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Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: bunyan on January 06, 2017, 10:29:00 AM
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I've had a three piece takedown PSE sable for about 15 years now and have probably taken it down five times if that. So I've never really thought much about the limb bolts until I just recently took it apart. Do you guys lube them at all or just use them dry? If you do lube them what do you use? String wax? WD-40? Something else? Thanks!
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Yes, I rub the threads with string wax (not a lot) and work it in with my fingers. Then run it into the bow threads and just wipe off any excess wax. I like it much better this way.
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I never have. I do, however, take my bow apart and dry it thoroughly if it has gotten wet in rain.
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I leave mine dry, assuming that the friction of the dry metal will hold the connection together better than a lubricated connection would. If I were in a wet climate and had rust problems, I might feel differently about it. I had an experience recently with a lug nut on my trailer where it didn't seem to be going on very well so I gave it a shot of WD-40. When I tightened it with my torque wrench, it kept turning on past the point where the other lug nuts were fully tightened, and I thought $hit, it's stripped. But about a quarter turn later, the torque wrench finally clicked, which means, I guess, that the WD-40 caused it to engage further than the other dry lug nuts. I'm not sure if this is good or bad, but I suspect the dry lug nuts (and limb bolts) give a more secure fit.
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I use a small amount of silicone oil I swiped from my son years ago. It is for lubing linkage in cars. I put a small amount on bolt threads and use my fingers to work it in. To much lube can draw dirt which might cause issues. As for WD-40, a great product but not for longevity IMO in wet climates.
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i put string wax on mine
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Howard Hill Archery recommends and uses a light coat of toilet bowl wax on their take down mechanism. No reason it would not work on limb bolts as well. :campfire:
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Beeswax, like Granpa taught us. Works on all types of screws and bolts
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McDave I was a diesel tech for 43 years> If I had a dollar for ever bolt or nut I have touched I would be a rich man. I can tell you this about a lubed bolt is much better than a dry one. Your torque reading will be more accurate. Torquing is streching the bolt witch keeps it tight. Lube should make no difference in how tight the bolt stays. If it gets loose it was not torqued in first place or is failing.About a HALF A HEX PAST BOTTOMED OUT IS ALL YOU NEED ON YOU LIMB BOLTS. when bow is strung will keep pressure also.
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Double post. :(
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String wax, beeswax, toilet bowl wax, all are good. Some on the limb beads and on the limb bolts are recommended by some bow manufacturers. I normally use string wax on the bolts and either cut thin leather or gasket material to put between the limbs and limb beds.
Putting the leather or gasket material between the limb and limb bed probably isn't necessary but I know some of the bowyers do so I figured it wouldn't hurt. I think on some of my bows it makes them quieter.
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Originally posted by Crooked Stic:
McDave I was a diesel tech for 43 years> If I had a dollar for ever bolt or nut I have touched I would be a rich man. I can tell you this about a lubed bolt is much better than a dry one. Your torque reading will be more accurate. Torquing is streching the bolt witch keeps it tight. Lube should make no difference in how tight the bolt stays. If it gets loose it was not torqued in first place or is failing.About a HALF A HEX PAST BOTTOMED OUT IS ALL YOU NEED ON YOU LIMB BOLTS. when bow is strung will keep pressure also.
Thanks for the info, Mike. Hope I never get too old to learn from someone who knows more about something than I do :wavey:
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I use string wax or Vaseline on bow bolts and Anti-seize on aluminum broadhead inserts as I have had them locktite after getting wet and hunting all season.
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I will occasionally take the three piece bows down to clean dust or water off the limb pads then lube bolt and alignment pin with a small amount of string wax.
Never thought about using anti-sieze on threads of points, thanks ksbowman.
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Thanks for the thoughts, guys! I'll probably put a bit of beeswax or string wax on my bolts. You guys have answered my concerns about the bolts backing out. I won't over do it!
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Chap stick is the ticket for threads and alignment pins, IMO. It keeps the moisture out, and will help to eliminate any 'tick' you might get when first drawing your bow from pin to limb friction.
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Originally posted by Bill Turner:
Howard Hill Archery recommends and uses a light coat of toilet bowl wax on their take down mechanism. No reason it would not work on limb bolts as well. :campfire:
Huh? By "toilet bowl wax" do you mean the wax from a wax ring (used to seal the bowl to the soil pipe flange)?
That seems quite strange to me. The only time that I usually have such a ring available is when I have pulled the bowl and need to then replace the ring.
I keep a lot of plumbing supplies available, but not a wax ring. But maybe I should. Who knew they actually had other uses! :eek: