Anyone ever try using the Work Sharp knife sharpener for single bevel broadheads? Any opinions on the unit in general would be appreciated as well.
I love my work sharp. Just upgraded to the bigger Ken Onion addition With the attachment for oper grinding/sharing. This is the best knife sharpener I have ever used. YMMV
It didn't work for me. The broad heads ferrule gets in the way with the angle guide.
Got my Dad one for Christmas, worked great on knifes, didn't have any broadheads handy at Christmas.
Pc of S...
Get the $39 1x30 belt sander from harbor frt. order belts and leather strop belt online.
I've got the Work Sharp Ken Onion model and I bought the Blade Sharpening Attachment as well. I don't use any angle guides and I freehand with all the sharpening. The small flexible belts are outstanding at achieving a wicked finish on my SB Abowyers. Not a cheap setup by any means but doesn't require a work bench or 6" heavy grinder and is portable anywhere you have 110 AC. Worth the cost if you have a bit of extra money.
I love mine for everyday knives and scissors. And I've sharpened some practice broadheads but I just couldn't get it sharp enough for hunting. I only ever sharpen a few broadheads for the hunting season and still prefer more conventional methods.
Take the guard off and freehand it , raise a burr on the other side knock the burr off , hair popping sharp 20 second per broadhead
I started using it this year.. results are awesome! Concave , single bevel , double bevel , worked on all of them in half the time.. I've tried everything.. the work sharps got my vote hands down
Kevin, Steve: How do you use it on a single bevel? Abowyers, for example, have concave edges to start. The Work Sharp would change that to convex. Or, do you free hand it at the base of one of the wheels?
220 grit belt 4-6 strokes or till you get a burr then remove the burr with a steel or leather strop. I like the leather strop
QuoteOriginally posted by Orion:
Kevin, Steve: How do you use it on a single bevel? Abowyers, for example, have concave edges to start. The Work Sharp would change that to convex. Or, do you free hand it at the base of one of the wheels?
I just ignore the original grind and apply the blade to the belt, usually in the 'top' third of the belt area where I get less belt deflection under pressure. I maintain the original bevel angle. When nearly completed I usually flip the blade and very, very lightly drag the non-beveled side across the finer belt to get that burr trued up. A final stropping and I get a mostly polished edge capable of shaving my face. I've done it.
Thanks. I may have to invest inane of those machines.
Kevin dill has it down, with a little practice you can get scary results. Sorry for the late response. I thought my wife figured out how to get on the site and make POW WOW disappear..