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Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: highpoint forge on January 02, 2008, 01:08:00 PM
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I'm new to bowhunting and saw that a clicker helps with you learn proper draw and release. Are they useful? Who here uses them?
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Yes, they are very helpful, especially for dealing with target panic.
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I use one on my hunting bow, and my target bow.
It is a way for me to complete my shot. Set my hand, draw, aim, expand, click its gone..
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They are an excellent learning tool and some like Cnyn use them while hunting. Very good for preventing creep or letting you know that you are over-bowed.
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Anchor point is a good start but I do sometimes feel I should keep pulling or I'll draw and then draw again until anchored, rather than one fluid pull and release.
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A clicker used right will help with a ton of problems and will help build perfect form.
i used one for a long time.I used the clickety click model. I made it quiet,so it doesn't click,but you can feel it in the handle when it clicks.
it was the best thing I ever did for my shooting. :campfire:
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A couple years ago I became really frustrated :knothead: with target panic and all those "guarantees" to cure it were worthless for me. The clicker has made archery fun once again and I use them on all my bows for both hunting and target use. :thumbsup:
By the way, I have experimented drawing on close range deer and have found that the audible "click" (even without silencing) does not alert the animals.
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Originally posted by Blackhawk:
A couple years ago I became really frustrated with target panic and those "guarantees" to cure were worthless for me. The clicker has made archery fun once again and use them on all my bows for both hunting and target use.
#1.. :campfire:
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I used one to fix a roving draw lenght. It worked fine, when i solved the peoblem i stopped using it.
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It worked great to make me use proper form (get to my full draw) after having a bow blow up on me. Don't use it now, but the mount is still on the bow in case I fall again.
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I used to use them on all my bows, but after a while I found that I had established a consistent draw length and could hold at full draw without target panic, so I removed them from all but one bow. I still keep one on my 65# bow, which is a bit overbowed for me, but I like to shoot it from time to time to build up my strength, and the clicker keeps me honest.
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How do these things work guys? are they easy to set up and remove from a bow? I'm thinking that might be a great tool for changing your anchor point.....or teaching someone to estabish a good anchor point....how bout it guys? Kirk
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They just stick on your limb and are adjustable to your string. They are cheap and (I believe) the best thing I have found to solve what ails you in your shooting. Easy to get on and off. I don't use them during hunting season but based on what Blackhawk said -I may start. Three Rivers has a few but I like the Crick-It...about 14 bucks and worth it!
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I have a built in clicker, in my right shoulder. Way too many hours of shooting way too many arrows out of way too heavy bows.
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I think "clickers" are one of the most over looked tool there is when it comes to correcting form. They really help you replace a very bad habit with a good one. After using it for a while you really won't even notice the click because you have retrained your brain.
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I use one on all my bows. And as stated above they help me a lot. They made shooting fun again and cured my target panic. They are a great tool. Also they can be quieted for hunting.
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Originally posted by laddy:
I have a built in clicker, in my right shoulder. Way too many hours of shooting way too many arrows out of way too heavy bows.
I like it bro! LOL :clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
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Here's a Klickety Klicker on a recurve. It sticks on the limb without causing damage, and is easily removed.
I took off the piece of chain and use only the cord which is placed between the strings and can be adjusted.
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d108/lwscott/clicker.jpg)
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Ron Pittsley from Predator bows developed and sells the "Crick-it" draw check. Although I've never used one, I have dealt with Ron on a couple of bow purchases and you won't find a nicer guy to work with. Not only is Ron an knowledgeable, outstanding archer/bowhunter, he's a superb bowyer. The last Predator I bought from him has all but cured me of my Widow addiction!
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Kirk
A clicker is used to establish a consistent draw length, so is probably a good way to establish an anchor point. Another benefit is that it will warn you if you're not pushing with your bow arm or if your bow shoulder collapses, since you will find yourself drawing past your anchor point with no click.
They are easy to set up and remove from the bow. You should set brace height before fastening on the clicker string, as twisting the bowstring would mess that up. Pay attention to the knot recommended in the clicker instructions, as the clicker string can get fouled around the bowstring and using their knot helps prevent that.
If you want controversy, just ask people whether to put the clicker closer to the top or the bottom of the limbs. Everyone has their own opinion on that.
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I've been shooting the Clickety-Click model for about 15 years now. I use them on all my bows, hunting and 3-d. You will quickly learn if you are overbowed!
I first put one on to cure the short drawing syndrome (I was overbowed). Now I find that the main thing it does for me is MAKES me concentrate on each shot all the way through. It also keeps you from "collapsing" at release, which I see a lot of shooters do.
Give one a try, it may be the best $15 bucks you spend this year!
