Trad Gang
Topic Archives => How To - Resources => Topic started by: Mike Vines on November 13, 2013, 06:42:00 PM
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With gun season approaching, and Daylight savings time upon us I thought I would get to tinkering with some arrows. Just some basic no frills shafts, but it's still fun to make them. Haven't figured out the fletchings yet, but I'm sure it won't be anything fancy. :bigsmyl:
I am going to do a complete "How-To" on the next dozen I will be doing the crown on starting this evening, so please bear with me, like to let stuff dry between steps.
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1113131855.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1113131855.jpg.html) :bigsmyl:
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nice start Mike, I love watching you work :)
Take lots of pictures!
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Good to see you back Mike. Nice start you got going on there.
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This next set I'm going to do colors that will be easy to see in the How To. Thinking White and Red crown on an Ebony stained shaft.
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Very Nice!!!
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You got talent!
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Looking good.
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SWEET!!
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Mike says,..."I am going to do a complete "How-To"..." and I know immediately he isn't directing this at me...lol
There will be a whole bunch of folks that'll be excited to see this and they'll be helped immensely.......
but I ask myself how's this going to help me since I "HATE" building arrows....lol
Mike I can be helped but "if and only if".. you send me a dozen....lol J/K
Good job Mike!!
God bless,Mudd
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Thank you for the kind words guys.
Hey Mudd, what does the guy that says "I can" and the guy that says "I can't" have in common? They are both right.
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Time to start the crown...
I will not run thru the beginning stages of prepping tbe shaft and bore you with staining and the 1st coat of dip.
I did all that listed above and hung my shafts to dry. Everything I do has a minimum of 24 hrs dry time between steps. Why? Because the guy that taught me said so, and i don't need to try and improve the techniques on who I consider to be the best Arrow Builder known. Plus, if it works, why mess with it.
Here is a picture of the shafts hanging to dry after being prepped, stained and 1 dip of clear...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1113131949.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1113131949.jpg.html)
If you don't mind, I'm not just gonna show a bunch of pictures, I'm also going to "Talk" as I'm going along. I feel it's important to be able to carry on a conversation in life. If you don't want to read it, just look at the pictures and get half the fun.
If anyone has any questions about my set up, the shop, steps I might not have been to clear with or anything you just need an answer to, please feel free to ask. I DO NOT believe in keeping "Trade Secrets". Knowledge should be shared and passed on. (sorry guys, I still can't figure out women so your on your own there).
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Next step is to get a couple VERY eagar assistants willing to help Dad in the shop and take pictures for me.
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1113131951.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1113131951.jpg.html)
Here, I have taken all the shafts and steel wooled them toget rid of the raised grain from the previous dip and preparing to use some painter's tape to mask off where I want the spray paint to terminate.
It always help if you make yourself comfortable when working, so shorts and a shirt that means the world to me are worn when I want to relax.
You see, this shirt is just over 23 years old. I got this shirt on the 2nd of August 1990. Does anyone know what that date means in history???
2 August 1990 is a significant date to me for 2 reasons. That is the date that Sadam Hussein invaded Kuwait, and it is also the same exact date that I was issued that very shirt when I was in my very first day of Basic Training for the Army.
That shirt has been around the world when I was enlisted and has seen plenty of better days, and one of the worst that I could imagine too.
Funny how something as simple as a shirt could have such meaning and memories associated with it.
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Just another view of the taping process. You really dont need that long of a piece, as long as it goes around at least a full time, your good.
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1113131952.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1113131952.jpg.html)
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Here is the dozen all set and ready to go in the spray booth (aka the garage)
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1113132001.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1113132001.jpg.html)
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Now I take a simple piece of paper and use it to protect most of the masking tape and the part of the shaft that I do not want any oversprayed paint on.
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1113132005.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1113132005.jpg.html)
Some of the things I do may seem redundant, but they are done for a reason. Masking tape does it's job, BUT there is always that one time where you should have done something better but didn't. So now I always use masking tape AND a piece of paper to protect the area I don't want paint on.
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Here I am in my spray booth :-)
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1113132005b.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1113132005b.jpg.html)
Trust me when I say you ARE going to get overspray on anything that is IN your spray booth.
You can't tell in this picture, but i pulled my wife's van out to do this step. I didn't feel like cleaning her vehicle with Acetone AGAIN. If anything you gain from this tutorial...learn from my mistakes. Just a little forethought will prevent a LOT of unnecessasary aggrivation.
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Crown all sprayed and ready to go back to the shop...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/1113132019.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/1113132019.jpg.html)
And here they are with the tape removed and set to the side to dry.
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/1113132027.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/1113132027.jpg.html)
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That's it for tonight. Now to let everything dry. I'll try to get to these either tomorrow or Saturday.
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Looking good!! At least you're learning from your mistakes... I hope :)
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Mike, I'm not saying "I can't", what I'm saying is I am appalled at the thought of building any more arrows in this lifetime which translates to "I won't"...
I sorely wish I could convey how detestable even the thought of it is to me.
I think I'd rather go to the dentist and let him work on my teeth without the use of any painkillers.
When I 1st got into archery I got all excited and wanted to make everything myself.
I set a goal of taking a deer with a bow and string made by my hand with an arrow made using turkey feathers from a bird I killed, tipped with a point made by me.
Yes, I accomplished that goal but at a cost, I have never tried knapping again and try my best to only touch arrows for the purpose of putting them on my string.
After my smashed thumb healed from my experience of make smaller rocks out of larger ones I gave up and cut and shaped a point out of a thick section of bone from a cow's leg.
All of the Japanese arrow bamboo, Grey Dogwood, and several other kinds of arrow building plants I was growing have long since been removed or plowed under.
I gave away or traded away all of the flint and flint knapping tools I had accumulated because I over estimated my skill and desires.
God bless,Mudd
PS: I do love making stuff archery and or bowhunting related.. just not anything to do with building arrows.
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Now I get it Roy. That's the exact same way I feel about picking Strawberries. I can say I did it, but will never again in my life go thru the pain in the back of doing it again.
Well, I've got a sick kid today and my Wife already had plans for going somewhere with my Mom, SO I had to make the call to my boss that I wouldn't be in. Normally I wouldn't have a problem staying home if I'm needed to, but today just happens to be the opening day of firearms hunting in Michigan and my boss knows how everything I do revolves around hunting.
His response "When did you start gun hunting?" I can see where it might look a little fishy calling in sick on Opening Day, but everyone across work knows me and my hunting preference type. My boss understood and told me I had to work Sunday to get a few jobs finished up, so I can accept that. Pretty nice having an understanding employer.
So hopefully I can get these shafts all marble dipped for the thread. The previous pictures were done Wednesday night, so there has been plenty of time for them to dry for the next step.
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I am looking foward to the marble dip.This is a great thread. thanks. Kev
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Looking forward to the rest of your posts! I love making my arrows, and have started making my fletchings from friends turkeys. What kind of spry paint are you using? They turned out nice.
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I prefer a slow drying (2-4 hr dry time) paint. I believe it is Rustoleum gloss protective enamel. If you use the quicker drying paint, the paint will not have time to flow together and you will have less than desireable results.
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Thanks bro! I am new and as you can see that was my 1st post here. I may try that technique soon.
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Mike, you forgot your mask when spraying the paint. Please wear one, I am a Resp. Therapist. I am looking forward for the marble dipping.
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You are absolutely correct Britt. I sent my boys in after this picture because of the fumes. I should have put on a mask. I will from here on out when spray painting. Thank you for making that correction, and it should be followed by all.
