Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Buckeye1977 on February 15, 2017, 11:41:00 AM
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I've been bare shaft tuning my new to me kwyk styk it's 47#@28. My draw is about 26.5. Brace height is set at 7 3/4. Started with some gold tip trad 500' s and they were showing weak all the way down to 28" with a 125 grain point and standard insert. Didn't want to cut them any shorter so I grabbed a gold tip hunter 5575 shaft from my compound and stripped the vanes off and started with a 175 grain point at 28". It was showing to be slightly stiff so bumped up point to a 200 and got decent flight but arrow seemed to be impacting about 4" to the right most of the time and a couple inches high. The bow seems to be very quick but I wouldn't have thought with this low poundage I would be getting good flight out of a 400 spine arrow. Was just wondering if anyone else has had the same experience and if I might be doing something wrong. Appreciate any help you can give me
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I have two 47# recurves and two 45# take down r/d longbows that I use a GT Trad 500 arrow cut to 29" with a 175 grain point. My draw length is just shy of 28" (maybe 27 3/4"). Of the 4 bows, two bare shaft dead on, one slightly weak, one slightly stiff, but close enough that I don't want to tune a different arrow for them. All the bows are cut maybe 3/16" past center, with Martin rug strike plates that are about 1/16" thick.
With your draw length of 26.5", I would expect you to show stiff with your setup, so your results do surprise me.
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Something sounds screwbally??? A .400 with 200gr up front should still be stiff. Have you checked the draw weight on a bow scale to make sure what is written on the bow is accurate?
Bisch
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No but the bow just came from jack and had weight reduced from 53 to 47# and he marked the bow himself. Not sure but seemed very odd to me too.
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My 47# predator shoots a 390 ACC with 200 up front perfectly. But with my 50# bob lee they are to stiff. I know Alot of guys use a 500 Around that weight but to me they bare shaft to weak.
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agree - you missed something with the 500's, they will work
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The 500's were so weak that they were hitting the target sideways most of the time. When I first shot it surprised the heck out of me when the arrow bounced off the target sideways! I'm gonna mess with brace height and shoot some more tonight and see if I can figure out what's going on. The bow pulls lighter than my 50# longbow so believe the poundage to be right but don't have any way to measure it.
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Shoot the shafts you shoot with the PL in your signature - should be close
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Those are the ones I was bare shafting with and they're not even close. Got me puzzled
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Have you tried 250 and 300 grain field pts. to check to see if their not bouncing off the side plate(false read)...
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goes to the show the fun of tuning i cant get my bob lee 54 at 28 which is my draw length to even shoot a 400 spine arrow with weight up front, the most i can get out of 29 inch arrow is 150 grains up front it was very weird to me, went to a 340 spine a 30 inch arrow like a 250 grain head and flys good, let us know how it goes buddy
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Originally posted by Car54:
Have you tried 250 and 300 grain field pts. to check to see if their not bouncing off the side plate(false read)...
No I didn't but tried a 100 grain point and was a little better but to shoot my 175 grain heads I'd have to cut them too short. Was shooting some more tonight and played with brace hgt a little but didn't make a great deal of difference. The 400's flew pretty straight at 20 yards with 200 to 250 grains up front on a 28" arrow. :dunno:
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I recently had some tuning issues that yielded false weak readings. The tell tale sign was on my bareshafts yellow arrow wraps had black streaks on them from my calf hair side plate. Hitting target nock left sideways. Those were 500 ,went with shorter 600 and installed black widow thick,soft rest and side plate and now I am tuned.
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I had a Centaur a few years back that I could not get an arrow to fly proper out of no matter what. I changed the new string out with another new string made from a different material...bingo. I know it sounds goofy. But if all else fails try it. It was the case with me. Never had it happen again with other Centaurs but that string material and me just didn't gell. rat'
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I had similar weak spine results due to velcro side plate wearing, so I built it up and cured the problem. I sometimes forget to hold bow vertical with no cant when bareshafting and this messes up the results. Fletching the arrow stiffens the spine a little due to the parachute effect.
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The 400 spine arrow was flying decent with a 200 grain point and would probably fly great if the shaft was a little longer but I didn't have any longer in length. When I put a 250 grain point on it was showing just a tad weak. Hate to buy brand new shafts if I'm doing something wrong but the 500's are flying so weak that they hit the target sideways. The 400 seems to just need a little tweaking to get it right on the money. When I shoot the 500's that are fletched and wrapped at 29" with 175 grain point they porpoise a little but hit right where I'm looking
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There's just no way a 500 should be hitting the target sideways. Showing a little weak? OK, I could believe that - every bow is different. But that far off, I have to think there is something else at play here.
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Originally posted by Bladepeek:
There's just no way a 500 should be hitting the target sideways. Showing a little weak? OK, I could believe that - every bow is different. But that far off, I have to think there is something else at play here.
