I ordered a new bow and plan on taking the plunge into wood arrows. I ordered a dozen of the pre-finished shafts from 3R, all my tools and components, etc. Just wondering what the best way to cut them is without an expensive cutoff saw? I'm also assuming since they have to be tapered that the cut doesn't have to be as precisely square as Carbon or Aluminum.
I just use a hacksaw or some other fine tooth saw. Remember when you cut them to cut a full radius around shaft first. If you just start on one side and cut straight through the wood will split at the end and can leave a nasty gouge past the end of the point. Also allow for the length of your taper in your total arrow length. My taper tool does a 3/4 inch of taper. So if you want a 29" arrow you have to cut them to 29 3/4". DON'T just cut them to the length you want! You will be left with awesome arrows that are tooooooo short.
I would assume that the 3R pre-finished shafts are cedar. Mark your shaft with a pencil or marker to your length and remember to leave room for your taper or your shaft will be too short after the taper is cut. You can make a good straight cut with a simple hand saw with gentle pressure and let the saw blade do the work, then taper with the tapering tool.
I just made a video on it if you can't figure it out from my Verbage. I can email it to you if you would like.
Great advice thanks. I have a cordless dremel but it can be hard to get a good square cut. I will stop at home depot tomorrow to get a small hand saw. I need to get materials to make an archery work bench anyway. The top of my chest freezer is taking a beating and my hobby needs a more permanent location.
Roll them on the table under the blade of a pocket knife. I like to use my opinel since it has a pretty thin cutting edge.
I have used to cut my woods for years a hobby saw and miter box. I use the fine blade for both wood and aluminum. The kit was about $12 a few years ago.
I have used the hacksaw as well, it works great. I feel the fine teeth help you get the nicer cut.
Sent you a PM with my Email KSHunter
I just made a video on it if you can't figure it out from my Verbage. I can email it to you if you would like.
Been doing it for years like Longtoke suggested. Very simple, neat and clean. The thin knife blade really does help.
I put 2 tight rubber bands on the whole dozen tap them flat on a table then cut them all slowly with a chop saw.
I cut mine on a band saw with them wrapped in rubber bands so I can do the dozen all at once
fine toothed box saw
X2 what kshunter 55 said about a full radius cut first.
Deno
All you have to do, is score them all the way around with a thin blade like a box knife. Once scored nicely, slide the shaft end out on something solid like a table edge to support right at the score. Then carefully break the shaft at the score line. I like to kind of work my way around the shaft as Im breaking it. Snaps off good and clean every time if you do it right, and its fast and cheap.
QuoteOriginally posted by Shadowhnter:
All you have to do, is score them all the way around with a thin blade like a box knife. Once scored nicely, slide the shaft end out on something solid like a table edge to support right at the score. Then carefully break the shaft at the score line. I like to kind of work my way around the shaft as Im breaking it. Snaps off good and clean every time if you do it right, and its fast and cheap.
X2
X3
A cheap tabletop band saw works great if you have one. If not, any of the aforementioned methods will do nicely; just a little slower.
Score mine all the way around with a razor knife or sharp pocket knife. Initial score, then deeper, then snap it off. Quick and simple.
longtoke X2
Gardening snips or roll under a knife.
I have cut my last few dozen with a credit card.
tape them all together and cut them on a bandsaw or radial arm saw
I have used a pipe cutter for years. Quick and easy.
Longtoke x3. Roll on table under a knife. Easy.
I wack them off all at once while there still rubber banded together with my band saw.
As others have said, leave an extra 3/4" or so for the point taper. I cut mine by rolling them on my workbench with a knife blade. This makes a nice even groove, then just break them at the groove.
As stated above, leave enough room for the point taper. I use the Mini Cut Off saw from Harbor Freight. I believe that Big Jim has them also. Does a great job and goes quickly.
I use a fine toothed coping saw.
I find if you don't cut a good square edge the taper can be uneven.
Yep, the old pocket knife and a table. Works great on POC. Don't make woodies any harder than they have to be.
QuoteOriginally posted by kevsuperg:
Yep, the old pocket knife and a table. Works great on POC. Don't make woodies any harder than they have to be.
I've had great luck doing such with Douglas Fir too.
Good sharp knife, X a bunch.Roll carefully so as not to make the cut spiral (be sure to follow the initial cut; I like to mark the circle on the shaft on my spin tester-hand rolled style).
IF, by chance, the end isn't square, I simply touch it up with an emery file (sand it). I like to leave 1" for the point taper.
Lik many others, roll em under a razor knife on any flat surface, we've even done em on a tail gate of a truck :dunno: :dunno: