Do any of you have to grip a bow harder on some bows then the other? i dont have to grip my bob lee hard and i shoot great with it but i just went to my lighter bear super grizzly and i get string slap like crazy with it, this goes away when i grip the bow harder, i dont get it
String slap is a function of brace height and/or sideways torquing of the bow, and/or not rotating the forearm out of the way. Really has nothing to do with how hard you grip the bow, except that if you grip it real hard, you may not torque it as much. On the other hand a death grip usually contributes to torquing. Hard to say.
if i grip this bow harder i have no issue, the bow seems to jump left when i shoot then hit my arm and go right, the bow is very light in mass weight
What GPP arrows are you shooting? I have a vintage grizzly and it likes a pretty high brace height, around 8.25-8.5 inches. Any less than that, it is noisy (subjective, if you get used to the sound). I've never shot less than 10 GPP out of it (it's 45# @28 and 465 grains is the lightest arrow it's seen from me). Could be brace height needs adjusting, too light of an arrow or you could be torquing the riser. I'd first try an arrow 10GPP and up then experiment with the brace height but try not to over think it.
tried heavy and lighter ones same problem
I was randomly having wierd arrow flight out of one of my bows.
So I had my brother slo mo the riser area on his phone while I shot. Found exactly what was mentioned here,
The bow was turning sideways in my hand as the string comes forward.
I draw all bows with an open hand to let them find there home in my hand, and then touch my pointer finger and thumb together, not actually holding the bow, just keeping it from jumping out of my hand.
So on this bow I now draw the same and then press straight back with my first and second finger so the bow does not turn as the string comes forward. Tightened up the groups considerable and does not turn side ways. Also got rid of the random wierd arrow flight.
I'll give it a shot tomorrow thanks
It has been a long time since I regularly shot recurves, but I did hold them less firmly than my longbows. I hold the longbow hard by comparison, but it is more "firm" than actually "hard". You have to control the Hill bow, but not choke it to death. I had a greater tendency to torque the recurve more, also, probably due to the lighter grip.
I wish I had something productive to offer.
I don't grip any of my lonbbows or recurves.
I do however,have to lighly grip my selfbow or it will get away from me.
What do you mean you don't grip them?
I believe he means a relaxed hand and not squeezing the handle.
Im more consistent when I grip a bow snugly. Thats both recurves and longbows. Ive been shooting that way for about 20 yrs now...... Find what works for you.
I shoot recurves virtually straight wristed holding with just the web between my thumb and forefinger. Longbows get a firm grip down the entire palm. My all-wood bow takes a different grip entirely. I need to palm that bow and make sure I keep my wrist turned so I get enough string clearance to my bow arm.
In short, I'll work with a bow to see what works best and the above are what generally work across those types of bows for me.
Mike
Found the same solution as batbow for a low wrist grip '59 Kodiak Special. I do just the opposite for a '62 Kodiak Special with a fatter grip and open my hand even more for it than I do my other bows, even those with a pistol grip. So like you, I too had the '59 KS turn slightly when released so had to change my open grip slightly for it.