Alright guys, I just finished up the dipping, but it is just about time to go to the bus stop to pick up my other son from school, so I will have the completed crown for you all here shortly. (Personally, these white and red ones are OK, but my favorites are the yellow and black ones so far, but to each their own maybe the cresting and fletchings will completely change the final look)
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Thanks for doing this Mike! Quick question, I noticed that you did not stain the area where you are applying the crown, for obvious reason. Do you apply your first coat of clear sealer over the crown area or do you spray the crown on raw wood?
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I have done both, but I prefer to dip the entire shaft first. Personal reasons I guess, but you get a much smoother finish and cannot see the wood grain under the paint if it has already been sealed as opposed to painting over raw wood. I guess you could consider the dip as a primer coat to seal the wood.
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First step after I get the crown painted and allowed to dry is to determine where you are wanting the marble to stop/start at. I chose a location based on my fletching. Here is where the public skool edukation maf skilz come in handy (That was just for you Steve O :-)
After determining the location, mark it on one shaft with a pencil line them all up (butted up to a vertical surface works great to line them up), then get a square and pencil and transfer that previous pencil mark to all the shafts so they are uniform...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1115131202.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1115131202.jpg.html)
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Now you need to have a container that is deep enough to accept the arrow shaft when it is dipped inside to at least where you plan in dipping to. Don't make the mistake some guy I know who bought a short dip container. The Next time I, I mean he, went to the Salvation Army and bought a DEEP plastic flower vase.
You will also need something to drop the paint in the water and also swirl it. I have found that a cheap basic bamboo skewer works perfect for this.
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1115131205.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1115131205.jpg.html)
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Once your vase is filled with water, get the oil based paint you are wanting to use. Yes it MUST be oil based to work. The paint needs to float on top of the water. We will get to that part shortly.
Here is what I have found works great. Testors model car paints...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1115131205a.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1115131205a.jpg.html)
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I'm enjoying this. Will have to try this winter. :campfire:
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Mike,
Thanks for sharing!
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Taking the blunt end of your bamboo skewer, dip it in the paint and mix the paint up. After mixed, remove so that there is enough paint on there that a drop will drip off of it.
Here is where you can tinker around with amounts and colors. I have found certain combinations that work well with others. I prefer to use less paint as to more, but you will find what you like. Combining colors is pretty cool, but you had better practice on something before attempting any of this.
This is 1 drop of paint floated on top of the water. Don't let it fall off the end or dunk it. When you get a drop to look like this, you have achieved success...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1115131250.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1115131250.jpg.html)
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Now take the pointed end of the skewer and using JUST THE TIP to trace and swirl the paint around not pushing down at all (it'll take a little practice, but it is really simple). Go back and read that paragraph again.
Anything that goes into the water will have paint stuck on it and ruin the look of the finished product.
When your done swirling the paint, it should look like this...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1115131251.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1115131251.jpg.html)
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Now once again, take some painter's blue masking tape and apply it at the pencil line you previously made to determin where to stop the marble swirl at. It is probably best to do all the shafts this way first, I was just wanting to get one done to show the process.
Here is that step...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1115131240.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1115131240.jpg.html)
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Now, here is the kick A$$ part. I don't have any pictures of this step (My photographer was still in bed with some chicken noodle soup).
I have absolutely no idea how this works, but it amazes me each and every time.
Holding the shaft verticle, dip in the middle of the swirled paint twisting back and forth as you are going down. Dip so some of the tape is submerged (that way you make sure you went all the way down) then pull straight up still twisting back and forth till it is clear of the water.
I HAVE NO IDEA HOW, BUT LIKE A MAGNET, THE PAINT ADHEARS TO THE SHAFT AND WILL NOT COME OFF, OR EVEN RUN.
There will be some water on the shaft, and you should remove it, but how? Simple, you simply grasp the point end and act like you are going to whip something and stop short of hitting said something. The water will magically come off and no paint will go with it. I swing it down towards the concrete floor and there is not one drop of paint on the floor. Like I said, I have no clue how it does this, it just does.
