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Main Boards => The Shooters FORM Board => Topic started by: Bear Heart on March 05, 2008, 09:46:00 PM
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What do you gap shooters do in low light situations? Don't see how you can tell where the tip of your arrow is on the target. I've been playing around with some gap shooting today just to help reprogram.
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All you need to do is cut a 1-2" piece of a chartreuse arrow wrap and wrap it at the base of the insert/ point. It is very bright and really helps a lot.
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I paint the end two inches of my arrow light blue or chartreuse. i tried tape first, but I didn't like the bump from the edge of the tape hitting my finger. I feather out the edge of the paint.
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I've been wondering about this too. Seems to be the big flaw in any gap system...
I'll be trying the arrow wrap bit this evening. Thanks!...
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I thin wrap of white, fuzzy Velcro does wonders.
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y138/wesbrock/Tour/IMG_3699.jpg)
(http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y138/wesbrock/Tour/IMG_3712.jpg)
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Painting the back of the broadhead blade with correction fluid (white out) works great!
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when i shoot in the night 3d shoots i use an all white arrow, i don't gap but i do see the arrow and use it to make sure i am lined up.
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What seems to be the best solution when using field points on aluminum arrows while shooting 3D targets?
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Jason, how well does that work for target shooting? seems like it would come off real easy.
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Originally posted by atlatlzoom:
Jason, how well does that work for target shooting? seems like it would come off real easy.
I've never had the need to use it for target shooting. I can see the tip of my arrow just fine in those situations. Where this comes in handy is those early/late hours shots at game where daylight is minimal.
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I tried a 1" wide piece of flo yellow wrap behind the point. Worked very well and held up to several days of shooting so far.
For target or 3D I would be inclined to try Onstringer's Double Dogg Wrap. It's a two ply setup, first the colored wrap than a tough clear lnainate over it. Not supposed to ever peel off or fade...
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I don't worry about it for 3D. Can't say I've ever shot that late in the day at a shoot. As for hunting, if it's dark enough that I can't see the arrow point, it's probably too late to be shooting anything.
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I use unstained wood shafts, which can be easily seen in one's peripheral vision in low light conditions, because the shafts are light in color. They also work well at coon shoots.
In fact, I never stain wood shafts for this reason.
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As for hunting, if it's dark enough that I can't see the arrow point, it's probably too late to be shooting anything.
I had the same thought.
If you can't see the arrow, how can you see a spot to shoot at?
Steve
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I've been doing a night shoot with some friends. We use a dim light that is simular to an old street light. But there is not that much light where we are standing. Kinda hard to explain but I will explain more in a future powow entry entitled " Yankee in Red Neck Heaven"
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I've been doing a night shoot with some friends. We use a dim light that is simular to an old street light. But there is not that much light where we are standing. Kinda hard to explain but I will explain more in a future powow entry entitled " Yankee in Red Neck Heaven"
We do something similar here. We call it a "coon" shoot. We place a low light latern down by the target and shoot. Typically, where we're standing it's pretty much pitch black, unless the moon is out. I usually just take some old beater arrows and pretty much just point and shoot by feel. It's all for fun anyway. Even with a bright colored tip of some kind, it's hard to see in that kind of darkness.