Hey guys I need to know if there are any tricks to using this burner. I have had mine about 2 years now and I have done some real nice feathers. And some real badly burns ones to lol. I have the pre cut deals for the different shapes and I bend my wire around those. But I can never seem to get the perfect burn. Especially on the back end. Seems like I always have a little to trim like I'm not getting close enough. But if I don't leave room for the wire to expand When it's hot I get to close and burn my cresting. Also I notice one side is angled down just slightly. Wasn't sure if that was for a reason? Any tips for me would be much appreciated. Thanks guys
There's supposed to be a little piece of square steel stock about two inches long that fits in one of the slots that holds the wire. Its purpose is to keep the wire from getting too hot. Can operate without it, but it helps to keep the heat even. Can probably pick something like that up at the hardware store if yours is missing.
Just need some trial and error in adjusting the burn wire to burn the feather to the quill, but not run into the cresting. I often plug and unplug my burner a half dozen or more times to adjust the wire. When it gets hot, I quickly slide an arrow into the holder and give it a quick look. If it doesn't look right, I pull it out and turn off the burner, adjust the wire and do it again. Doesn't hurt to fletch a sacrificial arrow or two to test to make sure you have everything right.
When burning, be sure the arrow nock is seated all the way in to the nock holder and that you have the shaft snug against the v groove. Turn smoothly, and just fast enough to slice off the feathers. Always keep the shaft moving -- in, out and turning -- or it will scorch the cresting and may light the feathers on fire..
I will definately say that they are temperamental. I spend quite an amount of time adjusting mine before actually turning it on. It Chet's close to the shaft so I make sure to not get it too close if I need to trim the very back end I do so. Anything to keep it off the shaft. When I go through the turning process I go very slow in one direction and sometimes the other way. Just take your time bending those wires into the right shape before giving it a go...
Crazy one thing I've done for years when burning crested wooden arrows or alum. and carbon with wraps is to take an empty aluminum pop can and cut some small strips of aluminum around 1/2" by 3/4" .wrap the aluminum around the shafts on both ends of the shafts butting right up to the feathers.a small piece of masking tape keeps the aluminum tite to the shaft .now you can rub the ribbon right up to the aluminum without burning your cresting or shafts,works great.
It's kind of a trail and error thing. It's takes a while to learn how far to set the wire from the arrow to get the burn correct. Once you have it figured out though it's a pretty quick setup. There will probably always be some minor trimming after burning though.
THANKS guys for all the replies. I'm going to try the aluminum can thing to. It seems like whenever I get a good burn it burns my cresting a tad. Not a huge deal but when I spend 2 hours cresting it looks funny. Also I did find that tool that came with it so ill use that to get the right heat as Orion stated. I always wondered what that tool was for lol. Thanks again guys
My Young burner is old. I mean real old. The wire doesn't get red hot anymore. (Even with a brand new wire)
I've looked it over with my rather insignificant electrical skills and can't figure it out... I mean there's no moving parts!!
Thought I might change the power supply cord with something heavier as the original is pretty puny.
At times it has refused to heat up at all but will respond to wiggling the cord where it enters the body of the burner... bad connection?
Please help me out guys. I'm too old to buy a new one and I don't care for die cuts.
QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Clandinin:
Crazy one thing I've done for years when burning crested wooden arrows or alum. and carbon with wraps is to take an empty aluminum pop can and cut some small strips of aluminum around 1/2" by 3/4" .wrap the aluminum around the shafts on both ends of the shafts butting right up to the feathers.a small piece of masking tape keeps the aluminum tite to the shaft .now you can rub the ribbon right up to the aluminum without burning your cresting or shafts,works great.
Do you think aluminum tape would serve the same purpose?
QuoteOriginally posted by Charlie Lamb:
My Young burner is old. I mean real old. The wire doesn't get red hot anymore. (Even with a brand new wire)
I've looked it over with my rather insignificant electrical skills and can't figure it out... I mean there's no moving parts!!
