Guys,
Been a very long time since I've posted and i apologize. Funny how you get so busy with life sometimes. Anyways this summer i visited the boys in Nixa and placed an order for a PSA (will post pics when i get a minute). She arrived last week 57# @ 28 inches. I'm probably pulling 27". I want to continue to shoot easton arrows (old school gamegetters) but i can't decide on a shaft. I mainly hunt with zwickey deltas with steel inserts making the Brodhead about 240 gr. I had a bunch of 2219s but after bare shafting they seemed way too stiff. I moved on to 2216 an once again too stiff. Tried 2117 too stiff. All nock right. I gave 2215 a shot an got good flight, but this was my lightest arrow at about 560 grains. And a ton of weight up front. I guess what I'm asking is it okay to have that much weight up front on that 2215. If it's not an issue I'll order more 2215 from the auction site an go hunting. But wanted thoughts first. Thanks guys, btw it feels good to be back on tradgang!
Many people like a high weight forward arrow and if it is doing what you want , don't see what's wrong with it .
I've shot 2117's cut about 31 with 190gr points.
Good flight, bad trajectory. I bet the FOC was above 10% for sure. They flew pretty decent.
I'm no arrow expert but I believe aluminum does better in the 10 to 15% FOC range since aluminum does not recover as fast as carbon arrows do.
Graps advice is the best though... :)
To stiff you say, I would have thought with all that weight up front those 2117's, would have been weak. But if they fly go for it.
I don't call that a ton of weight but yes it's fine.If it's tuned,it's tuned.I've tuned aluminums with more weight than that up front.
I too think its hard to imagine a 2117 being too stiff. Both my boys shoot 2117 at around 30"+ with 250 gr and 46 lb bows. Even shorter drawing your bow it has to be around 55lb. With your weight and bow, a 2216 should be close, thouvh it may be somewhat longer then you might want. Make sure your release isnt causing false readings.
I shoot 2215's out of bows from 53# to 64# and they fly great. Mine are 29 1/2 to 30 1/4" and I shoot Zwickey Eskimo and Delta 4 blades. I practice with 145 gr. field points and they fly the same as the broadheads even though the weight is not exactly the same. I use aluminum screw in adapters and are lighter than your steel. If I remember right they are around 30 gr. Since my arrows are longer than yours they would probably spine out about the same.
Some of this has to do with how close to center the riser is cut.
bare shaft testing is the way to go, IMHO. too many variables to simply rely on charts, tho they are a good place to start. Good luck, and have fun testing.
I shoot 2018's, 30", with a 125gr point from my 54lbs @ 28"(my DL) recurve, and they shoot very well. I also have a set of carbons tuned to the bow, but I'm considering getting some 125gr BHs and hunting with these aluminums this year.
2216's would work-
Thanks for the replies fellas. Like I said all of the shafts flew nock right with the same weight up front (225 grn. field point) except for the 2215. I cut them down to 28.5" and they flew like darts. Correct me if I'm wrong but the only thing I could do with the stiffer shafts (ex. 2216, 2117s) would be to add more weight up front, and I honestly don't know how I could get more weight in a Delta than 240 grn. I will shoot more and post results.
You are right,you would need to add more up front weight.There are ways to do it but you might not like the overall arrow weigh and it sounds like you are about perfect where you are.Don't worry what tunes for someone else.
You could also leave them longer, and see if they fly better.
buckeye, give the 2020's a try, slightly weaker than the 2215 but about 80gr heavier to start.
Shick
X2 on the "leave them longer" idea. Is that a possibility? More length also means more weight.
Leaving them longer is definitely an option. If they were flying correctly then I would certainly do this. But they are already at 31" and still showing too stiff. And besides I'm not a huge fan of having 2 or 3 inches of arrow sticking off the end of my shelf, or being in my quiver for that matter.
One more question for you guys and this may be a dumb question. But I have some easton camo hunters and easton gamegetters that say LITE on them. For example I have camo hunters that read 2216 LITE or 2215 LITE. However, on the other hand I have easton legacy and easton eagle shafts of the same spine and they do not read LITE. They just read easton legacy 2216 or easton eagle 2215. Is there a difference that I should be aware of between the LITES and the others?
Bob, there is no difference.
Try a 28" 2016 with 125 or 150 gr heads.
2018's is what I use.
56lbs thunder stick recurve and from a 53lbs Great Nothern Ghost recurve.
2020s should work about perfect with a little tuning. The "lite" were usually on the .016 and thinner walled shafts. As easton dropped alot of arrow sizes they dropped the "lite" marking......like the 2117 and 2215 are really close in spine but 2215 is about 40gr lighter............
QuoteOriginally posted by MCS:
Try a 28" 2016 with 125 or 150 gr heads.
My suggestion as well. I love 2016s.
Thanks guys, If I can find some of the other shaft sizes to try I will. The problem is not many archery shops around here carry aluminum and if they do the selection is minimal. The 2215 have been my closest as of now I purchased 15 shafts for 30 bucks so I will fletch some up and give them a shot.
Guys I'm sorry for beating a dead horse about this shaft question but can anyone tell me why 2215 gamegetters accept a larger index nock (11/32) compared to the 2215 camo hunters which accept my 5/16 index nocks? Is there a difference between the shafts that i should be aware of?
buckeye', The original XX75 shafts(green camo's and autumn orange) had a step-down taper at the nock end(not 2018's) and the gamegetters did not; 22's took a 5/16 and the 20's took a 9/32 nock. 19's and 21's pretty much your choice on bigger or smaller. I believe now the legacy's, gamegetters, and gamegetter II's come with out this step-down taper. Hope this helps. If you need to try a few sizes, let me know what you need and I will ship them out to you.
Shick
Shick, I appreciate that. Your answer helps a bunch. I think I've got it narrowed down to the 2215s so i went ahead and purchased some of the gamegetter II and camo hunters both with the swaged nock ends. But when i went to fletch some up i noticed the shafts were wanting different nocks and couldn't figure out why. Thanks again.
They just nock right? Or are they hitting right?? I went by the tuning tutorial on tuff heads website course I am messing with carbons but you might try it???