how important is spin testing broadheads? my 100 grain stingers and 50 grain insert fly fine even not spun correctly, however the deltas are all over why is this?
The deltas glue on heads, are they not? Any glue on head should be spin tested to make sure it is true.
The stingers come from the factory already spin tested. If you take them apart, you should spin test them after putting them back together.
Yes, it is important. You should have your heads spinning true.
Bisch
As Bisch said it is important to spin test glue on heads. I've seen videos on Magnus website for when you take them apart for an easy way to get them back together the way they came apart. Have them on a spin tester and put them up next to a card board box and spin a hole in the box that way when you put them back together they should fall into place.
what about delta screw ins?
If the adaptor and broadhead are two separate pieces, they should always be spin tested whether they're joined at the factory (by a person) or later by the archer. Pretty simple and easy to do.
so deltas are good to go?
IMO, all broadheads should be spin checked, but especially those that have been mounted on adapters or tapered shafts. A crooked point is like having bad feathers on the front of the arrow and will absolutely mess with the arrow flight. This is the tool I use to make sure mine are spot on true. Very simple, but works beautifully. Deltas are a great head and mounted true will fly with the best of them.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v450/Fletcher610/PA150109.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Fletcher610/media/PA150109.jpg.html)
where do i check for wobble? i made one similar with nails and the arrow never stayed flat on the surface any suggestions?
If by way of saying "the arrow never stayed flat on the surface" you mean it wobbled between the two set of nails, your problem or one of them is that your shafts are not straight. If so, they will never fly straight irrespective of what broadhead you use.
NH, Lay the shaft in the "V's" with the point at the verticle block. Rotate the shaft slowly and you will be able to see if the point has any alignment issues. You want the point to to stay in exactly the same spot. If it is wobbling, rotate the point 180 deg and make sure it is seated solidly on the taper. If if is still a little off, push the point in the direction it needs to go. I think you are shooting carbons; if shooting woods, make sure your point tapers are true.
yes im shooting carbons, so just pay attention to the point for wobble not near where it screws in to the insert? thanks for all the help guys great bunch of guys on here.
With this tool, yes, watch the point. If you put the point on something and spin the shaft, the wobble will show at the shaft/point junction.
so if point spins on dot good to go? im still trying to figure out this table spinning and spinning in palm method thanks guys
Can the palm or table spinning as use the tool.
Yes, tip of point/broadhead spins on a dot your good.
I religiously spin test BUT I do have some original bear woodies with Bear greenies and they all have a slight wobble,,,, well absolutely NO difference in accuracy at 18-20yds to my block target.
ordered screw in woodsmans years ago when they first came out they all wobbled and I couldn't change it cause they where epoxied,,, shot right with my field points.....
those may of been flukes in a good way cause I still pay close attention to the wobble and spine tests as shown above
I haven't found spinning true to be important all other things aside...nevertheless I am pretty religious about doing it.
The deltas are likely all over the place due to the fact they are right wider and harder to tune head. I have found that and he brought head wider than an inch and an eighth gets tough to tune really quick
QuoteOriginally posted by Michael Arnette:
I haven't found spinning true to be important all other things aside...nevertheless I am pretty religious about doing it.
The deltas are likely all over the place due to the fact they are right wider and harder to tune head. I have found that and he brought head wider than an inch and an eighth gets tough to tune really quick
Really??? I have never had an issue with my 1.5" wide GK XL heads. If I am tuned with a field point, I can put one of the GK heads on, and it always flies perfect and right on target.
Bisch
im having a hard time and dont understand whats going on with these heads, bareshafts fly good with seame weight should shoot the same
Are your broadheads oriented horizontal (with bow held vertical)?
i have tried it all ways, all thse problems starting when i i went to an anchor point past the corner of my mouth which is earlobe pocket in jaw, i started getting string slap and all that stuff, i just put a 200 grain vpa on at my old corner of mouth anchor and it goes where i look, does this make sense? is it possible i was throwing everything out of alignment before by drawing past my old anchor? i put a new zwickey on even with almost all of one fletcing on arrow almost gone and it flies good
now that you said that I think you might be holding the grip wrong, you where throwing everything out of alignment,,,, do you see any weird strike plate wear on your bow that wasn't there before?
try drawing the string back and turning your bow hand just a little as if you had a dirt bike with a throttle on the left you want to be giving it some more gas..
I'm wondering if your dinging the shaft with the back of the riser at release usually a knock sound is heard.
when I first start drawing back I hold the grip loose and it aligns perfect because of the pressure form drawing,, then depending on the bow I go to the grip I like for that bow.