Sorry if I'm not in the right forum but I'm still getting acquainted. Just getting into archery and loving it but I am struggling with some setup options.
Little background- I bought a Ben Pearson Deerslayer 7300 off Craigslist.
HN-709
58"
45xx-28"
Any info on this bow would be great particularly year and recommended brace height. I have a 31-32" draw and on a scale it pulls about 62#.
As I'm just learning I was just looking for inexpensive arrows, the guy at my local archery shop who is very knowledgeable recommended some xx75 gamegetters 2117 400 that he had in stock. I would like some more recommendations for arrows, this is just for target shooting I don't hunt, and I tend to lose or destroy arrows since I'm only a couple weeks into this. Thanks for all the advice guys and if I'm in the wrong section please let me know.
Welcome to tradgang!
You are in the right forum. I'll let someone more knowlegable answer your question. Lots of goog people here.
Welcome to traditional archery and to Tradgang!
I don't know how to say this tactfully, but the way you are equipped seems totally inappropriate for a beginning archer. If you are measuring a 62# draw weight on a 45# bow, it is because you are overdrawing the bow into the range we call "stacking." A 58" bow is way to short for someone who draws 31-32". 62# (or even 45#) is way too high of a weight to learn on. If I were you, I would get a bow that draws about 40# at your draw length, which would be a 64" or longer bow, to learn on, and then go on from there.
I was kind of thinking that but I'm trying to do this on a budget and that is what I found on local Craigslist. I am watching for something else
If I were you, I would look around in swap meets, etc., until I found a 64" or longer bow that was rated at 30# at 28". This would equate to about 40# at 32". If you don't quite have a 32" draw length, and the weight of the bow comes out to be 35-40# at your actual draw length, that's fine too. You should be able to find something like that in reasonably good shape for around $50. Get the weakest spine arrows you can find that come in 32" uncut lengths. Would this be a 1916? Maybe somebody can help me out on this one.
Welcome to trad gang. This is an awesome site. If it was me id save and buy a samick sage for 140 bucks. That way like Mcdave says you can get your weight to where you want to be. 62# is a lot for a beginner. You might develop bad habits and bad habits are tough to break. Good Luck
Hey several years ago I was in the same place as you! Welcome to traditional archery. Here are a couple of my experiences.
1. I transitioned over from a compound. I did not remeasure my draw length on a recurve and I assumed it was the same. I was very wrong. My 31 inch draw on my compound with a release was 28.5 with a finger tab and a recurve.
2. I started with a 55lb recurve, because I was coming off a 70lb compound. I shot terribly and inconsistently.
3. When a buddy let me borrow his son's old 38lb-40lb bow for a practice session the difference was immediate. form kind of fell into line. With a little more guidance I was up and running.
4. It took about 2 years to get to where i can comfortably and accurately shoot 50 lb trad bows all day. I still struggle at 55+.
5. Short range blank bale target practice is great for developing form. Video yourself for a series of shots and watch the video. look for inconsistencies. Shoot (safely) at your bail with eyes closed. It helps a lot.
6. Don't over think stuff. Just have fun. A lot of people get really technical as they advance. Keep in mind that these guys have been doing it for a very long time and have the basics down. only then they start picking apart and really fin tuning everything. What you really need starting out is a bow that fits you well (See aforementioned recommendations) and properly spined arrows and lots of practice.
Good luck and have fun!
Msturm
Got to ask, How tall are you??
As Dave says, you are probably well into an area called stacking which makes you work harder for less results in performance. But don't worry about that right now. But I will say, that regardless of your financial position, You need a longer and lighter draw weight bow!!
Arne
Welcome can't add much to what's been said other than maybe get on the classifieds here to find your next bow , dealing with a bunch of great folks with no agenda other than a love of Archery good luck.
please do ur self a big favor and make sure ur draw is really that long...put a clothes pin on ur arrow a few inches from the end then draw it till it hits the riser let down and measure from the bottom of the nock to the back of the point that will tell u what u really draw...then post it so the gang can help u out
The guy at the archery shop tested it. I'm 6'2" with long arms, it's hard to buy shirts that fit right. Thanks guys for all the advice, now if I could learn to keep my arrows
I am 6'3" with long arms and also find it hard to find sleeves long enough. FWIW, I have a 29.5 draw length. That is why I asked.