Thought I might change the power supply cord with something heavier as the original is pretty puny.
At times it has refused to heat up at all but will respond to wiggling the cord where it enters the body of the burner... bad connection?
Please help me out guys. I'm too old to buy a new one and I don't care for die cuts.
I'd bet it has something to do with the connection. I have had the same thing happen on several different electrical appliances. I'd bet the wires attach pretty simply, and you'd be able to reconnect them very easily, but i've never messed with a burner.
What's your favorite cut of feathers, Charlie?
Charlie, if that cord or connection is damaged ar partly loose it certainly would give the symptoms you have.
All the burner is, is a large transformer. As long as the wiring on the coils inside is in good shape you should be able to fix it up good,as,new.
(http://www.tradgang.com/upload/charlie/ArrowFletching.jpg)
4 3/4" x 5/8"
QuoteOriginally posted by Charlie Lamb:
(http://www.tradgang.com/upload/charlie/ArrowFletching.jpg)
4 3/4" x 5/8"
Isn't that just a parabolic cut feather?
Yep. Just a plain old parabolic cut... the shape of this cut can vary depending on several factors. This shape is one I've tweeked over the years to give good steering qualities and silent flight.
Cut and reconnected the power source wire to the transformer with no real change. It gets warm but not feather cutting hot.
Tomorrow I'll disconnect the wires that run from the transformer to the burning wire and see what happens.
I figure sooner or later someone else will have the same problem and if I can figure this out we'll all be in better shape.
Man Charlie, that is real similar to what I use! The curve on the back of mine is a little flatter is about it!!
As for the electrical part???? I'm no electrical guy...
I like that burn good job
Like you said Charley, there are no moving parts. You created some by wiggling the power cord. Either there is a break in the cord somewhere that is acting like a switch when you move it, or wiggling the cord moves some other connection inside. The break in the cord would not have to be where you expect it, right up by the machine, it could be anywhere from the connection to the plug to the connection to the machine. If you had an ohm meter or circuit tester, you could disconnect the cord, twist the wires together and then clip your circuit tester/ohm meter to the prongs of the plug. You should read a dead short. if the condition changes when you twist/bend the cord along it's length, you have a bad cord. If it doesn't change when you manipulate the cord, the break is internal to the machine. At least you've cut the possibilities in half.
Help appreciated. :thumbsup:
I took it apart again tonight. This time I disconnected the bolts that connect to the burner wire. I found no weakness in the wire or connection. What I did find was oxidation on the surfaces of the nuts and washers in that connection.
A little work with some emory cloth and I put it back together nice and tight. BINGO!! Turned it on and almost had to back away from the wire. LOL
Cherry red.
Tip for burner users... When you use your burner for the first time or use a new wire for the first time, hook it up before you shape it and turn it on. If your wire is preshaped the heat will change that shape. Let it burn for 30 seconds or so. Then turn it off and let it cool. Now you can shape your wire and it will hold it's shape.
:clapper:
Glad you got it going again Charlie.
Dang, thank you Charlie!
If you hadn't cleaned your connections I woulda bought you a new one! I know, they ain't nothin' compared to the good ol' ones...
I bet mine is older than Charlie's. It was given to me about 20 years ago by a gentleman who was 75 at the time and it had been HIS DADS. He shot bows back in the 30s and 40s, don't know when they started selling them.He also gave me several Roy Case broadheads and the old field points that you did not taper the shaft. I find the setup to be the important thing. I glue the feathers on the shaft so they match up very good to the burner ribbon and I make sure the ends of the ribbon pattern take a hard turn back away from the shaft. Try not to have the ribbon too close to the arrow. I usually then have to cut off any leftovers with my Xacto, pushing straight down into the quill until it "pops" off. One more thing. Turn the shaft so the feather is coming up from the bottom. The excess feather falls safely away. I turned it from the top once.The excess feather caught fire, fell onto my good fletch and set it on fire. Had to refletch that one LOL