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Can't wait to see these. This sounds awesome.
Josh
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When you have completed the "Water Whip Off Maneuver" this is what your shaft will look like...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1115131245.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1115131245.jpg.html)
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Good stuff!!
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Simply remove the tape and set it off to the side to dry. Here is the completed dozen. Like I said, they look neat, but the Yellow and black ones look better at this point.
I'm thinking some blue cresting is in order for these. Something about Red, White and Blue that I just love.
It just hit me, now I know why the paint stays there...Those 3 colors DO NOT RUN.
Thanks for tagging along guys. Let me know if there is anything I missed or was not clear about. I will answer anything you might have.
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1115131319.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1115131319.jpg.html)
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Nice Mike....be careful to not get overspray on the beard!!
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Can you do this to carbon arrows?
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Here are the 3 different ones that I've put together this past week. All will be finished and a set will be donated to each of the following organizations to raise a couple dollars for them.The Michigan Longbow Association, the Professional Bowhunters Society and the Michigan Bow Hunters.
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1115131749.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1115131749.jpg.html)
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1115131750a.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1115131750a.jpg.html)
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Originally posted by moredneck:
Can you do this to carbon arrows?
Not a clue. I'm a carpenter that deals with wood.
I'm just going to postulate here and say yes. As long as the spray paint will adhear to the carbon shaft, the spray should be no problem. As for dipping, I don't know how you would do the dip without the paint also going on the inside or ruining a nock. Then you need to worry about sealing the product when finished. When I'm done (Still have to use my Spinrite Crester to lay down some beautiful lines), the shafts will be dipped in the clear 2 more times.
Once again, I guess you could do 1 of 2 things if you did this on carbon shafts (I really don't feel like investing the time or money required to find that answer out, I'm sure someone has tried it. The 2 things I guess you could do are...1 leave the paint alone and just fletch over top of the paint, or 2-find a compatable clear spray to protect the marble coat.
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Very nice, thank you.
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For carbon and aluminum shafts you can make a cork stopper or buy the rubber ones at 3Rivers to plug the shaft before dipping.
Mike, those shafts remind me of the 60's....haha
Good tutorial.
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I'd call David as I'm not that talented
:bigsmyl: :bigsmyl:
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What is a good sealer for carbon and aluminum? I'm thinking about trying this on some old xx75's I have
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Originally posted by Mike Vines:
Something about Red, White and Blue that I just love.
It just hit me, now I know why the paint stays there...Those 3 colors DO NOT RUN.
Amen, brother!
:clapper:
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I've done it with carbons over a white spray painted crown and did not plug the end no problem.
My only question for Mike is how do you keep the marble dip from being raised or having a rough feel to it?
By the way I did a set in Red White and Blue :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Originally posted by South MS Bowhunter:
I've done it with carbons over a white spray painted crown and did not plug the end no problem.
My only question for Mike is how do you keep the marble dip from being raised or having a rough feel to it?
As it is right now, it is pretty smooth once dry. After cresting and being dipped 2 more times in clear they are as smooth as glass.
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This has been very inspiring
Thanks Mike. :thumbsup:
Tim
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Great looking work and thanks for sharing the easy to follow info.
How many shafts will one drop of paint cover?
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Thanks for taking the time to post mate, some fine efforts right there!
Wish I had a place to make up woods again....
ak.
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Great "how to" Mike, Thanks a lot! That looks awesome! I can't buy the Testors paint over here, but I guess any oil based paint will do, as long as it is thin enough?
Does the marble trick work on all paints or do you have to use special paint for that? I use ordinary enamel paint for my crowning, as you use for painting window frames.
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Originally posted by Ranger44:
Great looking work and thanks for sharing the easy to follow info.
How many shafts will one drop of paint cover?
