So with huntin season fast approaching Im wanting a really cheap broadhead that I can put on some flu flu arrows for small game. Ive used judos and 357 casings and bounced both off of squirrels. I even knocked a squirrel from a limb once atleast 30' up with a judo it hit the ground running and went back up the tree cussing me the whole way. I know when you hit small game with a blunt it has to be breaking bones but broken bones dont equal quick kills and i dont like just wounding animals. Im thinking I need something sharp. Again the cheaper the better. Dont really care 2,3,4 blade or weight. Thanks
I bought a boat load of Bodkin 2nds directly from them a few years ago now. Not sure if they still sell them or not, but that is exactly why I bought them..
Someone had bodkins not long ago.I bought some with him but cannot remember his name or business that what 66 years will do to you.Found it Tracy Dunn Zipper Manuf. 16698 Edgington Rd.
Williamsburg Oh.45176-6531 Check him out a sponser here Kip
dunn
Bodkins make great small game heads and they can be gotten pretty cheap.
ChuckC
hills hornet from the auction site. about .75 each
Do a search online. There are some Chinese glueons that I've seen that would probably work well for squirrels and are pretty cheap. They had a sort of medieval look, similar to a bodkin, but with more of a "broadhead" shape.
Also, Thunder Valley Archery has a small game head that combines a blunt with one of the bleeder blades used on the Magnus Classics.
Well I found some of those midieval lookin points and the ones I found atleast are aluminum! Can you believe that? Crazy what the Chinese will produce. Anyway I'll keep looking. I did run across a pretty good deal on some zwickey deltas. Been wanting to try them out for awhile. Anyone run across anything shoot me a pm. Thanks
You can make a saw cut into your 357 blunts and epoxy in a bear or magnus bleeder blade.
Bodkins and ribteks are the cheapest factory heads i can think of.
I use Ace Super Express 200s for all my small game, turkeys, and often on broadhead courses. Not a bad price for an American made head, and it's the easiest one to sharpen to a hair popping edge for me personally.
Good luck with whatever you decide on!
Thom
I'm hunting with Mowoc Dot broadheads made in 1960 and stored since in Larry Whiffen's garage. I have about 40 I paid around $1.75 each delivered. (His son, Larry Whiffen Jr., sells them in lots on ****).
For small game I bought up a BUNCH of HiPrecision three-blade 125 gr heads I paid around $1.50 for.
V I archer I've thought about doing this honestly. Im a machinist and at work when a band saw blade gets tore up it just gets thrown in the steel scrap. A person could make a lot of "bleeder" blades from one blade. That maybe my best bet. I've looked at the thunder valley heads but if a person used those and lost all the small game arrows I do in a season they'd go broke lol. I saw 14 bear razorheads on an auction site for bout a $ a piece but it seems like a shame to loose a dozen or more pieces of history every year
someone beat me too it but ribteks where the cheapest I ever heard of that are tough for any type of big game hunting.
Dollar for Dollar... Zwickey Eskimos!!!!! I buy them brand new, use them for Deer Hunting, then later when they've been sharpened many times & are all beat up... For Small Game heads!!! I have some that are MANY years old! They have more than paid for themselves...
Ive always just used field points with small game stoppers. Its devastating.
I have a bunch of 5/16 2 blades (new) from the 60's that were on the cheaper side. If you can use 5/16 I will send you some. You just have to "pay it forward" one day.
Don't like to shoot broadheads unless their on the ground! An early season here, which opens in 2 days, shooting in the trees.
Personally prefer and have killed many, with glue on field points, and piece of banding super glued in.
Just flatten the tip some, file or grinder. Then slot and glue in the banding.
Also, shot some with just field points, 160grain glue on.
Seems the larger surface area over the screw ins penetrates and creates enough blunt force damage!
And fox squirrel are as tough as an ole
tom cat!
A year or so ago, I bought a dozen MA-3's on the auction site. I can't remember exactly what I paid, but it wasn't much. You could also search for some Bodkins as well. Tough head.
I've had two blue grouse fly off with my arrow sticking out of them on both sides using plain field points. I recovered one but one was never found.
I too am reluctant to shoot broadheads into trees. They may stick there and be impossible to recover. Worse yet, as happened to me, I shot at a blue grouse on a limb straight above me in a big cottonwood tree. Perfect shot! But, the arrow kept right on going and I suddenly realized that it was going to come down eventually. I jammed myself up against the trunk of that cottonwood and hugged it till I heard the arrow stick in the ground about 20 feet away. :scared:
Now, if I'm going to use field points, I do a small modification as follows.
Get some smallish to mediumish finishing nails and a drill just a hair larger in diameter. With the point mounted on the arrow, drill a hole straight across and through. Insert the finishing nail and cut it off with about a 3/8" sticking out on each side. Bend each side back just enough to keep it from falling out of the hole.
It works on glue ons and with inserts or screw ins. If you are going to do it with inserts, use the aluminum ones for ease of drilling.
Tried, true and field tested on grouse, squirrel and bunnies.
I like the idea of a piece of banding or saw blade in a field point because I could use the tig welder at work to put a few tacks on it to hold it. Other than glue wasn't sure how to hold the blade in a 357 blunt. I'll tinker with the field point idea and if I can figure out how to post pictures I'll show you all what I've come up with
Mitch, I have only used super glue and the 2part epoxies. The banding will snap off on a hard hit. Easy to take a lighter to the super glue and replace. I carry a few extra pieces and a tube of glue.
Bodkins and MA3 will work, and I have both, but you limit the shots you take to the ground or stick a bunch in trees.
Grouse and squirrels, don't compare.
I have been hunting fox squirrels since 1981, with bow,and have used about every point possible.
Well maybe I'll go straight for the band saw blade then. Might be a bit more durable. Here in sw MO we got grey and red squirrels. I'm not sure what the fox squirrels are but I know the big reds we have here are tough as nails. Hardest critter I ever skinned. I grew up hunting them and enjoy it as much as deer hunting. I believe any animal we hunt whether it be squirrels or moose all deserve a quick death. That's why I started this discussion
I did something similar with field points and pieces of hacksaw blade. They were for grandkids were shooting light bows. They were effective on bunnies. The super glue would be the way to go. I used JB weld and once they came apart they were done for the day.
PDP Game Nabber...
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=print_topic;f=1;t=131387
That's one of the heads I have used over the years. It is a good one, but ain't cheap!
They also claim not to stick in a tree, I stuck one about 20 feet up in a Walnut!
But killed quite a few with them, too!