Generally I am a three-blade guy, but I picked up some single bevel Grizzly broad heads to try out this season. After giving them a good workout with the KME sharpener they were still not as razor sharp as I usually get my 3-blade broadheads.
After doing a little research on stropping knives, I discovered an item that is inexpensive, and strops a blade to razor sharpness in very little time. It is a sheet of 3-M Trizact in 3000 grit. 20 light strokes on the beveled side of an already sharpened Grizzly brings the edge to razor sharpness. I picked it up at an auto parts store.
I thought that sharing this with Trad Gang would be a good idea.
(http://i1246.photobucket.com/albums/gg611/smokinjoepix/IMG_1315_zpsgsrlradm.jpg) (http://s1246.photobucket.com/user/smokinjoepix/media/IMG_1315_zpsgsrlradm.jpg.html)
That stuff should work great.I've been doing all my broadhead sharpening with wet or dry sandpaper in a variety of grits,up to 2000 and then stropping on cardboard.
Even Ron at KME has recommended wet/dry auto body sandpaper on super hard heads...
You get the new Griz marketed by Bill Dunn or the older stock? They were blessed hard...
My old KME diamond wouldn't phase them... the new Diamonds Ron had/has (?) kicked their butt
Sweet, now if season would just come on you could give it the real test! :bigsmyl:
thanks for sharing!
The factory grind on the heads was not straight or consistent. So I worked them into general shape with a KME and Emory cloth from coarse down to fine. Then time on a fine diamond stone. Then the 3000 grit.
This 3000 grit is backed with thin foam so it should hold up better than paper. And, like I said, it works like a strop and results in a razor edge.
Thank you for the info. My grizzlies are sharp, but making them sharper can only help.
Good idea - thanks - always on the lookout for new ways/ideas. wouldnt be an issue to pack a sheet of that in with ya on a hunt.
Thank you Joe for the great tip. My new Cutthroat broadheads felt very sharp using my KME broadhead sharpener so I was dubious about my ability to get them any sharper. I picked up some 3000 grit auto sand paper from the local auto supply store and gave your recommendation a try. I used my KME sharpener jig to keep my single bevel at the correct angle and ran it across the 3000 grit paper 40 light strokes. I was amazed to find that the blade took on even more of a mirror finish and is approaching scalpel sharpness. It works better and faster than my leather strop with jewelers rouge.
Ron told me that leather and rouge tends to create like a "wave" ahead of the bevel as you strop... he recommended just corrugated cardboard...
But the 3000 grit should remove any/all burrs that would be present!
Are you used the broadhead sharpener or knife?
What is the bevel angle on a grizzled?
I knew a couple guys who wet sanded their broadheads under the faucet and could shave with them afterwards.
I know they glued the sandpaper to paint stirrers and told me if they put too much pressure the sticks would break,,, wonder if the paper above would work on tuskers I have which dulled my favorite file.
QuoteOriginally posted by Gilky:
What is the bevel angle on a grizzled?
Gilky,it is 25.
Nice! I get my broadheads very sharp with the KME but my leather strop wasn't doing the final touch with the white compound I have. I think it was to fine to take anything off. I'm going to try this to get the final touch.
Here is one that was taken to 2000 grit.
(http://i.imgur.com/U8Owz3x.jpg)
What method do you all use to get your 3 blade heads like the Woodsman, razor sharp? I've tried a file, a bench stone and sandpaper. I have found the file gets them the sharpest for me and they don't get as sharp as they need to be which is why I am asking. I am pretty much retarded when it comes to sharpening anything unless I can pass the edge through one of those gizmos that have the angled hones in them.
I need a foolproof way to get the Woodsman heads razor, hair popping sharp. I'll try this with my Bear Greenies too. I use a file on them as well, but this could certainly help.
Fill us (me) in fellas......I need the help.