I suspect, without seeing, that you may be over drawing quite a bit if you are really drawing 31 to 32".
These are just suggestions as we can't see your shot process, but experience indicates some problems you are dealing with that could possibly be avoided.
Arne
QuoteOriginally posted by McDave:
If I were you, I would look around in swap meets, etc., until I found a 64" or longer bow that was rated at 30# at 28". This would equate to about 40# at 32". If you don't quite have a 32" draw length, and the weight of the bow comes out to be 35-40# at your actual draw length, that's fine too. You should be able to find something like that in reasonably good shape for around $50. Get the weakest spine arrows you can find that come in 32" uncut lengths. Would this be a 1916? Maybe somebody can help me out on this one.
This pretty much says it all. Go to a bow shop, or get with a local experienced trad shooter and get your actual draw length on a trad bow measured.
Oh, and welcome to the addiction, and to TradGang!!!!
Bisch
x2 on a Samick Sage or any cheap, modular-style bow (Ragim, PSE, etc.). Get something ridiculously light (20-25#) and work on your form. Move up 10-15# at a time. On my hunting rig, I'm only pulling about 47# but I learn more about my form on my 35# selfbow and my wife's 20# recurve.
In my late teens, I bought a 53# Browning recurve for about $100 at the only traditional archery shop there was in Sacramento at the time. My compound was about 67# so I figured I could do 50#. I gave up in utter frustration and sold it many years later after it collected dust for too long. I thought I was saving money by going after a deal. In fact, I was just wasting it on something that I couldn't use. You've got to crawl before you can walk. I didn't have internet forums for advice back then. Take the advice given here. I wish I would have had it back then.
thanks for all the advice guys. i found a samick sage on craigslist locally and the guy is willing to take $75. Its a 35# draw. i may jump on it. i have no problem drawing and holding my bow but i see what you are saying about the lighter bows and helping with my learning curve. now if i could just stop losing arrows i would be fine
Im also fairly newish... Ive learned a lot from guys like Dino, McDave, Arne, and Captain Kirk... This site will be your best friend!! I started off 3 years ago w a 60# PSE Mustang only because i shot 70# compound so i was certain id be fine.... Wrong! i became very frustrated due to inconsistency and I quit the sport.. fast forward Mid 2016, i picked it back up and creeped on this website and decided to do it the right way this time. I purchased 40# samick sage and started focusing on form and slowly began stacking arrows and began enjoying the sport. After my form was solid, i began advancing my abilities by asking questions on here and picking these guys brains... Ive learned how to tune, fletch, shoot different styles, and become consistent with my weapon. I then graduated myself to nicer bows w/ higher poundage. It is all about consistency and patience... start slow and light and fall in love with it! good luck and welcome to the gang! Everyone one here is nice and loves to help people that are willing to learn!
Since your new here you may not know it but you got some good advice from some very fine archers.
Have fun.
***** always has good starter bows for sale. Id get something at least 60 inches or 64 would be better. No more than 40 pounds. 35 would be better. A good 3 pc like the sage bow (or Journey) will allow you to change to heavier limbs later on.
The Sage will be a much better starting point. Since you are just getting started, I highly recommend beginning your training with "blank bale" shooting...beginning at about 5 (yes, five) yards. I've found 3 stacked straw bales to be an excellent backstop. Don't concern yourself with aiming at this point; pick a spot in the center of the bales (or a good LARGE commercial backstop) and let fly. You should not lose any arrows this way and it begins to calibrate your eye/hand coordination. You will sooner or later have to choose a sighting system; either instinctive, gapping, or sight pins but this will get you going. When you begin busting the nocks off arrows you can step back a few yards and continue on.
Feel free to PM me with any questions.
The Samick Sage is a good bow to start with and it has the advantage of just needing new limbs when you want to move up.
Just gonna throw this out there - My draw measures 31" as well. I have a 64" Great Tree Highlander, which is similar to the Sage but 2" longer. Its a budget take down bow but has a sweet zebrawood riser. The 35# at 28 inch limbs draw in the low 40# range for me. I use that to work on form and for target shooting. For hunting I have limbs that are marked at 40# but draw high 40s for me.
Either way a longer takedon recurve is a nicw way for you to start...and advance.