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As an option to McDave and the suggesteed knot to tie, I just pull the string straight through the bowstring-then tie an overhand knot in the end. You can adjust the knot placement until you get the draw length correct, then burn the end. Small changes in DL can then be made by sliding the knot up or down the string. I finish by serving above and below the knot with dental floss.
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I been told that I shoot it incorect, but. I have mine set up to click at 29". I set my hand, Draw,set my "gap" or my "feel", begin to draw again, when the thing clicks, I release, dont think about release, its just gone. I dont have Panic, I am learning to get to an anchor, then expand. My shooting has dramatically improved this way. Mine is set up with velcro, one piece on the bow, one on the "crick-it". I can untie the knot from the crickit, and leave the string in the bowstring. Taking the crickit off, and put it on another bow. the set up stays the same and it is mobile.
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Virtually all world class and Olympic shooters use clickers. That should tell you something.
Brett
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Ol' Alan (A.S.) is one of the best shooters I've had the pleasure to shoot with. The clicker works great for him. He even gave one to me to play with. I think I might play with it again this year. Another fun thing about the clicker is the cool Springs Gang here in Va loves to make click noises when Alan approches full draw. :biglaugh:
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I think you can see it in this photo. I use flemish twist strings and I just run the line thru the bundles of the string. I get it close to my draw length and then cut off all but about 1/2", then burn the end and fine tune by pulling it one way or the other, just afraction at a time. I dont tie a knot or serve over or under and its never moved. If you use endless strings it may be something else but with the flemish twist its solid.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v239/yohon/IM000353.jpg)
BigCyn....sound to me like your shooting it the way it supposed to work :thumbsup: Great idea on the velcro too.
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NOOK....thats just plain mean!!!
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Feel the love Yohon!!! I get no respect on the 3D range with those guys!!! LOL
Lets go get some bunnies soon, Nook.
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You actually can't hear mine.It's the same clicker but I made it quiet.When it does click,you can feel it in the handle of the bow,it's like a little "thump" and the arrow is loosed. :campfire:
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Hey Dirty Bill, can you give any tips on silencing your clicker? I put stick on moleskin on all parts, and seems to do pretty well. I've had a couple that were just naturally quieter than others.
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I don't even know what a clicker is.
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I think I will have to try one. I am needing to establish a consoistent draw and anchor.
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Originally posted by A.S.:
Hey Dirty Bill, can you give any tips on silencing your clicker? I put stick on moleskin on all parts, and seems to do pretty well. I've had a couple that were just naturally quieter than others.
I tried moleskin,but I had better luck with rubber dip. I sent you an e mail. :campfire:
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Originally posted by Greg Owen:
I think I will have to try one. I am needing to establish a consoistent draw and anchor.
Your shooting will improve tremendously. :campfire:
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DB, that would be awesome if you can do a post and explain it to everyone!
Thanks again,
Allen
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I made a traditional clicker out of sinew and beaver teeth that fits in my pocket...can't wait to try it out on Allen...might be shootin' against him in the recurve class this year, and will need a tactical advantage :saywhat:
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Darryl, don't think you have anything to worry about. Can't wait to get to Dixie to start shooting. Looks like we are going to miss the first shoot as it's the same day as our rabit hunt. I'll be there in Feb, hopefully with a new bow.
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I'll do one up tomorrow.I didn't get a chance to get the stuff today. :campfire:
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I picked up some spray rubber coat at Lowe's (that's all they had). I'm in the process of coating mine now. Can't wait to see how it turns out!
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ttt
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Yohon,
Is that moleskin on your clicker? Do you shoot it that way all the time or just when hunting?
Ordered two from Hunter's Niche and can't wait to put them on my recurve and flatbow.
If this works as well as many of you say, this will be the best $28 I've spent on archery.
John
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I shoot it that way all the time, I try to quiet it down to where I feel it click thru the handle as well as hear it and the moleskin helps, electricians tape also works well.
Just remember though to keep pulling THRU the clicker till you see the arrow in the target. Just pulling the bow TO the click wont do you much good make your goal to pull well beyond a point of let go. Good luck, I can think of alot worse things to spend your $$ on ;)
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Originally posted by Yohon:
Just remember though to keep pulling THRU the clicker till you see the arrow in the target.
Spot on advice, John! What causes some folks to not see the value of a clicker is.....they pull to the click, and quit...it takes only another milisecond to pull to conclusion.
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Originally posted by SHOOTO8S:
Originally posted by Yohon:
Just remember though to keep pulling THRU the clicker till you see the arrow in the target.
Spot on advice, John! What causes some folks to not see the value of a clicker is.....they pull to the click, and quit...it takes only another milisecond to pull to conclusion. [/b]
I'll concur with that from personal experience. Exellent, excellent advice!