With the set I just did, 1 drop did 1 arrow. You will need to clean out the water after each use. I use an old wood arrow shaft. Remember I said anything stuck in the water will have paint stuck to it? Just put the old shaft in the water and stir it around. After 4 arrows I change out the water.
So to answer your question, 1 drop did 1 arrow. Same goes for multi colors too. Gou could use black, cream and white, swirl them together dip your shaft, clean the water and start all over again.
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Originally posted by Flying Dutchman:
Does the marble trick work on all paints or do you have to use special paint for that? I use ordinary enamel paint for my crowning, as you use for painting window frames.
I cannot speak for other paints. I have the combination that works for me, and is compatible with each other.
Anything I would answer your question with would only be a guess. I do know that oil and water do not mix, that is why the oil based paint floats on top of the water.
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Hey Mike! What a great tutorial! Thank you.
What shade of yellow is that? I really like those! My monitor makes them look like almost a tan color.
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Gloss yellow Rustoleum enamel.
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Here is a multi colored marble dip. Just a tinker stick to see what looks good.
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1116131156.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1116131156.jpg.html)
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Mike,
After your white crown dip, do you remove your masking tape wet or wait 'til the paint dries? I suspect you pull it while the paint is wet or you may not get the tape off or it won't come off cleanly.
homebru
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Yes, the tape is pulled as soon as I get done painting the set for that very reason. I dont want the paint to dry and stick to the tape, AND if left on, there is a defined "ridge" where the paint was terminated at the tape. If you pull the tape when the paint is wet, and stand the shafts vertical to dry gravity takes over and feathers the transition point out and allows all the paint to flow together. That's the reason I use the slow drying paint. Nothing about making arrows shoukd be done fast (In My Opinion), it should be relaxing.
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I can't wait to play around with this technique.
Thanks
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Pretty cool!
Thanks for showing how it's done..
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Well done bud!
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Very good tutorial, Mike, and an excellent job by your shop photographer. Lighting in shops is notorious for making photography difficult.
Now, the question was raised a few posts ago about your dip of "clear." I searched the Home Depot site for three days and found several thousand hits for Clear. (NOT spending any time on that nightmare site!)
If you would be so kind, pray, enlighten us regarding that mysterious ingredient to your most successful outcome. Do you experience target burn?
Killdeer
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I use Parks wood floor finish in Clear Gloss. It is a water based product that I use full strength (Read that as I do not thin it). Yes it does experience target burn, because the shaft and target when shot at is a cause for friction, and that as you know is what causes the target burn. There is a product out there that I find quite helpful to reduce noticeable target burn, and that is the Chubby Bunny field/target points made by Eclipse. I have yet to find a better product than those to cure the problem.
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Thank you! That solves one mystery and gives an avenue for experimentation.
Killdeer :wavey:
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Mike I love your arrows, really enjoy the photos as you build. Thanks for your generous sharing of knowledge and shop time. for what its worth I think you have a great attitude! you get me excited to do the next set! lol thanks, Jim
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Mike,
When you do your clear, do you dip with a gasket or just dip in an open tube?
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I dip in an open tube, hold over tube till the stream of run off turns to a drip then hang over my drip tray. Yes you waste some product, but I'm not doing this to make money. I do it because I flat out love building arrows.
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Thank you for doing this Mike. I have been wanting to improve on my arrow building skills.
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Great thread, thanks Mike!
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do you add more oil paint between dips?
thanks!
Bob
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No need to Bob. After the marble dip is dried, I crest like normal and then dip over everything. Im at work now (at lunch). When i get home, I will get a picture of the shafts that have now been finish crested, dipped and ready for feathers.
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Originally posted by moredneck:
Can you do this to carbon arrows?
Yes, just pull the nocks and plug the end.
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Mike...I meant the marbling dip...just wasn't sure if you added a drop of color after each arrow was dipped in the oil/water mix.
thanks again!
Bob
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Yes, I clean the water after each arrow and after every few, I change the water out.