Have you MEASURED your draw on a good trad bow? My DL went from a solid 31" (compound; with release) to 29-29.5 on a recurve simply due to choosing a different (better) anchor point. As was mentioned earlier it's best to check it again (preferably with the bow you intend to shoot!)and you might be surprised. Before you even get to that stage, you shoot watch a few vids on YouTube on drawing and form to get an idea if you are drawing and holding using good form. Arne (Moebow) and Jeff Kavanagh have some excellent videos as well as others. You will also have to decide whether to shoot split or 3-under as well.
I don't know, but...is the Sage(62"), still long enough for his long of draw(32")? You have some great advice above.
Welcome to the "Gang"!
Enjoy the process Nick. Plenty of real good advice from good people above. Practice often and practice correctly.
I agree with Car54. I think 62" is way too short for a guy 6'3".
Deno
QuoteOriginally posted by Deno:
I agree with Car54. I think 62" is way too short for a guy 6'3".
Deno [/QB]
In general, yes. But it also depends on his "wingspan"
You can fit a Sage with Journey limbs...a bit longer at 64" and they go all the way down to 30#
"I'm 6'2" with long arms, it's hard to buy shirts that fit right"
Capt. Kirk
You're correct. I only went by what he said. Wingspan is an important measurement. That will
tell him alot.
Deno
A Samick Journey is the longer version of the Sage (Journey is 64*, Sage is 62". They have the same riser). The Journey is discontinued ( too bad, great bow, I have one). Better than the Sage for 30"+ draws. You might be able to find Journey limbs. Twig Archery had some leftovers. Great value bow.
35# limbs are great limbs to get. I have a set, and use them regularly on my Journey. I draw near 30", no issues with stacking with the 64" Samick Journey
Good luck.
That's why I'm saying 64 inch bow. Great Tree Highlander. Andover Archery.
Buy the video "Masters of the Barebow, Volume III". It can literally take years off the learning curve, and maybe give you a better idea of what to look for in your next bow. If you get the Sage, I'd fit it with Journey limbs.
QuoteOriginally posted by riser:
A Samick Journey is the longer version of the Sage (Journey is 64*, Sage is 62". They have the same riser). The Journey is discontinued ( too bad, great bow, I have one). Better than the Sage for 30"+ draws. You might be able to find Journey limbs. Twig Archery had some leftovers. Great value bow.
35# limbs are great limbs to get. I have a set, and use them regularly on my Journey. I draw near 30", no issues with stacking with the 64" Samick Journey
Good luck.
Just checked 3Rivers...they only have the Journey and Journey spare limbs left in 60# DW. You may have to do some searching but I'm sure they are still out there.
Check out Southwest Archery. They are making replacement risers and limbs for Samick Sage and Journey set ups.
They call their Journey equivalent model "Spyder xL". Sage equivalent is "Spyder".
Limbs are about $75. ( Go to "home" then "replacement parts".)
southwest archery Spyder XL (https://www.southwestarcheryusa.com/collections/recurve-bows/products/spyder-xl-64-inch-takedown-recurve-bow)
Good info to know, riser. Thanks.
Double post, edit came out wrong. Please delete
Just picked a samick sage 62-35 off a friend for $50. Can't wait to shoot it. What spine arrows should I go with. And my wingspan is 77" fingertip to fingertip
I think aluminum 1916 arrows left uncut full length at 32" would be a good place to start. Try both 100 grain and 125 grain points, and see which seems to fly best (least amount of wobble). These arrows are relatively inexpensive. As others have stated, your draw length is likely to change as you gain more experience, which will affect your choice of arrows in the future, so probably a half dozen to get started would be enough.
If you feel the 62" bow draws smoothly all the way to full draw, fine. If you feel it gets unusually hard to draw toward the end of your draw, you might want to look for some of the 64" limbs that will fit the Samick Sage riser that were mentioned in other posts.
McDave - What do you think about 2016s? If his draw is 32" or close, and his draw weight is going to be low 40s, I worry that 1916 might come up weak. With a 2016 he can always go to a higher point weight (125 grain, 150 grain)
I think you could be right on the 2016's. Several people have expressed doubt that his true draw length is really 32", but if it is, then 2016's might be a better choice.
Welcome!!!