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Topic Archives => How To - Resources => Topic started by: JimB on September 16, 2010, 09:13:00 PM
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This has come up a lot.I'm no sharpening genius but have tried several ways and all got them sharp,including the KME knife sharpener,but now I have worked out an almost idiot proof system using the KME broadhead sharpener,a DMT Diasharp diamond hone and an array of different grit wet or dry papers.I can almost close my eyes (not recomended) and get this done.
Before sharpening,I go over the head and file off any burrs left from stamping out the metal.Areas are marked in yellow.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/GrizzlySharpening002.jpg)
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You can feel when it's gone.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/GrizzlySharpening003.jpg)
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I colored the edge with a blue Sharpie,so I can see my progress.Why blue? That is what was in my pocket.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/GrizzlySharpening004.jpg)
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The Diasharp hone is 3"X8"X 3/8" steel bar with diamond impregnating the top surface.This is a precision hone but the 120 micron is very aggressive but that is needed here as these bevels are way off what they should be.
I have sharpened a bunch lately and they follow fairly closely to the angle of the KME.Not this batch of 6.I measure their angle at 32 dehrees.A far cry from 25.
On most of the newer Grizzlies I have done,a 220 hone would work.
The holder is nice to have too.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/GrizzlySharpening005.jpg)
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Clamping the broadhead.I want a repeatable clamp so I put the rear of the broadhead blade at the edge of the clamp and the point of the clamp at the tip of the broadhead's ferrule.The blade edge should be parallel with the rear edge of the clamp.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/GrizzlySharpening006.jpg)
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Before I do any bevel sharpening,I lay the flat back of the blade on the hone and and pull it along to true uo that back surface.I just propped it there for the picture but I press the blade down with two fingers of my left had and pull the KME with my right.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/GrizzlySharpening007.jpg)
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Some uneveness was removed.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/GrizzlySharpening008.jpg)
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I'm not showing the KME in action but this is it,flipped over to show the work of the first few strokes.These are going to take more work than normal.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/GrizzlySharpening009.jpg)
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The bevel is developing but has a ways to go.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/GrizzlySharpening010.jpg)
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Now the bevel id developed clear the the edge.That took some agressive honing and an agressive stone.It took about 10 minutes which is at least twice that of the last bunch I did.The hard part is over.It goes quickly from here.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/GrizzlySharpening011.jpg)
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While the camera wasn't looking,I cheated.I have a 220 diamond hone and a 325.I gave several strokes on each and now am going to wet or dry sandpaper in a variety of grits from 400 to 2000.You could start with one 220 diamond hone or no hone at all and use 120-220 grit papers on a hard,true surface and go through grits as fine as you like.I cut my papers to lay on the steel hone.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/GrizzlySharpening012.jpg)
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So the KME are riding on the block on the counter? And moving point first toward you lengthwise on the stone?
These are great pics for a guy like me that only does 3 blades.
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I just raise the front of my hone and pinch the front of the paper under it.I pull the rear of the paper taut with my left hand and work the KME with my right.This goes very quickly.You just need several strokes with each grit now.After stroking the bevel,I flip it over and draw the flat back a couple times,then go on to the next grit and repeat.
You don't need or want much pressure,going through these papers and even less as you get finer.You have developed a fine little burr along the edge and it goes back and forth as you hone the bevel and then the flat back of the blade.Hopefully you work it off during the 2000 grit stage.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/GrizzlySharpening013.jpg)
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Nice little tutorial. Thanks for sharing your photos and comments. Should come in handy.
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No Stevo,I just propped it on the block so I could put 2 hands on the camera.I hold the blade flat to the stone with my left,feeling the contact and draw the fixture with my right.The would block isn't used.
I took this one to the 2000 grit stage and the burr came off pretty well.I sometimes strop with cardbord at this point.Here is the finished edge.
I have also sharpened double bevel two blades like the STOS using almost the same technique.The difference is,you sharpen one bevel,swivel the clamp,sharpen the other side bevel,then move to the next grit.The results are the same.The KME and a good,flat honing surface keep a tremendous consistency and it is repeatable.It keeps me from screwing up and I need that.
My apologies to moderators.I probably put this in the wrong section but didn't think about it till part way through.I may get a call and have to run out so have been fighting the clock a little,getting this up.I hope you can move it to the appropriate place if need be.Thanks.