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recently put a clicker on my bow to help me stop short drawing, its great i feel that i have something very constant in my shooting now and accuracy and consistency has improved, i can't see it coming off. :D
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i use one the same way bigcyn uses his.
can't shoot without it!
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Has helped me tremendously--in many ways--I always end up putting it back on my bow---I use electrical tape--just have to change it every now and then--- I use a nockset on the string--
It will keep you True........Mark
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I got a Criket for my son and it saved his archery future- he had just about given up when we tried this. We should have done it much sooner. Grant
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Guys, how do you attach the cord to the clicker and remove the chain?
Do you drill off the chain?
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Bob, if you have the Clickety Click model there should be a small cone shaped thingy that the chain is attatched to on the spring steel. Just push it out, insert your string, burn the end and have at it.
Allen
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What kind of cord do you all use... or did I miss that in a former post...
Is it release rope or something else?
I've been putting trying one off for over a year and finally put it on the Christmas list... so hopefully Santa will come through...
Jonathan
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I have a disconnected one on my 51# PSAX and another in the plastic still for one of my two 57# PSAX. I guess I shoot well enough without it? Might install it over Xmas and try er out.....
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Jonathan, I am using release rope. It fits well by just burning the end that goes through the spring steel. In the past I have used heavy braided fishing long (saltwater sturr). It worked ok but tends to knot up some and will wear out after a few months of shooting.
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Thanks Allen! I have access to some of that...
Jonathan
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I've seen a pic or 2 of them on the riser instead of the limbs. Any advantage or disadvantage to that?
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Roknjs, I've used them on both the riser and limb. Can't really tell a difference other than the attatchment cord ends up being much shorter when you attatch it to the limb.
Jonathan, also forgot to mention that I put a dab of glue where the string goes through the clicker-just to hold it in place good.
Allen
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Where can you get these at? Maybe a web page post? Sounds like it would help to stay constant.
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Three Rivers carrys them. Here is the link
http://www.3riversarchery.com/Bow+Accessories+Miscellaneous_c46_s55_p0_thumb.html
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How long till you saw emprovement when you guys put them on?
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Cecil, I think you should see a big improvement from the first arrow you shoot. You will immediately realize if you were creaping at full draw or not coming to full draw before the release.
I've been shooting one for over 16 years, and love them!
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Things are getting better. do you shoot when it clicks or pause before you shoot. when I put mine on I wonted to flench when it went off. so I got right at the target shot some. just pull it back and click it sometimes then let down. it is coming along tho.
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Anybody have a spare they do not want anymore?
I would like to try one out.
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Are they difficult to adjust? Way up there on the limb it seems like a tiny cord adjustment makes a big draw length difference.
I want to try one - any comments on my question?
Thanks for the thread!!!
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They are not hard to adjust at all. it has a little chain on it you can move it one notch at a time. put them down on the limb at the wedge not on the working part of the limb.
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I've trained with a clicker for a lot of years. A clicker was first designed as a draw check, but soon developed into much more. Most use the clicker as a tool to force himself to pull through the shot to conclusion and as a trigger to relax the fingers to effect let go.
One hint in setting up a clicker for optimum use is to get someone to help! Have them watch for the click and perfect alignment to occur at the same time...once you have the clicker set, don't adjust it the first time(and it will) the clicker won't go off...instead look for what have changed in your form or shot sequence.
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I have used a clicker for a couple years now and have found that it has greatly improved my shot. It alows you to concentrate on the spot where you are aiming without having to worry about getting to full draw.
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Do you guys have these set so you barely move off your anchor when it clicks? Im trying to understand how it helps accuracy when you get to anchor and then you continue to draw, effectively loosing your anchor. I must be missing something, although I want to try one real bad. If you short draw, you really dont know it till you pull thru and it doesnt click right? I recently watched a video where the guy had one and in the excitement of the hunt, he drew past anchor, dam thing clicked and he loosed the arrow and missed totally. Guess thats the only negative I see to training yourself to release at the click, as opposed to making it click at anchor, then concentrating and loosing subcontiously.
Ken
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I was shooting terrible when I first started. Most of the time I was very inconsistant, and had no confidence in my ability to kill an animal. It was very hard if not impossible to put down my compound which I was very proficient with. I shoot Hummingbird bows and am friends with Ben Graham. I called him and we ended up shooting together at his house one Sat. Ben installed a clicker on my bow and I shot it for several months, it helped me develope a consistant anchor point. My shooting improved dramatically and stayed there after I took it off. If you use one I think it will help. Good luck. LCH
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I shoot a bow well.......but only with a clicker!!!!!! I suffer from target panic and cannot shoot without one.
