Just something to think about for those of you considering buying a longbow for the first time: I bought my first just a couple of months back, a new Bear Montana, RH 50#. Having had compounds, I didn't trust myself to start with more poundage, and didn't have anyone else's bow to try first. And at the pro shop, the #50 felt right at the edge of comfortable when they let me shoot it before buying. They didn't have any heavier longbows on hand. With occasional shooting over the past 10 weeks or so, I find the 50 is more than easy to shoot, and wish I had pushed the envelope just a smidge and ordered a 60. Of course, the 50 will do the same work as a 60, but not quite as fast or as flat. Something to consider if you are on the fence.
Generally speaking I think you are better going to a lighter weight bow when switching from a compound.
When I made the switch I shot an old 60# Bear that my dad used to use. Worst mistake I ever made. After a week my shoulders and elbows hurt to bad to shoot and my form went to hell. And I was used to shooting wheel bows in the 60-70# range.
I then switched back to a 45# recurve and progressively added weight. Now I shoot bows in the 50-55# range. Plenty big enough to take down anything I'm going to hunt in the US.
While it may have worked for you, I think it is generally bad to jump in with a bow that high in poundage.
Just my 2cents
I'm shooting about 53 pounds on my longbow and I have no trouble hitting a sixty yard target with it. It's not just about how much weight you can handle, it's about how well you shoot the bow on that cold morning after you've sit awhile. It's also about comfort and confidence. Wherever that falls on you weight-wise, then go with that.
My recommendation, fill the freezer for a year or two with the bow you have. Then, re-assess the need for another bow at a heavier poundage.
Lots of good advice in this set of posts so far. I think if you took a poll on draw weight you would find that most of us shoot in the 50-55 pound range.
Starting out with something that is/was easy to handle was the best investment in traditional archery you could have made.
It helps prevent target panic, and a host of other
bad habits that can be hard to break.
Most people end up wishing they had bought a bow that was lighter, than the one they bought.
You will have zero problems trading or selling to move up to a heavier weight. There are always plenty of folks selling bows over 50 pounds. Particularly 55 and up. Wonder why that is?
Better think twice, 60 is a lot more than 50. Only 10lbs, but when you actually shoot it, seems like more.
But the bright side, you have an excuse to ADD a 55 and 60 lb bow!
one bow is never enough! The Montana is reasonable, why not buy another? Use the light one for small game,targets, ect.
Check out Montana bows!!!! awesome bowyer and proeduct to boot!!!! something about his longbow , its a great and I mean great shooting bow!!! :thumbsup:
Bill, 50 shoots as fast and flat as 60. I never understand why guys say that. If you draw both bows the same and shoot the same grains per pound for the respective bow a bow of the same design, both will shoot the same speed. IE: 50#s at 28"s 450 grain arrow equals 9gpp 185fps.now a 60# at 28"s 540 grain arrow 9gpp. 185fps. See what I mean more poundge does not mean more speed unless you are shooting a lighter arrow. Shawn
Lighter poundage shooting won't likely stop you from shooting down the road whereas shooting the high poundage can cause you to stop long before you're ready to call it quits.
God bless,Mudd 47@28
40,50,60, 70 # etc. they will all do the job. It's not the poundage, it's the shot placement. Shoot what ever poundage you can shoot comfortably and accurately under all conditions (cold weater, etc.)
Ditto what Shawn said!!!!! :thumbsup:
In Oregon they have a minimum weight for hunting. It is 45# for deer and 50# for elk. Are there weight limits in some of your states?
In NH it is 60# for moose. I started with a 50 and went to 60 for that reason when it became time to buy a custom. Of course, I have never hunted moose! :) But now the 60 feels every bit as comfortable now as the 50 did then. I don't believe that it is going to cause joint problems, not if you stay in shape anyway.
Good advice, guys. Think I will stick with the 50# long bow for at least a season. My joints aren't getting any younger.
Alaska - 50# - Mountain goat, Moose, Brownie, Elk, Musk Ox and Bison.
40# - Blacktail, Wolf, Woverine, Black Bear, Dall Sheep and Caribou.
Also IBEP or equivalent Certification required for Archery only hunts.
I started shooting 60lbs. Now that Im used to the weight when I shoot my 50lbs it just feels funy. I can't get used to it. Gilbert
10 pounds is a big difference (20%) in a recurve. I find 56 lbs manageable and 60 too much. I wouldn't doubt your decision. It'll kill anything you want in North America.
The sage advice concerning over-bowing offered in preceding posts applies as much to recurves as it does to longbows. It takes some serious practice with much attention paid to form to identify the over-bowed threshold. My 54 year old body needed a couple months of recovery when I crossed that line and failed to heed the warning signs!