My thoughts also just not sure what it could be at this point. I had no trouble bare shafting the longbow in my signature and that was my first time trying it. I'm stumped
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Get yourself an Easton XX75 1916 and cut that dude down to 27.5" and throw a .145 head on it. Maybe a .175 head. I will say this as well..my son shoots a 45#curve and he has crazy good flight with a 1535 GoldTip carbon arrow with .145 up front and a 29"arrow. He draws 28". rat'
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The fact that you are getting such terrible flight from something that shouldn't be that far off, and that you seem to also be hitting high makes me think you may be bouncing off the shelf and sideplate. You may need:
1. more brace height
2. higher nock point
both are cheap things to try. Just do one at a time and see if there is improvement.
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Thanks guys I'm gonna continue to play around with it and see what I can figure out.
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Put some baby powder or spray some foot power on the shelf and side of the shelf window and look for fletching contact someplace. Arrow nocks fit ok?
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Yeh they fit about the same as my other bows. Might try the powder this weekend didn't even think of it thanks
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I've learned to let the bow tell me what it wants. It knows better than any one else weighing in. I thought 500 would work for a buddy's 50 pound Martin, but we didn't get tuned until we got to 340! How your bow is cut to center has much to do with what arrows it will need. Form is also key. Poundage is only one factor. I think you're on the right track.
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Just wanted to give an update on my tuning. Not sure what I was doing wrong but I've settled into my gt 500's at 28.5" with a 2" foot and 175 grn point. Got it flying straight at 20 yards but still showing nock high. Have played with nock point and doesn't seem to change. My question is do you usually have some nock high with a heavy point end or is there something else I can try to get it better? Oh and THANKS to everyone so far for all your suggestions and advice!
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Persistent nock high is usually a result of form errors, but in some (rare) cases can result from shooting a bow 3 under that is tillered for split fingers. In either case, what is happening is that there is a true nock high when the nock is mounted high enough, which is why we recommend starting tuning at 3/4 or even 1". Then at some point the arrow starts rebounding off the shelf, which results in a false nock high.
You need to work your nock point down the string in very small increments, maybe 1/8" at a time. Start high enough that you see a reduction in the nock high as you work your way down the string. At some point, moving the nock point down does not result in any further reduction in nock high, and may even increase the nock high as you lower your nock point further. The point where lowering the nock point does not reduce the nock high is where you want to put your nock point, until you figure out how to eliminate the false nock high.
You can shoot accurately with a true nock high, which can be reliably corrected with fletching, but not with false nock high, which will result in inconsistent arrow flight.
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Try another nocking point below nock of arrow and see if that fixes it, leave like 1/8" gap
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Originally posted by McDave:
Persistent nock high is usually a result of form errors, but in some (rare) cases can result from shooting a bow 3 under that is tillered for split fingers. In either case, what is happening is that there is a true nock high when the nock is mounted high enough, which is why we recommend starting tuning at 3/4 or even 1". Then at some point the arrow starts rebounding off the shelf, which results in a false nock high.
You need to work your nock point down the string in very small increments, maybe 1/8" at a time. Start high enough that you see a reduction in the nock high as you work your way down the string. At some point, moving the nock point down does not result in any further reduction in nock high, and may even increase the nock high as you lower your nock point further. The point where lowering the nock point does not reduce the nock high is where you want to put your nock point, until you figure out how to eliminate the false nock high.
You can shoot accurately with a true nock high, which can be reliably corrected with fletching, but not with false nock high, which will result in inconsistent arrow flight.
When I was messing with nock point I lowered it about 1/8" or so and it did seem to get worse so will play with it some more. Can you tell me what kinda form problem could possibly cause the nock high?
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Do you shoot split fingers or 3 under?
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On second thought, my previous question might be putting the cart before the horse. Your previous posts have indicated that you have not developed consistent form. You can't really tune arrows until you have developed consistent form. Of course, the purpose of developing consistent form is not so we can tune arrows, but so we can consistently hit what we are shooting at. So maybe the best advice I can give you is to find a Rod Jenkins course in your area to attend, or alternatively, to make a video and post it on the Shooting Form Forum for Arne to look at, I really think this persistent nock high problem will go away once you have good form, and working on your form in general will do you more good than me mentioning one or two things that typically result in false nock high.
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Try baby powder (or some other chalky substance) on your shelf to check if your arrow is impacting the riser as it leaves the bow. Just a thought. Also, I will echo what McDave said. If you're grouping your arrows (bare shaft) consistently, then your results are reliable. By consistently, I mean not only are your arrows grouping together but each end you shoot, the arrows are consistently high right or whatever.
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Thanks guys. I shot some more tonight and was paying a lot more attention to my form and release and the nock high problem did seem to get better. I'm not a very patient person when it comes to this sort of thing so seems to me I just need to slow down and pay attention to every aspect of my shooting while trying to tune. My spine seems to be very close and is very consistent so with some more practice I think I'll be right where I need to be.