Shooting bare shaft from my Bear Montana Longbow, the nock is left a considerable amount. So, my arrow is showing weak, obviously. I'm assuming I need to cut it down some. I don't want to reduce point weight because I am already at 125 grains.
What are my options? :help:
Bow Specs:
Bear Montana LB - 45# @28 inches
I draw 27 inches.
Arrow Specs:
Brand: Easton Axis Traditional Carbons
Size: 500
Wt: 8.9
Length: 31".
Straightness factor: ±0.003".
Wt. tolerance: ±.002.
Dia: .265".
Point weight: 125 grains.
And I am assuming you are right handed?
Ah, yes! Sorry. Left that one out. I thought I had everything. haha
I am right handed.
You could try footing with 2-3" of aluminum shaft. That would stiffen, increase foc, and make shaft more durable. Use hot melt to try it, so if you don't like it you can easily remove or adjust.
Here are three choices:
1. Cut the shafts shorter
2. Shorten your draw length to 24 inches or so :)
3. Use 12-15 inch fletches :)
I would throw a 200 or 250 point on there to make sure you aren't getting a false reading.
I shoot a bow with more D/R than the montana at 48@28" with 500s 30.5" long and 200 up front.
Also mine is cut to center, not sure on the Montana....
I'm with kennym - sounds like a false reading.
I shoot a #49@28" longbow (I draw 28), not cut to center - I shoot GT Trad 500s, 30-1/2" BOP, with 150gr and 50gr inserts. And footed with 1-1/4" aluminum.
Thanks guys.
Would a false reading be perfectly the same every time? If so, what would cause the false reading every time?
My form? :banghead:
You can also bump your strike plate out with a toothpick and leave the arrows as is, might take a little less than a toothpick of thickness, might take a little more.
I'm not sure why nobody suggested going to a stiffer shaft, which would have been my first suggestion. Am I missing something?
QuoteOriginally posted by McDave:
I'm not sure why nobody suggested going to a stiffer shaft, which would have been my first suggestion. Am I missing something?
Same thought here.
Hard to imagine 42# effective draw and 500 shaft with 125 up front as being weak.
FWIW, my 55# Montana likes 29" 400's with 250 up front, I draw 28.5".
If you only draw 27 I would shorten till they fly correctly.
I draw 27.5 and on 4 45 lb bows that I have had,I used the same arrow as you are using - 500 spine easton axis trad. I end up around a 29 in arrow with a 150 to 200 up front, depending on what bow and what my goal is with arrow weight.
From my experience I would say you have the correct spine, just need to shorten.
For an example I have a 50 lb at 28 bow that is above average in the speed dept. I tried my 400 spine arrows from another bow of the same draw weight and they were weak. So I tried some 350 spine arrows and they tuned well at 32 in, but man thats really long. So I went back to a 400 spine and shortened till it flew correct.those tuned well at 28 1/2in - wich barely works for my draw - but it works without cutting my fingers on the BH.
If you really want good flight you gotta cut em till they fly like a dart. When they are right, if you do your part, they will shoot right with your fletched arrow at 30 yds . its a good feeling when you get that and it flys like that over n over!
Take one arrow, keep cutting it and trying it until you get it to fly correctly. Then cut the rest to that length. It really is that simple. Then report back to us.
I was wondering why the 31" length to start with? I shoot a similar setup with 27" draw but my arrows are 28 1/2" and 200 gr tips on 500 FMJ's and feel they are too long. I can also shoot them on my past center cut recurves up to 55# with no difference in impact left to right.
So your hitting left or your arrow is just tilted left? One has way more meaning than the other.
Cut arrows 1/4"-3/8" at a time and watch your arrows straighten out. IMHO a 30+" arrow with 125gr up front is way too long and weak especially with your 27" draw and a 45# bow.
Thanks everyone! Great tips. Can't work on it today because I have my daughter's birthday party.
I'll report back asap.
Another thought, if you like 2+" extending beyond your riser,go to a stiffer arrow. That would also work! This is part of the fun of traditional archery!!
:bigsmyl: chery!
Okay. This may seem crazy, but today I checked my brace height and it was an inch under what Bear recommends for the Montana (7 1/2 to 8/12). I know, I should have already checked it! :thumbsup:
Yep. The low brace height was causing the shaft to bounce off the strike/side plate, causing the nock to enter left. Good the arrows are flying right for you now. I think .500s are a bit stiff for your draw length/point weight, but the extra length compensates. Definitely do not shorten them unless you want to go to a heavier head.
Somewhere down the road, you might want to try some .600 shafts. Might like what you find. Good luck.
Thanks Orion! That makes sense. Since I'm only 11 days out from deer season, I will wait until spring to make any more adjustments. But I may increase my point weight then.
My total arrow weight from nock to point right now is 440 even. I'd like to bump it closer to 500, but I think I'm good for whitetails for now.
Tennis ball sized groups at 15 yards is pretty darn good. You must be doing things consistently. Correctly -maybe / maybe not, you'll find out later.
I'd stick with it those arrows for now (without cutting too many more of them)) and practice practice, practice, practice, practice, and practice even more.
You'll tweak your form multiple times, multipe times, and multiple times and eventually you'll acheive a feeling in your shot cycle that's goooooood.
When your shot cycle starts feeling like second nature to you, and your bow and arrow feel like an extension of your body, you'll almost salivate when you focus on a small spot that you're about to draw on. If you're feeling this and consistently grouping tennis ball size or smaller day in/ day out - your arrows are pretty darn well matched to you and your bow. You may be able to tweak things to even better - but tennis ball groups at 15 is good to go for hunting.
Out of curiosity, do you know what the string material is on that Montana? It matters.
Thanks for the encouragement Darryl! I am pretty tough on myself when it comes to getting things right. I want to be as ethical a hunter as I can be.
Mike, the string is a D97 Flemish, the factory string. I'm planning on ordering a custom one soon.
D-97 :thumbsup: good to know.
Not trying to be a smarty pants, but the most obvious solution is to buy some stiffer spine arrows/shafts.
Thanks for the input John. I know I may have messed up and purchased the wrong spine shaft, and I know I could purchase more, but it's just not in the budget to do so right now. Those things ain't cheap. haha