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cool...thanks!
Bob
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I asked my wife to take a picture and send it to me so you all can see the finished product before I get to fletching them.
Here they are crested and drip drying...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1116131648a.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1116131648a.jpg.html)
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very informative and exciting! thanks for this thread Mike. one of the things that also draws me to traditional is all the awesome arrows I see. dave, sorry...I guess I should just call him dirtybird...made some once with orange and blue and some other colors and they blew me away...I think arrow building is a process I must learn! thanks again, your arrows are AWESOME! And I cannot wait to see the finished product. great stuff brother! and most importantly, THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE!!!
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Really good thread. I see purple marbling on my wife's shafts in the near future!
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Really nice job, Mike. I haven't gotten around to building my first set of woodies, but think it may soon be time once the season is over here.
Just a question on target burn. Would a wax or something like Armor All help reduce the friction? I'd probably actually cry if I managed to make a nice set and saw them getting wiped out by target burn.
Ron
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Okay, I couldn't stand this. Since I was busy making some new arras and all my tools and paint was on the table, I thought " oh hell, let's give this a try...." :cool:
So I took some old broken woodies. Stripped the fletching. Filled a small can with water. I mixed some red paint with white spirit to make it more fluid. Dipped a few drops in the water, YES, it floats! Stirred as described. Dipped the first shaft a few times and here was the first result: :eek:
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p525/FlyingDutchman25/3e6025f5c77d8c72cd3cc18e8903f7e2_zpsd376bb0b.jpg)
Defenitely too much paint, but hey, this seems to work.....
Throwed the water away filled a new can, and this time just one small drop of paint. Carefully now..... I spread the drop with a small stick as described over the surface. Dipping another old shaft, and here we go :D :
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p525/FlyingDutchman25/cf3714c8e129e3c3be954b9bfadbbced_zps89aa035f.jpg)
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p525/FlyingDutchman25/1e5990b8654859bffd362d5621d33880_zpsfbc7ba74.jpg)
This is very close how it should look I think. Still have to experiment with how much white spirit I have to add to have the right mix, but I think it will be a piece of a cake.
Very easy to do and I think very addictive!
The paint I use is just normal cheap anemal, as always. My guess is as long as the drop floats on the water, you are good to go!
Thanks for a great Tutorial Mike, I have an idea now how my next arrows will look like :wavey:
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That right there is EXACTLY why I did the "How To". I'm pleased you decjded to tinker around with it and see how much fun, and addicting, it can be. Your arrows will forever be changed.
Life is way to short to shoot bland or ugly arrows, UNLESS that is your preference. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
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Well thank you Mike. Those are old damaged shafts, but I think with new freshly painted shafts and a little tinkering around I think I can make them as pretty as I want to.
I just think the marble effect needs an extra transparent coating to protect it, because I can pretty easy whipe it off. But I will let it dry for 24 hours and then see how well it holds.
I am just in the process of making 24 carbon arrows, so I will see where this ends :) have to find out which transparent coating is right for my enemal paint. And accepts glue without dissolving.
Thanks again bro!
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Great thread.
Mike you are awesome with woodies.
:clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
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Here is another one i' ve done. Not the perfection yet, but getting there.
(http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p525/FlyingDutchman25/pijlen/1083ab50b616509d0c6d74446a5c5ff0_zps3a71a43d.jpg)
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Very nice. Put a nock taper on there before you dip, abd you will be surprised how much nicer it will turn out.
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Mike,
Those are carbons , so no need for a taper ;)
It is really interesting stuff. I found out that thinning the paint is important for the pattern you want. How thinner you make the paint, how finer you can get the pattern when swirling around in the water. But: the paler it will be.
I still have to find out the right mixture, counting drops here....
Also, what you see is what you get. So the pattern you see on the water surface, is the pattern you will get on your shaft after dipping.
