I'm a left handed shooter, and my arrows have always impacted slightly right of my point of aim, despite careful bareshaft tuning. I am able to compensate for this, but I'd prefer my arrows to fly to where I'm looking. My misses are almost slightly high and right. I'm shooting a left handed ACS CX 55@28 with a velcro strike plate. How should I alter my strike plate to bring my arrow to the left? Thanks for your suggestions.
make the strike plate thinner and softer.
try a more solid striker plate like leather if that dosent work build it out with double sided carpet tape piece by piece. try decreasing point weight as well
Ok, What is softer and thinner than velcro?
Won't building out take it further right for a lefty?
that happens to me when my ring finger comes into play too much. Every time. i try to concentrate on using mainly the 1st and middle finger and let the ring finger just ride along.
QuoteOriginally posted by FullQuiver:
Ok, What is softer and thinner than velcro?
Won't building out take it further right for a lefty?
A Martin rug rest is softer than Velcro. It doesn't necessarily have to be thinner, as the force of the arrow will compress it anyway when the arrow is shot. If you're impacting high, you should also use a softer material for your rest. I bought my last supply of Martin rug rests from Ye Olde Archery shop. Hopefully they still have some. I generally use Martin rug rests for both strike plates and rests, depending on the bow.
Per Rick's method of tuning, you can also lower your POI by raising your nock point, instead or in addition to using a softer rest.
I never bare shaft....but you arrows could be stiff.....stiff arrows always spit left for me....or if I don't get full extention and full draw. (solved all that years ago by incorporating a double anchor)
I would double check my spine with a heavier head or lighter spined arrow.....just to make sure
A Martin side plate....
Martin side plate and rest on the way. I have messed around plenty with different point weights and shafts. I'm certain its something in my form. I will also try reducing the pressure on my ring finger.
Sent 2 days with Rick last month and the martin rest worked great for me.
What spine arrows are you shooting including lengths and point weight?
Is 28 your actual draw length?
You may also try a slight brace height adjustment to bring impact inline
I battle the same exact thing. The Martin side plate materials works good, but it wears out too quickly for me. Black Widow sells the perfect material for me. It looks like velcro, but it much softer. It brings my arrows dead center. I can't shoot a bow correctly without it.
Go to their site, and look up item # 320. They call it "recurve shelf rest and side plate" material.
Try it, I can almost guarantee it will move your arrows over. If it doesn't, let me know and I will buy it from you.
I'm drawing 27.5". My arrows are CE Heritage 250s with 125 on the front and 29.75" in length. I've bareshafted and paper tuned. I think my arrows are flying pretty good. Also, I have had this tendency to shoot slightly right and high for many years and with different bows. I'm thinking maybe I ought to adapt the equipment to me rather than adapting to the equipment.
Take about 3-4 twist up in your string. It will just take a couple sec. and see how it does.
arrows are stiff , try more point weight
I also use the BW "shelf and side plate" material. Mostly for my LB but I use small pieces on my brush rests for adjusting arrow flight like said above. That material lasts a long time. Spare pieces are easy to carry. Been happy with product for a long time.
Before you buy new materials I'd try any longer shafts you haven't cut, they may spine fine. If not, try a heavier point 175gr. and up.
Sounds like a form issue.
Missing left for a right handed shooter or right for a left handed shooter can result from a number of different form issues of which I am still dealing with.
I know this is not what you want to hear but with 4" feathers or greater on your arrows your arrows should be grouping together no matter your point weight or even with mismatched spined arrows and should be flying directly towards where you are aiming.
Terry how do you tune your arrows?
Messed around with point weight a little.
125 grain: Bareshaft flies perfectly staight and impacts with fletched. This is my current set up center of group is about 2" right at 20yds.
150 grain: Bareshaft flies slightly but noticeably nock right but the right error is corrected. If the new rug doesn't correct the problem when it arrives, I will be adding 25 grain brass weights to my inserts. Although, I'd rather have perfect bareshaft flight and hits where looking, if i can get it.
175 grain: Bareshaft has a very pronounced nock right in flight. Fletched shafts impact ok, but are a little more sensitive to release errors.
"Sounds like a form issue"
Yep. that's true. The arrows go where I want when I work at it. But if after a decade of shooting traditional bows I'm still wearing a hole in the target that is slightly right of center, maybe I should make a change to my equipment. I don't know. I got the idea from watching a Rick Welch video. He says "set your bow up to hit where your looking." Sounds like a wise idea to me, and the man certainly has the authority to give archery advice. I think its worth a try. Changing strikeplates is certainly not going to make me any worse.
All that building out your sideplate will do is weaken the spine causing your bareshafts to go out of tune and you are losing arrow efficiency since your arrow will go through more paradox as well.
If it works it works though, good luck with the tuning.
Good topic, would like to know where a person can get Martin side plate and rests? Thanks
Martin rug rests and side plates can be obtained from Ye Olde Archery Shop. I would order several of each if I were you, as I have the feeling they're not going to be available forever. If the adhesive provided gets old or wears out, double sided carpet tape works fine as a replacement.
Scot, check out my thread " side plate tuning to hit where you look" on the shooters form forum. This adjustment will very likely work for you.
One thing I did was take my beard trimmer and gave my Velcro a trim. Still soft but there is less material to bump the arrow out now. Not really sure if it helped, I did this after my tuning. I was almost there bareshaft and tried this after the I fletched my arrows.
Hope it helps.
-Jeremy :coffee:
Thanks for the info.
I battle with this too. A few things in my form help.
Bow arm slightly bent with elbow facing out and not towards the ground.
Making sure my wrist stays straight during follow through with a low wrist it's easy to have it break to the side.
Keep anchor constantly close to face. If your anchor varies even slightly off you face you will through arrows off to bow arm side. Keep arrow in line under your aiming eye.
Check out Jimmy Blackmons videos on you tube. He demonstrates and,explains it very well.