Trad Gang
Main Boards => PowWow => Topic started by: oobray on January 02, 2017, 05:29:00 PM
-
Well, I just bought a Bear SuperMag 48" @50#. I only draw 26.5" so it's prob pulling 48ish pounds. After shooting bare shafts (I wanted to shoot 100gr inserts and only shoot full lent arrows) the best grouping I got were with Gold Tip 340s. Seemed stiff but I guess with the 100gr insert and 125gr tip at 32" length it was good. I wasn't able to paper tune but the bare shaft grouped with my fletched arrows out to 18yds and hit just a touch low at 20 Yds. It grouped well enough that I wouldn't hesitate to throw it in my quiver to hunt with. I could see it flying through the air and it seemed just a touch tail high. I didn't get a chance to adjust knock point before it got dark. But if I remember correctly if my only problem is tail high than it's as easy as knock point or my spine is a tad weak. Also, arrow is total about 570 gr. And in my chrono was going about 150fps when measured about 2' in front of arrow. It shoots awesome, I can keep more consistent groups than with my Samick.
Thoughts?
-
Sounds like a good setup to me .
If it works and you like it , your golden .
-
Not surprised about the better groups. Made in USA.
-
I bet it will take raising the nock very little to fix the tail high.
Congrats on the new bow!!
-
Originally posted by Crooked Stic:
Not surprised about the better groups. Made in USA.
I enjoy made in USA stuff as much as the next guy, but where a bow is made is not the only factor for shooting tight groups. I had a Samick Red Stag, that would flat put em together down the range, and cost me lots of replacement arrows and nocks from constant robin hoods. Sorry, but your remark is just not true.
OP- congrats on the great bow!
-
If my BH's are marking with my field points approximately 10 yards beyond my own maximum hunting range, then I am personally comfortable.
Just a personal confidence enhancer.
-
If my BH's are marking with my field points from 8 yards to approximately 10 yards beyond my own maximum effective hunting range, then I am personally comfortable.
Just a personal confidence enhancer.
-
It sounds like you have it figured out.
I shot full length for several years but recently cut a couple of inches off and like it enough that I wished I had done it sooner.
-
Thank you guys. Been doing the Trad thing for three years and I still feel so new, I wanted you guys to let me know if I had any glaring errors in my setup.
I'm shooting full length because I was hoping it would make for easier tuning since I'm new at this. I shot my 3D deer target in half so I don't have a BH target, but from the few that I shot at the only price that remains (the hind end) my muzzy 125 trocar 4 blades seemed to shot same as field point. And yes, the trocar and blades are sharpened to shave.
-
I'm pretty close to your setup -- 50# limbs on my Samick, drawn to about 27", Same arrows, full length, but with a 50 gr insert and 200 gr heads. I've bareshafted out to 30 yards & was satisfied with that. I love the small gaps of a slow, heavy arrow.
-
Ok, here's final setup. I was still getting some tail movement in the air so I added weight to the front thinking it was a spine issue. Then I realized I'm an idiot and my knock was moving on each shot. After I fixed that I'm drilling 5" groups at 20yds. Which is some of the best shooting I've ever done. So I decided to keep the Wright for a total arrow of 690gr and I chronographed them at 138fps. According to all the "calculators" I actually have more momentum with this set up than with 100gr less weight and 30fps more. Is 690gr and 137fps adequate? Pretty much all whitetail and hog hunting but I'm trying to get a group together for elk in the fall. Also, not really sure how accurate my chrono is. Should be pretty good if think. At least within 10% or so.
Thoughts?
-
Forgot to add. What I like about this arrow is that it's exactly point of aim at 20yds. Unlike lighter arrows where I have to hold under about to 30yds.
-
That's one of the beauties of shooting longer arrows - it shortens your point-on distance.
-
Nice set up. If you get weird flight don't forget to check your jocks. If they are to tight it will cause funny flight and rob your arrow speed. Put an arrow on and hold it upside down. If you tap it and it stays on it's to tight. Take either sandpaper or the nock tuning tool to it and you'll be good. Sounds like your dialed right in. Good luck
-
Thanks I was hoping the arrow wasn't too heavy. But at least according to the calculator numbers this is the best I could get. Going light or heavier seems to yield less momentum and KE. I'll check knock tightness, thanks.
-
Originally posted by crazynate:
Nice set up. If you get weird flight don't forget to check your jocks. If they are to tight it will cause funny flight and rob your arrow speed. Put an arrow on and hold it upside down. If you tap it and it stays on it's to tight. Take either sandpaper or the nock tuning tool to it and you'll be good. Sounds like your dialed right in. Good luck
Always make sure to check for tight jocks!!! :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:
Bisch