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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: Tedd on January 20, 2017, 07:02:00 PM
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I am pretty happy with Rustoleum enamel for cap spray on carbons. I can crest with acrylic or almost anything.
I have never been happy with anything I tried for white cap dip/spray on wood shafts. What is the best way to have a bright white cap wood shafts?
I have 2 doz new cedars on the way and the makings for gasket lacquer.
Can I gasket lacquer under and over the rustoleum enamel? Without it yellowing or pulling off the paint?
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Oil base poly will turn white a yellow. I would always use water base poly. I hope it helps.
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Rustoleum rattle can and wipe on poly works fine in Kentucky. I've not noticed any yellowing.
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I think the lacquer will tear up anything you put it over.
I would put all of the lacquer on, spray on your white crown/crest and dip just that portion in water based poly to protect it.
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I used the Rustolem white on wood shafts. To get a bright shiny finish I used MinWax Polycrillic over it after I crested with Testors.
BUT the best and brightest I ever got was from two dips of white Bohning Laq. Unfortunately that product is more expensive than rattle cans. Besides a lot of guys can not handle the paints oder.
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20-30 years ago all I used to dip cedars in was bohning fletch-lac, and it worked great. A short foray into gasket lacquer showed me it was neither as tough as real lacquer nor the look I sought. I drifted away from making pretty arrows for a number of years. When I started back in I was doing much more shooting with carbons and even aluminums. I just find no satisfaction with arrow wraps! I tried a number of the new products on the market-enamels, waterbased dips,etc. I found those finishes were not as bright nor as bomb proof as I remembered Fletch lac had been(and a few old cedars left around from the old days proved it. So I decided to endure the toxic odor again and went to Fletch lac. Ya know what? It's still bright and bomb proof, and I'm going to keep using it. Works fine on carbon...not over other finishes, but I've capped and crested over it with other finishes and they also turned out fine. But, if I've got the stink from dipping, why not use real fletch lac cresting paint and be done with it?
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Made way too many wood arrows using the Bohning white Fletch Lac and it not only looks great but lasts as long as the arrow does.
I use spray paint for carbons but not on woods....just a personal choice.
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Thanks for the help. I think I'm going bite the bullet and invest in the Boning Fletchlac. Clear dip, cap colors and cresting paints. I'm not good enough to get the results others do with acrylics. The only cons I can find is that people complain about the odor and it is probably messy.
For those that use fletchlac for dip and crest...there is no need to go over top of cap and crest with a final dip of clear?
Thanks
Tedd
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I know it is recommended that a clear scuff coat be put on over whatever color you dip but I'm not convinced it's needed.
As a matter of fact I've never done it. I prefer just dipping the color, cresting and leaving it at that.
I've been very happy doing it that way for many years now. I don't see a problem with fading or "scuffing" of the paint.
Using all Bohning products means that the cap will stay without chipping or cracking, fletching will be on as tight as a drumhead and nocks don't pop off.
I use aluminum shafting a lot. Even if I don't put a color cap dip on I dip in Bohning Super coat. Never lose a fletch that way.
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Thanks Charlie. Ordering now. You are using fletchtight platinum for the glue?
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Yep!