Larry
:thumbsup:
Nala,
On the three blade heads there are several good videos out there in Internet land. I do highly recommend some kind of diamond honing gear, I prefer a three sided jewelstik. I start the heads on a ten inch single cut mill file, and do three heavy strokes per side running in both directions. This evens up all your bevels. Some guys use a sharpie to make sure they're removing even amounts of material, it's optional in my opinion. After that I move to the jewel stick and do roughly 30 strokes per side on course through medium, then hone on fine (1200 grit) as long as I need to. Generally the longer you spend honing the sharper they will get. I picked up some 3000 grit paper yesterday and finished on that and the results were staggering. You can literally read a newspaper on the reflection of your bevels. I have also stopped on leather, denim, canvas and cardboard, all with good results.
Just remember to hone with light pressure. I think most people that struggle with three blades heads are simply doing too much. Hope this helps.
Jake
for three blade heads you can actually use sandpaper from box to final honing. Just mount the sandpaper on 2 x 4 board and work up from 60-100 grit to 3000 grit for final honing.
THREE BLADE METHOD.....
For three-blade broad heads I do the following:
First I go buy a "chain saw raker file" -- Oregon is a very good brand. Then I put a handle on the file.
I lay the file across the flats of two blades at a time and file pretty hard until I can feel the file "bite" into the metal for the full length. I will give each blade edge pair about 20 hard strokes this way, turning to the next pair of blades after 20 hard strokes.
Next I will count down by twos, in other words 18 strokes per pair of blades, then 16, then 14 -- still filing hard -- until I get to 10.
I then count down by ones with lighter strokes -- in other words 10, then 9, then 8 -- until I get to 6.
Then I really lighten up on the strokes and continue the count down method. Light strokes polish the blade edges.
When I get to one, I turn the blades after each stroke and give the head 21 very light strokes -- remember very light.
Next I turn the raker file to its side - the side of a raker file has no teeth, and acts like a butcher's steel -- and I give each pair of blades a stroke with the butcher's steel side of the raker file, turning to two new blade edges after each stroke. I give the blade about 20-30 light strokes this way
With the above method I can get a new woodsman or snuffer razor sharp in 5 minutes or so.
To maintain the edge, start again at about the 6 stroke level with the file and continue with file strokes and then file edge strokes through the countdown.
One tool, shaving sharpness -- easy.
Don't forget to put a handle on your file to keep from cutting yourself.
Just wanna add something here. I'm a machinist and the single biggest reason a file gets dull is because it only cuts one direction. Dragging anything from the tang to the tip only serves to flatten the teeth down
QuoteOriginally posted by Mitch Edwards:
Just wanna add something here. I'm a machinist and the single biggest reason a file gets dull is because it only cuts one direction. Dragging anything from the tang to the tip only serves to flatten the teeth down
thats one of my problems,,, but is it me or do files only come in one direction,, you think you could flip it over to file the other side of the blade going in the opposite directions.
Tajue17:
Always push a file away from the file's handle -- no matter which side is up.
So, if the file is like this.....
handle file
:=====:///////////////////////
You should push it >>>>>-------------> this-a-way
Make sense?
I use nothing but a 8" file and a leather belt with polishing compound. I put my broadheads on a short piece of arrow and hold them in a small vice I have that will swivel in about any direction. As I believe was mentioned earlier Ill black out the bevel with marker to see where I am at. One thing I may do differently than some is I make sure I get a nasty bur rolled over and leave it for stropping. Once the bur is stropped off the edge is sharper than I can get it any other way. Ive got diamond stones natural stones and ceramics and have spent hours trying to get broadheads what I would call sharp. The file method seems to be best for me. I dont shoot 3 blades but have sharpened them for friends and I do it like everyone else does really.
Last year i bought a KME broadhead sharpener because I had heard Nothing but great things about them. Now it sits in the drawer. Again I spent hours with it on a file stones paper you name it and I was just never able to get them as sharp as I can by hand with a file. Maybe Im KME ignorant but I know what works and for me and I think Ill stick with it.