OK guys, new guy just starting out. Long time bowhunter that is looking for a new challenge and have been ready to get into the traditional game. After looking at all the carnage pics of the Simmons heads, I'm just so impressed I have to shoot them. Will be 99% deer but the occasional bear. My question is should I order the 165gr glue ins or the 190gr screw ins? I know the screw in heads sit back an inch or little more over the shaft and am fine with that. Is one stronger than the other? Also are the aluminum adapters OK or would u get the steel adapters?
Thanks for any info.
Roy
What arrows are you shooting? Wood or carbon/aluminum?
I have spoke with Dave Oligee (the owner) about this matter. His reply is that the screw in ones are "WWWWAAAAAAAYYYYYY stronger."
But, Chris Spikes, who has killed as many animals with them as probably anyone uses both freely and determines that by if he can give up the shaft length or not.
Buckeye... I'm shooting 400 spine gold tip blems from big Jim. 60" R/D longbow 58# at 27" draw.
I've used the glue on's with adpaters, thinking I was going to try different weight adapters. I never did, and just wished I would have gotten the screw-in's.
They have a new 175gr screw-in Tiger Shark that you might like.
QuoteOriginally posted by highlow:
They have a new 175gr screw-in Tiger Shark that you might like.
X 2
https://imgur.com/a/8dxhM
I prefer the 175 grain Tigersharks over the Treesharks for whitetails. For Turkey I prefer the Treesharks. Your on the right path though. Simmons makes the best Broadheads IMO. Once you get them sharpened via whatever method you choose, to touch them up after shooting only takes a few minutes to regain to a razors edge again after you established your initial 25° edge. They are about a tough of a broadhead as you will ever get ahold of. Good luck
I would go with the screw in inserts as well. Both will hold up just fine but there is a slight strength advantage in the screw in inserts over glue up but nothing that you would ever notice. If I remember correctly Dave told me it had something to do with the material tensile strength that was used when constructing the heads but it was minimal. I too can attest to the devastating wounds as they are an awesome design and create massive wound channels.
Sharpening won't be an issue. I'm a precision grinder by trade and all my tooling is diamond. 180 grit down to 2000 grit polish. They will be razor sharp.
I'd go with the screw ins
I went with the glue on ones.... my thinking was:
1. I didn't have to worry about the loss of arrow length due to the overlapping of the back of the broadhead.
2. I liked the idea of the back of the vent attached to the ferrule, thus in my mind 'stronger' than the back of the broadhead hanging out over the arrow.
This all being said, I do have the the 175 Tigersharks that I use as well.... I just wanted some carnage with the BIG heads!
I really don't think that you can go wrong with either, but I was wanting the bigger, 'stronger' Treesharks for bear last year.
Good luck, shoot straight and God Bless,
Rodd
Goingoldskool did u get a bear? How did the treeshark preform?
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g61/Chris_Blaskowski/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_3976_1_zpsp26fjmlr.jpg) (http://s53.photobucket.com/user/Chris_Blaskowski/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_3976_1_zpsp26fjmlr.jpg.html)
I like the screw on just fine! Shot at least 4 deer with this head last year. Course i like the glue on too?!
how would you all suggest sharpening these heads? I have been thinking about trying some myself.
I use a Lansky sharpening system base with a diamond three sided KME Jewelstick. Absolutely lethal sharp. I've also used the curved stones that Lansky sells but after time the stones wear out and it does change the angle so I switched to the KME for my Lansky and it works great.
Utilizing the Tree Shark screw-in backed with a 100 gn insert for both deer and turkeys.
Have a long list of other options and experience with numerous other setups at my disposal. The current setup's actual lethality results consistantly solidify my own personal confidence.
QuoteOriginally posted by Longtoke:
how would you all suggest sharpening these heads? I have been thinking about trying some myself.
I had HECK learning how to sharpen them in a way that was efficient and repeatable. I will share my way in the next couple days(try to make a video and post it). This isn't "my way", as like most great things, it was passed down from someone else to me(PDK25).
looking forward to it Daniel.
Roy, I am confused. Are you planning on gluing the broadhead directly to the shaft with out an insert, or are you glueing it to an insert?
i sharpen mine on a wet rock with great sucsess
Maineac...
If I shoot the 165's they would be either glued to the aluminum or steel broadhead adapter then screwed into a standard Gold tip aluminum insert. 190's just screwed in.
Roy
I sent you a pm
QuoteOriginally posted by Roy Schmidt:
Goingoldskool did u get a bear? How did the treeshark preform?
I did NOT get a bear.... part of hunting!
I use the the Chris Spikes method of sharpening... you can find it on youtube... ace broadhead holder and a 3 sided jewel stik.
Yea, I'm thinking about switching as well and had sharpening questions. Can't wait to see how you do it Daniel. I remember you used a Rada sharpener for some of it.
I'm going to use the 165 glue on tree shark with steel adapter next year but have not killed anything with them yet. I have been shooting them at targets a lot and also torture tested them by shooting though things to test durability and penetration. Sometimes they went through targets into the ground and sometimes I miss and hit the ground. So they have been dulled! But it's easy to sharpen them... I have been sharpening broadheads for a while with a 1"x30" belt sander from Harbor Freight and a series of sharpening belts. The final belt is leather with stropping compound. It takes just a little finesse to cover the contour but it's learned on the first try. You can put marker on the edge to keep the factory bevel. In minutes you have a mirror edge that will pop hair. Touch up later only needs the leather belt.
I'm really looking forward to using them for deer. They quickly do a lot of damage to targets.
Tedd
I do all my sharpening with a set of sharpening wheels on my grinder. Simple and easy once you get the touch.
Chris. That is one unbelievable entry hole. How far did it go? I'm guessing not far.
Got it. I just didn't understand the overhang you were talking about. I ave set that have yet to meet flesh I glued on 100 grain adapters. Have some on some surewood shafts as well. Someday I'll get to see what they can do.
QuoteOriginally posted by Crittergetter:
I sent you a pm
You scared to reply publically, Randy? :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
posted the "how to"
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=153321
Awesome bud I appreciate the video. I got the Rada and the paper wheel sharpening system. Ordered 3 centaur big game heads as well as 3 treesharks. Gonna try em both.
Roy
Highlow, you would be surprised. That doe actually went 220 yards! angled back and only got one lung. not exactly hard to follow though,...
One devasting wound channel.
In my experience the glue-on's are the way to go. When I shot game with the screw-in's the rear portion that overhangs the arrow shaft would pick up a slight bend, even on rib hits that were a pass through. The only downside to the Glue-on's was it took some time to get them glued on to an adapter straight. The Centaur's have way better tolerances. No problems getting them to spin straight. Keep in mind all of the simmons I had were purchased before Dave took over the business.