Take it from a young guy 43 who shot heavy bows for years 60-80#s, it does wear on ya. Some more than others, I am due for my second shoulder surgery and they are party due to shooting those heavy bows for years. Shawn
when you make the jump up do it in moderation. i know when you get a new bow all you want to do is shoot it and after your fingers and shoulder hurts to the point of teeth grinding at full draw, all you want to do is shoot your new bow.
make shure you stop before you feel uncomfortable eventualy it wont get uncomfortable.
A couple years ago i started shooting a 45#, then a 55# then a 67# now the heavy one feels like the lightest one did. ill be jumping to 71 then 77 hopefully. if not oh well. buy a take down next time and going up in weight wont cost nearly as much. and maybe a thicker glove or tab
I love my #65 pound Bear Montana, and wouldn't trade it for anything. In fact, I plan on making my next bow one that's at least 5-10 pounds heavier. That said, I would in no way feel undergunned with a 50 pound bow. Heck, with properly tuned arrows, I wouldn't sweat it with 40...
For $20.00 change the rope string on the
Bear Montana to a good 10 or 12 strand DF97/8125 with padded loops. That will give you the performance you are looking for at a fraction of the cost.
Pete
I started shooting trad back about a year ago. I purchased a 50# Martin Recurve because I knew my FORM would be critical and wanted to concentrate on that and my accuracy rather than "fight" a heavy bow while learning to shoot trad. Best thing I could have done. I also learned that tuning my bow and arrows is a must. I'm shooting this bow with total confidence. As a result of learning how to tune my arrows(and the world of difference it makes) I spend more time thinking about that, then I do about the bow.
We are all put together a little differently. I am 66 years old and shoot a 68#@28" Black Widow recurve, drawing 29". AND, I shoot very well. That doesn't mean what I do is what anyone else should do. Don't hurt yourself, but shoot the heaviest bow you are comforable with. I killed my first with a 55# bow when I was 14 years old and have not shot anything lighter since.
like ia hawkeye posted, shot placement is paramount. last night i shot a buck through the shoulder, the arrow went in 9". i short drew the bow because of the position i was in. i've killed over 30 deer and i have never seen one die as fast as that one did. hit them in the wheezer bag [lungs] and they are DEAD.
An easy pulling bow is WAY BETTER than not-so-easy pulling bow.
With sharp broadheads and a competent archer at the helm, 50# of stickbow is enough to get the job done in North America.
Besides, you know yer gonna git another bow, right? :D
PS - I'll second what PeteW said: you wanna brace that Montana with a 12 strand modern fiber bowstring, it'll make a difference for the better.
I started out with a 53 pounder, and I was most deftly what they call " over bowed ", I'm now shooting a three-piece takedown Turkey Creek Longbow 43# @ 29" 63" 428 Gr. arrow with 125 G. Broadhead on the front total arrow weight 428 G. arrow speed is 190 fps, and that's pretty decent for a 43#, and the most that I will move up to will be probably a 48 pounder, but it will most definitely be:
Turkey Creek Longbow, they have fabulous performance.
Carl
Bowspirit,
Where did you find a 65 lb Montana?
Paul
Hello Bill,
I think one thing that as far as I can tell nobody else has mentioned, You need consider your ability to draw a heavy bow after sitting on stand for a few hours. I have had the u
Wow,, sorry Bill.. to continue my thought... I have had the unfortunate experience of NOT being able to come to full draw on a nice deer at about 10 yards while hunting in 25 to 30 degree weather.
Took two tries, by that time, deer had flown the coop! I now like to shoot bows in the 45# to 55# range and save my heavy bow for early season only!
Harry.
One size does not fit all....gotta find the weight that works for you...and one that YOU want and YOU can handle.
I'm almost 43, and I've been shooting 60-80#s since High School...and I aint never had any shoulder problems...or any ailments from shooting.
Why would a 150# guy at the gym tell a 250# guy at the gym that he should only do 30# curls...cause the 250# guy might hurt himself doing 45# curls???
Oh, and 60#s is faster than 50#s without a lighter arrow....but with the same arrow.
I have 3 MOABS at 60, a 64, and a 70#. If I shoot my whitetail arrows at 530 grains, care to guess the order of which poundage is faster?....and what if I grab my 630 grain hog arrows....again, which bow will move that 630 grains faster?
I just started shooting a bow 6# heavier than my "go to" bow. It feels like a lot more than 6#. A 10# jump is big for most folks. Try to borrow a friends 60 pounder and shoot it for a few days before you make that jump. You may be glad that you did.
QuoteOriginally posted by Terry Green:
One size does not fit all....gotta find the weight that works for you...and one that YOU want and YOU can handle.
I'm almost 43, and I've been shooting 60-80#s since High School...and I aint never had any shoulder problems...or any ailments from shooting.
Why would a 150# guy at the gym tell a 250# guy at the gym that he should only do 30# curls...cause the 250# guy might hurt himself doing 45# curls???
Oh, and 60#s is faster than 50#s without a lighter arrow....but with the same arrow.