If I have to run,I will try to get back if there are any questions on anything I may have skipped over.Be careful with these.They will cut.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/GrizzlySharpening014.jpg)
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Thanks Jim! Great how to :thumbsup:
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I forgot to mention that I measured my finished angle at 27 degrees.This batch required way more metal to come off and a lot more work than any of the other new grizzlies I have done but the finished product is worth it and resharpening after shooting will be much easier than the first time.The rough part is getting that bevel straightened out.Some of the more expensive single bevels like Abowyers have a much more refined edge and should go a lot quicker.
I did neglect to weigh this head before starting.This batch ran heavy at 212 grs to 216 grs because the 32 degree bevel just didn't take off as much metal as others I bought.After sharpening one side and removing a lot of metal,this one still weighed 208 grs.
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So how long did one head take?
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:campfire:
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That was great Thanks !!
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Pictures are worth a thousand words. Thank you for taking the time.....I am using replaceable blade stingers and a kme and still trying to figure out the best routine
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Jim,
When your grinding the bevel in...are you going back and forth with the kme clamp?
And when you have moved on to the finer grits...
are you just using forward strokes to take the burr off?
thanks,
sammy
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This is a great time of year for this thread to be on Pow Wow. Always lots of sharpening questions. If it looks like the thread is going to slip away, I'll move it to the "How To" forum.
Well done.
:thumbsup:
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So how long did one head take?
It probably took about 10 minutes per side.Like I said before,this batch of heads had the angle way off at 32 degrees.I had to change the entire bevel to 27.A belt sander and jig would have been more efficient for this batch.
I recently sharpened 2 other packs of (6)of the new El Grandes and they came much closer to 26-27 degrees and they went much faster-probably half the time.
I start off pretty agressively,forward and back.At this stage I am just knocking metal off to get a full bevel,the same angle as the KME because that is what I will use for future touch ups.I pretty much do the back and forth till I get to the last grit,then I am drawing away from the edge and only enough pressure to know the entire edge is in contact with the paper.I shouldn't even call it pressure.A light touch.Once the full bevel was established,not much pressure was needed.I am only trying to eliminate most of the scratches from the previous grit.I am also taking one or two strokes on the flat side with each grit before moving to the next.
As I said before,once the hard work of establishing the bevel is done,it gets easy and quick.I didn't time it but I probably don't spend more than 30 seconds per grit,making several strokes on the bevell and a couple on the back side.Light strokes after "grinding" the bevel and getting lighter with each successive grit.
I sharpened some Zwickey Eskimos afterwards and they went very fast.
Many people use the sandpaper over glass and I'm sure that works equally well.
Sharpening a single bevel isn't that different from anything else.You develope a burr and work it back and forth till it comes off.With the single bevel,you put the flat back of the blade down on the stone,rather than a second bevel.
The Grizzly is made of hard steel and has a coarse grind so it is a challenge but the KME and coarse grit to start,takes the fight out of it.This should work well on Tuskers too and most popular 2 blades should be just a snap.
The real work AND time,is just in truing up that bevel.many other broadheads won't require that kind of effort.
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I should have taken this picture last night but was in a hurry and didn't dig out my tripod.
If you go back to the beginning,where I drew the non bevel side across the hone to even it up,this is how I hold the head and KME.I sort of tilt the blade and then let it settle down on the hone and with the thumb and index finger of my left hand,I can feel the "click" when the flat of the blade makes full contact with the hone.I then lightly draw the point toward me a few strokes.
This is exactly the same thing I do for a couple strokes after honing the bevel with each successsive grit.Naturally,the broadhead ferrule has to be off the hone to get the blade flat down on it.The tips of my fingers feel when I have full contact and they also provide just enough pressure to keep it down on the hone.
I can't emphasize enough,I'm no sharpening expert.I have struggled with this as much as anyone.That is exactly why I am posting this,hoping that someone else can get something from it.Out of necessity,I worked out my own way of getting this done,with the least amount of effort and this especially applies to re-sharpening.I'm no sharpening expert but I did buy my sharpener from one.
(http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a140/jbrandenburg/GrizzlySharpening019.jpg)
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Um, we need to get one of your buddy's to come over and take a little video to post from start to finish.
Thank you, this was excellent.
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Nice how-to Jim!!!