/anchor point combow will help use the more fluid bowhunter or "oblique" stance where your feet are more squared away to the target. Advice?
Last question I swear. I can shoot my 40# with ease, and want to buy some 60# at 28 limbs for my Samick for hunting season. Approx. what arrow weight would be good for hunting at approx 55# at 26.5?
Longest post ever? Sorry fellas...Thanks for the help.
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corner of the mouth is great, just while the index finger is in the corner of the mouth, put another finger on a certain tooth, or feel a place on your cheek bone, while the finger is at the corner of the mouth. it gives a solid non moving bone anchor.
imo, stay away from the screwed up feet toward the target stance. do a search for terrys form clock, and learn the stand the "right" way. the feet toward the target stance does nothing to help alignment and if you hunch over to use this stance, you will loose draw lenght.
arrow weight for the 55 lbs can go any where from 450 gr or so on up to 700 gr or so, an keep a good balence between flat shooting and good pentatration. if it were me, id go about 500 gr.
ask away, everyone here loves to help!
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Don't worry about lengthening your draw. Everyone posses an ideal draw length that is achieved from proper alignment. Achieve proper alignment and your draw length will be whatever it is. Alignment is everything.
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There is a simple way to determine your 'natural' anchor point. Stand comfortably with both arms out stretched to the side. Close your eyes and try not to think about anything. Bend the draw arm elbow towards your face. Where it touches the face is the natural 'touch point' . I say 'touch point' because, as previously mentioned, the anchor must be a bone on bone contact for consistency. If you can, wrap the web of the hand around jawline or find the jaw/thumb bone contact and remember it. Use an UPPER tooth as a secondary confirmation point.
As for draw length...IMHO, quit worrying about it. Too much has been made about how far they draw...it has NOTHING to do with accuracy and that's what archery is all about. Watch how short the Olympic archers draw when the string touches the tip of their nose.
What you are aiming for is the 3Cs of archery...Consistency, Control and Confidence.
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I'm pretty new here but you're not getting too many responses. Maybe another viewpoint can help.
First, in defense of our wheeled brothers...there's still an art in *GOOD* compound shooting. You've just got a lot more fluff to dig through before you find it. In trad, it's right there...shining in all it's glory!
As to drawlength, I agree with everything said here. (It's really about alignment.) However, I think it would be okay to play around a little know will things are still flexible to see what you can come up with. If it feels better and you're shooting is better....that means you've probably found some better alignment.
As to the sight thingy. I won't say to not buy one....but practice without it. Get form down...then get it MORE down. Within a couple weeks of the season then put it on...it won't fix or compensate for the bad form you/we need to work on now...and you're brain will make the "aiming" associations very quickly if you feel you still need it come next September.
As to the new limbs, I think it is generally regarded rule that you don't want to jump more than 10# at a time. Certainly not twenty!!! (Even if you can handle 20 extra you need to get there in increments small enough for you brain and muscles to take the form you've developed at X weight and apply it to the new Y weight.) Besides, I have a 50# that I probably draw about 53# and assure it that's PLENTY for deer if you setup is right and you use sharp broadheads.
As for arrows, that's something you need experience with in order to just name out what "should" work. What I did is called Sipsey River (a sponsor here, just use the search feature) told him what I had and what I wanted. Got some factory seconds and he (John I believe) was right on the money...factory seconds saved me a good chunk of money as well!
And no, that's not the longest post on here.....you need a 3 course meal and a pot of coffee to get through some of them!! lol
Good luck! Have Fun!
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Thanks fellas,
Bradd that alingment test worked good. My natural touch point is pretty close to the corner of my mouth. I think I am still going to use the tooth behind the corner of my mouth. Very easy and fast to find.
Soilarch, I hear what your saying about the poundage. That is why I went with a 40# (probaly 35-37#'s for me) even though I am a decently strong guy. Stuff sometimes come down to money though. I really wanted to get the 60# limbs (probably around 55# for me) so I could start getting my hunting setup tuned up. 55# would be good enough for all north american game (I think), so I wouldn't have to upgrade again when I go elk hunting with my friend in a season or two. I really don't want to buy new limbs and arrows more then once, barring replacements or for finer tuning.
You make perfect sense though...
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Stringslap: Lighter weights FORCE you to shoot better, since everything HAS to be good. Once you have mastered a set of light weight limbs, THEN you should move on the heavier weights because you can't go the other way around. Move up in 10lb increments so that you don't ingrain poor shooting habits. Strength has nothing to do with anything because you are using muscles that are unique to archery and they need to be built up and trained properly.
Above all...have fuuuunnnnnn!!!!!
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Yeah I am having tons of fun with this. The fact that the hobbie racks your brain, and takes time is the reason I like it. Much more fun earning a successful hunt instead of buy guy, point gun, kill animal. Not that it is THAT simplistic, but with some of these baits, game feeders, and electronic calls it is a little out of control.
I think I am going to buy some better tuned arrows and sling some more arrows from my current poundage to nail down the good technique. Might have to make that 20# jump in late summer though. I really want to end up with a bow around 55#'s but really don't have the funds to go up twice. I'll have to think about that one. What you guys are saying makes sense though. You don't go up big increments in weight lifting without form problems, I am sure archery is the same way.