I am wondering what on a bow determines your nock height?
Tiller? form?
what is the highest nocking height you have ever had?
Tuning!
Tuning determines my nock height. I paper tune, and when I have zero up and down in the tear, my nock height is correct.
Most every bow I own is between 5/8" and 3/4", with most at 3/4".
Bisch
The relationship to arrow rest or shelf. Best way is do a paper test, to see if arrow leaves bow tail high or low. Move nocking point accordingly.
Arrow flight determines proper nock height. Especially bare shafting.
Your release, shaft spine, head weight, brace height can all require it to be somewhere else on the string than the next archer's choice.
Probably lots of things determine nick height. But tuning identifies it.
I obviously worded that improperly. Not what determines yours. But what determines what it will be? Individual form or the tiller of the bow?
May be a very vague question..
It's individual form AND the tiller of the bow. You may vertically torque the string (and thus the limbs) one way or the other, and the limbs may be in balance/correct tiller, or not. Adjusting the nocking point brings them all in line.
With skinny carbon arrows, about 9/16 works for me on most bows. Never have had to go under a half inch or higher than 11/16. Split finger release.
Agree with Orion, plus where you put pressure on the grip will effect nock point position. ie high wrist or heeling the bow.
Tuning to your release and form.
Arrow flight. I just watch the arrow in flight and make small adjustments based on that. When the arrow fly's good I'm done. I don't fool with that paper tuning business. I leave stuff like that to the wheelie guys.
QuoteOriginally posted by Sawpilot 75:
Arrow flight. I just watch the arrow in flight and make small adjustments based on that. When the arrow fly's good I'm done. I don't fool with that paper tuning business. I leave stuff like that to the wheelie guys.
Well, I dang sure am not a wheelie guy, but paper tuning gets my nock point exactly where it needs to be, not where I guess it needs to be!
Bisch
Both. A bow tillered for split, shot 3 under, will generally result in a nock point 1/8" or so higher than if the bow were tillered for 3 under. People will disagree on this, and it is hard to prove, since individual bows are unique. However, this has been my experience.
Form wise, when I took pressure off my ring finger and increased pressure on my index finger, my nock point dropped about 1/8".
Everything.
Bow design, how its tillered, string used, release style, spine of arrow, weight of point and on and on.
QuoteOriginally posted by KentuckyTJ:
Everything.
Bow design, how its tillered, string used, release style, spine of arrow, weight of point and on and on.
Tj,
very interesting you threw in "weight of point". I have tried to experiment with some heavier tips(250-300) grains and I have definitely noticed a nose dive with those arrows. I never correlated the two. What do you typically have to do with heavier tips?
QuoteOriginally posted by Bisch:
QuoteOriginally posted by Sawpilot 75:
Arrow flight. I just watch the arrow in flight and make small adjustments based on that. When the arrow fly's good I'm done. I don't fool with that paper tuning business. I leave stuff like that to the wheelie guys.
Well, I dang sure am not a wheelie guy, but paper tuning gets my nock point exactly where it needs to be, not where I guess it needs to be!
Bisch [/b]
Bisch,
Sorry.. That sounded wrong. I just never had a need to do that with wood. For me just eyeballing it has worked fine.