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I ordered a clickety click model and have been shooting it for a week and a half or so every day. I use it as a draw check, meaning I draw till it clicks, then anchor, then aim and release. I dont know if it was from reading how people use them or what, but I started to develope a problem where I was letting go when I heard the click. I can say it has helped my shooting considerably, cause if your not drawing to the same length EVERY time, your not going to shoot consistently. Im also experienced the flinch when it would click, but am past that now. I have mine on the upper portion of the limb(working area for sure). It keeps my string short, about 11" or so. I also cut all but 4 of the steel balls off the thing. Even with those balls, its a bit noisy upon release. Until I have a lot of time with it, Im not going to give up that little bit of adjustment just yet. I also used .021 serving string to connect the chain to my string. This was due to cutting the original one too short the first time. 8^) What I noticed is if you tie on even with it, the swivel can actually hang up on the clicker. So far the small serving string is performing flawlesly. I cannot use it as mentioned by some. I find if I stop my draw cycle even 1/2" short and then focus on the target and try to draw till I hear the click, its like Im pulling against a wall. My bow arm starts to shake real bad and I end up loosing the string. Could be over bowed, or could be the result of the bow stacking.
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Kenn1320, try taking a breath and holding it as you draw. This should help you pull through the clicker, and use it as it was designed.
However, if what you are doing is working for you...by all means keep it up!
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Unlike most who use the clicker, I use one to keep from drawing too far. I had the problem of drawing/expanding past good alignment before releasing, causing the string to slap my cheek/lip. Rather then using a friend as Rod suggested, I used a camera to determine where my best alignment was: the camera doesn't lie. :p My draw length shortened from 29 ½” to 28 7/8”.
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Walt, that is another benefit that I see from the clicker. If I take mine off, I can easily draw another 1/2".....but that gets my alignment off and I start whacking the end of my nose with the bowstring.
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I've used one for about a year now and I'm very pleased with how it's helped me with target panic. It also has shown me how inconsistent my draw length can be at times.
I tossed the bead chain and use about an inch wrapping of centre-serving on the bowstring to lock down the little pull cord. I left a short tag end on the cord to help in adjusting the "click-point".
I aim while drawing and loose when I hear the click, no more TP for me! It's been a godsend and I highly recommend a clicker.
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Very intersting subject !!
There is two differents models on 3Rivers
any difference between them ???
Thank you
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Intersting thread folks, knew nothing about a clicker until reading this. One question i have that Ive not seen addressed : After using a clicker for a while, and learning to shoot with one, is it difficult to transition to shooting without one ? Or do most folks continue to use one after learning to shoot with one ? Hope that makes a little since. Thanks
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I shoot without a clicker while hunting animals from the ground; the clicker string tangles in brush/grass, bends, and then breaks the clicker steel (Does anybody know where to get just the spring steel that creates the click?). I found that If you use the click as your release signal it can be difficult to readjust to shooting without one. For me, I use it as a draw check, to prevent me from overdrawing the arrow. When the click happens it initiates my commitment to the shot and begins the expansion phase of the shot sequence not as a signal to release the arrow.
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Walt, do you have the Clickety Klick or the Crick-it? I have the phone # for the guy who makes the Clickety Klick. I just bought several of the spring steel parts from him a couple months ago.
I'm really interested in how you use your's. I may give it a try....after hunting season
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Allen, I use the Crick-it but the spring steel pieces might be interchangeable.
The shooting method I am using is a combination of what I learned from Rod Jenkins at his clinic, Larry Yien in the Masters of the Barebow III CD, and Rick Welch’s second CD, coupled with a clicker. However, I haven't put a clicker back on my hunting bow since shifting my hunting from elk to whitetails last week. I just make sure to work on my form at for 5-20 arrows every day.
Send me a PM if and when you want to discuss how I use the clicker.
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Walt here is the phone # for the Clickety Klick guy. You will probably get an answering machine, just leave a message, and he will call you back. Sounds like one older man that just builds them in his basement. 717-664-2327
The Crick-it is made by the guy who makes Predator bows, you should be able to get parts through him.
I am definately going to try your method of shooting the clicker. I have been shooting one for 17 years, and shoot really well. My main struggle is getting the draw length JUST right, so everything feels right during the shot. When I have it right, I feel like I can't miss.
I'm always open to trying new things though!
Oh yeah, the LW climbing sticks are great!
Allen
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Walt, if you have a broken or cheap (one that you dont mind tearing apart) retractable metal tape measure you can get a pair of metal snips and cut your own. You'll have enough there for a lifetime of replacement parts :biglaugh:
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Not sure if someone posted this before, Read some posts but not all. Take the chain off the clicker, And go with string all the way from the clicker to the string, Way better and less noise. The string I have is a little smaller than the loop material compound shooters use on the string.