I finally found the carpet lacquer I want, and it doesnt seem to eat my cresting. Also white spirit based. And it doesn't seem to color the white crown. So far, so good.
Tomorrow I will experiment with getting a nice dar brown color which matches nicely with my wild turkey feathers.... Can't wait!
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I have found that when results are less than desired, a cloth with some Acetone will erase it. I have not tried it on a finished shaft because I dont want to ruin the coats below, but I have done it successfully on test shafts, just not worth risking it ro me. I learn to like the finished priduct or make more.
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That's right Mike. I also found out that "dipping speed" is important. Not to slow, not to quick. When you dip to slow, you get to much paint collected on some spots, which can result in dripping. When you dip to fast, you get too less paint, so no or a very vague pattern. Rotating the shaft when dipping gives a more swirling pattern if that is what you like. And you dip only once, in and out.
If I don't like what I see, I wipe the pattern immediately away with a cloth damped with white spirit and start again. That is very easy to do and no harm done to the already painted crown. I can use white spirit because I use alkyd based enamel, which can be thinned with white spirit.
Those are all the secrets I found till sofar....
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That's pretty cool, i always wondered how that marbling was done.
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And done...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1123131738c.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1123131738c.jpg.html)
A good friend of mine saw them and I could tell he liked them, so as a surpise he is going home with them the next time he is over. I told him and he couldn't believe it.
That's what friends are for.
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They look great Mike! I also like the way how the fletching fits between the nocks and the cresting. Not much coincidence here I guess...
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This thread is awesome. I just had to try it and I'm addicted, even though I've only done 6 arrows. Learning from mistakes, have the proper dipping vase, a little paint is better than more and paper your carpet if inside!!!! Played around with a few colors and they came out better than I expected for the first time. These will get some real turkey feathers from Magnus after a clear coat.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f253/krazykrab/PB250001_zpsfaa5b424.jpg) (http://s49.photobucket.com/user/krazykrab/media/PB250001_zpsfaa5b424.jpg.html)
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Here is the finished yellow set, now to get onto the red set...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1126131924a.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1126131924a.jpg.html)
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1126131923d.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1126131923d.jpg.html)
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Mike, have you done any testing in a slighltly more northern climate to see how the dip holds up? If not I will (volunteer) to see how a dozen might perform through a whole season for ya all in the name of science ofcourse! :bigsmyl:
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You going to be at the Kzoo Expo Don?
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Planning on it Mike unless some unforeseen disaster.
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Swing by our booth, I'll have something for you. :bigsmyl:
That's what friends are for.
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Thank you so much! I feel a Thanksgiving weekend project coming on.
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I can't seem to stop having fun.
The 6 on the right have a date with a Manitoba bear next spring (at least that's if the bear reads the same script). The set on the left has a home, they just don't know it yet. The left set is a 3 color marble dip (black, olive drab and cream dipped over a Khaki base coat).
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1203132008b.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1203132008b.jpg.html)
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Mike,
Don't mean to hijack your thread (which I'm enjoying btw), but I just wanted to say I also enjoyed your DIY Mule Deer article as well. Nice work.
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:clapper: :clapper: :clapper:
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I am getting ready to try my 1st set of arrows. this looks great. also by posting I can find it quicker.
Thanks for sharing
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Mike, is there a trick to get the drop to float? When I put the first drop of testors paint on the water it almost spreads across the complete surface of the water, the second drop looks just like yours.
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I've tried the marbling effect on some carbon shafts and they turned out real nice however the paint does not lay flat and smooth on the shaft. It is definitely raised and textured feeling to the touch.
Any ideas on how to get a smooth finish???
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Very unique looking pattern. That looks like it takes some time to master.
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No trick to get it to float. I have noticed that the thinner the paint is, that it tends to spread out. No biggie, you can still get the same effect.