I have 3 MOABS at 60, a 64, and a 70#. If I shoot my whitetail arrows at 530 grains, care to guess the order of which poundage is faster?....and what if I grab my 630 grain hog arrows....again, which bow will move that 630 grains faster?
Excellent reply...............
I ask myself when these threads appear why the bus seems to drop off a load of anti weight guys. Sorry if that upsets any of you, but I have to call it like I see it.
I shoot very heavy bows with the lightest acceptable arrows. I just had a conversation with Dave Windauer yesterday about a 625 grain Grizzlystik out of one of my 75lb Silvertips. It is at the bottom of the charts in regards to 8 grains per pound but my arrow smokes. And penetration is not an issue.
Like Terry said shoot what you want and enjoy. I myself have never had a single injury or ache and I shoot bows up into the mid 80lb range. It is flat out fun. I can also draw the bow in hot or cold weather. I have conditioned myself to shoot these bows and enjoy them.
It might not be for everyone, but it is up to the archer to decide. There is no right or wrong answer only what works for you and you have fun doing and are effective with.
Yes same arrow but that was not his point. A lot of guys do not shoot ADs so they have to find an arroqw to spine for different weights so no the 60# bow is not faster with all else being equal grains oer oound and draw length. I am a big dude and it is fine ya can shoot heavyweights, that is up to the individual, but if you are hard on your body like I have been than ya have to do what ya got to do. Remember I said those weight were just a contributing factor, others were a long football career and falls and countless other things from hard labor all my life. Shoot what ya can and what ya want just be careful as it could not will have an effect on you at some point! Shawn
I thik too many People try and say that 45 or 50 lbs is enough but is it you are handicaping yourself with low poundage bows and they are harder to shoot any distance as your arc ishuge so if your game is a little farther than you think or shoot or you dont get that perfect shot placemnent you will not harvest any game also with carbon arrows you will allways find a spline at any poundage you shoot you owe it to the game you harvest to shoot the heavest poundage you can handle well and in hunting you usally only get 1 shot so what is the big deal about low poundage bows :banghead:
A 60# bow with 600 grain arrows may shoot as flat as a 40# bow with 400 grain arrows but why stop at that. Why not just shoot a 20# bow with 200 grain arrows.
I just don't understand when people say light bows are equal to heavy bows in performance.
I picked up a 65# longbow after many years of hunting with compounds and didn't have much of a problem with the weight.
Gordon,
Most bow kills are from 20 yards or closer. "arc" of the arrow is not really much of a factor at those ranges. If one chooses to take longer shots (which I wouldn't do), then yea, a flatter shooting bow would be advantageous.
Bow weight is over rated. Bow design matters. If your bow flings an arrow of the same weight as fast as a 60lb bow what's the differance? You'll shoot the lighter bow better. If you're going to buy a new bow, shop around and find a fast bow over the heavy draw bow.
Gotta ask, you just flinging quills for fun & 3Ds etc.? Or are you bow hunting? Both?
In my younger days I shot fairly heavy bows, 65 to 70#ers. Then an unrelated back injury, kept shooting heavies with just arm strength alone, til I blew shoulder. Switched hands & kept shooting heavies til I could no longer draw any kind of bow. Yep, I was stupid.
Having had a few years without flinging a quill, (which I love to do anytime!) gave me time to think some.
What's the single most important thing to me in archery or hunting? Putting the arrow exactly where I want it to go out to the range I hunt.
Draw weight, arrow weight, do not mean much to me. Legal draw weight in B.C. for big game is 40#. Place an arrow in the right place with a 40# bow & the critter will very likely expire in a very short time.
Sometimes I find my form is a little sloppy with a light draw bow as the string just does not seem to jump from my fingers smoothly. Personal thing & likely everyone has some little personal quirk.
Bottom line, find a bow that feels right, shoots right, & is capable of doing the job you wish it to do. In time you'll know what a "sweet" bow is for you. You will find the perfect bow for you. Then you'll sell it to get something bigger, stronger, faster, smoother, nicer, etc. etc. etc.
The rest is up to you....LOL.
In truth, archery is mostly about confidence. In your equipment & yourself. Become one with your bow whatever draw weight it is & you will enjoy it. Start struggling with your equipment, and/or yourself (mind, body, whatever) & the joy will slowly start to dissipate away.
Weight,...hmmm... wish I was lighter & my bow heavier?...LOL. I hunt with any of my bows. Draw weights are between 43# & 58#.
The bow I like best? The one that I can put 19 arrows out of 20 into a 6" paper plate at my self imposed range every time.
Longest shot I've ever taken at a critter? 27 yds. 2nd longest? 23 yds. 95% of the rest were under 18 yds. Every bow I own is capable of doing the job. The rest is up to me to be "capable" of getting the job done & as a hunter, my responsiblity out of respect for that which I hunt. Please be responsible.
We bow hunt not so much for the thrill of success, but for the love of the hunt.