When the paint is dry, there is no noticeable texture to the marble dip. That being said, if you have any "Globs" of paint on the shaft, it will not dry smooth and flat with the shaft. I had that problem happen at first, so I practiced a couple more times and no texture now. You just need to make sure you don't have any large one spot concentration of paint floating on top. Make sure you have it all swirled together really good. If you continue to have that texrure problem, your using to much paint, or not swirling it on top of the water enough.
I have learned the darker the color, I use only 1 drop. The ligher the color, I use 2 drops.
Take for instance the picture at the top of this page. The pink set was done with 1 drop of black paint. The multi colored set was done with 1 drop of black, 2 drops of olive drab and 2 drops of cream. Make sure they are swirled together nicely and you will be extreamly pleased with the results.
End result...they are smooth enough that you cannot feel a thing when you close your eyes and run your fingers over them. I learned that trick from a Master Carpenter I worked alongside for 13 years (I was extreamly fortunate that he liked me and took me under his wing). He used to ALWAYS come and run his hands over my finished product and tell me it's not sanded enough, you will see the joint. He finally taught me, after having to correct me to many times, "If you close your eyes and run your hand over it, you will feel your flaws". From that day forward he never had to correct me again. No amount of paint or clear coat can cure imperfect work.
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You were right! It still worked fine. These are the first shafts that I have ever done like this, I will do more!
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee98/Benjy45/DSC07767_zpscfc9b1b7.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/Benjy45/media/DSC07767_zpscfc9b1b7.jpg.html)
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee98/Benjy45/DSC07766_zps5e97928f.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/Benjy45/media/DSC07766_zps5e97928f.jpg.html)
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Thanks for this how-to Mike. Your arrows look amazing. I always enjoy seeing the arrows you create.
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Works great on carbon's also!
Thanks for the thread! I am having fun now!
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee98/Benjy45/TradGang/DSC07771_zps95e37aa2.jpg) (http://s235.photobucket.com/user/Benjy45/media/TradGang/DSC07771_zps95e37aa2.jpg.html)
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I've been doing marble dips for years and have a few things that made a difference for me in the quality of the dipping.
1. if you can, draw the water into whatever container you are using a couple of hours before starting. This lets any air bubbles in the water go away and keeps them from attaching to your arrows and causing blank spots or water spots/voids. Room temp water seems to work best.
2. I use a five gallon bucket filled to the level I want to dip, then I put 6 or 8 lengths of pvc pipe, cut an inch or two longer than the depth of the water into the bucket. This makes 6 or 8 different dipping pools in the same bucket. Use one pool for a couple of dips and then move to the next pool, add paint and dip again without having to clean out the old paint. I usually get 2 quality dips before I move on to the next pool.
3. I use rustoleum spray paint for the main crown and testors model paint for the dip. On occasion if the main crown has dried for a while, week or more, the marbling will not take to the shiny finish as well as you might want. It will look fine, but when you fletch with duco it will only penetrate the swirl paint and not the main crown paint enough to really hold fast,,,,so scuff the crown lightly with some 0000 steel wool before swirling.
It really is fun to have unique arrows so get creative and have a blast.
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Forgot to say that the pvc pipe I use is 3 to 4 inch diameter
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And now the pink ones are complete. Bring on the Manitoba bears for these...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1211131721b.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1211131721b.jpg.html)
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Nice Mike!! :thumbsup: I'm jealous your headed north this spring :)
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Last set for now. These are being donated to the Professional Bowhunters Society (PBS) if you are not aware of the Organization, I suggest you look them up. You will not find a better group of people on an International level that I am aware of. I have not mounted the Eclipse broadheads and Chubby Bunny field points, but soon will before they head off to the Banquet in Cincinnati this coming March...
(http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab28/miklvines/Tradgang/1228131027.jpg) (http://s846.photobucket.com/user/miklvines/media/Tradgang/1228131027.jpg.html)
Is anybody else playing with the marbling effect and want to show off their creations on this thread? Please do so, and show others how simple it really is.